Strater

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aleebee156

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Question: Need a new starter, got one from napa, pulled the old one and its bigger aka direct drive, and the new part is smaller gear reduction. I put the new gear reduction in anyways. Bolts lined up, dimensions all checked out, i didn't need different length bolts they were perfect. Still not starting. I know the starting issue can be anything, but I just want to make sure I dont need to go back and replace the starter with a direct drive starter... The gear reduction starter should work right??
 

east302

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Yes, the gear reduction starter would be fine so it sounds like you have another issue.

Is it cranking (and not starting) or not even trying to turn over (you turn the key and nothing happens)?


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aleebee156

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It was cranking very slow, brand new batter two weeks ago. Alternator good. I got it running now tho. I believe it was the cap and rotor. But i did all the plugs, cap/rotor, and starter relay at the same time, so it could have been any of that. But I think cap/rotor. Sometimes I forget to do the easy cheap stuff first, I go straight to a major problem, need to get over that. Fix the easy common stuff first. Im betting if I did cap/rotor out the gate it wouldn't have needed a starter. Eventually it would have tho, and Im real happy with that gear reduction starter. That thing really cranks it over fast and strong, Very pleased with it. New starter, battery, plugs, cap/rotor, relay and its starting great. Now onto the rest of the issues that need fixing. Next on the list is oil cooler lines and radiator...
 

Schurkey

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pulled the old one and its bigger aka direct drive, and the new part is smaller gear reduction. I put the new gear reduction in anyways. Bolts lined up, dimensions all checked out, i didn't need different length bolts they were perfect. Still not starting. I know the starting issue can be anything, but I just want to make sure I dont need to go back and replace the starter with a direct drive starter... The gear reduction starter should work right??
There's a REALLY good chance that you used incorrect bolts. GM-style gear reduction starters need metric-shank bolts, but the block has SAE threads.

The bolts are therefore a hybrid--bigass metric shanks necked-down to 3/8-16 threads.

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It was cranking very slow, brand new batter two weeks ago. Alternator good. I got it running now tho. I believe it was the cap and rotor.
Cap and rotor don't make the engine crank slowly.

Charge battery, retest.
 

aleebee156

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So you're saying there is likely some play between the bolts I used and the bolt holes in the starter, I could see that. These below yes? If so im gonna pick them up and swap them out, last thing I want is another problem or an issue with the block or whatever due to some cheap bolts I should have replaced. Thank you

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12338064



Because the truck is running and starting good now I didn't get into all the symptoms of it, was more than just cranking slow that was just an easy way to describe it. Full battery charge etc etc and truck is starting great.
 

aleebee156

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Also if you know torque specs for those let me know. I'll look it up too


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If its cranking slowly, it's most likely a current problem. Check your battery,starter cable, and that big fat ground going to the block. And when i say check, i mean check the wire as well not just the connection. look for broken insulation, a swollen cable, and signs of corrosion ( a green whitish powdery substance). Also if the battery checks good, try cranking, then feel the cables to see if they are unusually hot, signs of broken or corroded conductors in the cable, reducing current carrying capability of the cable. Or it could be a loose connection you forgot to tighten.
 

aleebee156

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Thank you. Yea like I said it's starting honestly better than it ever has right now after I put that gear reduction starter in. Battery is brand new etc. it has no issues at the moment. Sounds like I should replace the mounting bolts with the correct ones and I'll be good.


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