Stereo System Help Needed

[Chevy-Art]

Since I have the interior out of the truck I figured I might as well get the speaker and power cables run. This is what I want to go with, 2 mids, 2 tweeters, and 1 8” sub. Nothing that is too crazy. I know very little (nothing) about systems. I just want a nice crisp clear sound. I haven’t decided on what I want to do for the head unit. But I am leaning to a Digital Media Receiver, since I don’t listen to CD’s. I also already have the mids and tweeters. I will post those up later. Now my questions are:
What amp should I get?
What wiring and connectors will I need?
Will I need bass blockers?
Feel free to add anything else that will need. Thanks, Art…

 

[dowsewashere]

Amps depend on what kinda of subs power is require as well as the specs of the rest of your door speakers/ tweeters. 500 watts sounds sufficient.
Wiring also depends on what kind of amp you run, 0 gauge is the best, but expensive. one 8 would probably need like 4-6 gauge wiring to match im assuming a like 500watt amp.

make sure you do this right with your ground to the amp as well as hiding the wire well. TRUST me

 

[sewlow]

Ground wires should be as big as the power wires.
Keep the speaker wires as far away from the power/grounds as possible.
Do the big 3. Upgrade the woven wire grounds on the frame.
You could run 2 amps. One for the mids/tweets, & one mono-block for the sub. Try to match closely the amps' power to the RMS requirements for the speakers/sub.
Install your amps so that you can readily get to them, facing a direction that makes tweeking the controls easy.
If your system's power requirements says that 8g is the size of wire to use for power, use 4g. Less resistance, & if you ever want to upgrade, you don't have to re-wire everything over.
Don't wire everything tightly with too little wire. Use a bit more than you actually need. Once you start installing the rest of the interior, some wiring may have to be moved around a bit, just to clear things.
Get a H/U that has fr., rr., & sub outputs on the back of it. Same reason as above. You may get 'the bug' & want to upgrade with some rear components one day.
Use automotive speaker wire, not household stuff.
Solder & shrink tube all your connections.
Take your time & do it right, the first time.
This just my personal opinions from my experience.
Some other members may be able to add more or better info.

 

[96Z71ECSB]

I run a Sony 55 watt X4 amp with the rear channels bridged into a single Pioneer 12" under the rear seat (extra cab). The box volume (sealed box) is matched to the my sub so it produces very tight, clean, accurate bass.
I used 4 gauge wire for power and ground for the amp. The front channels of the amp power a set of Fosgate component speakers in the doors.
The amp I bought has build in adjustable crossovers. Low pass to the sub, high pass to the Fosgates. Both are crossed over at 80Hz.
Just about all amps, that are sold today, have adjustable crossovers built into them. No bass blockers or low pass filters are needed anymore.
I built the system in my truck to be light on the wallet but heavy in producing accurate sound.
I think it does pretty well.

 

[Chevy-Art]

Here are the speakers I have now. I bought them from a friend, cheap. I even thought about running just these without a sub, but still with an amp.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TGHm2Y1DKcE/p_1086000CS/Infinity-Reference-6000cs.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2060_Infinity-Reference-Series-6000cs-6-1-2.html

 

[96Z71ECSB]

Very good speakers. Infinity are one of the better brands out there. They should sound very clear and accurate.
I would still run a sub and a quality 4 channel amp though. The Infinity's would have a problem reproducing low bass without sounding strained. They would sound much better/clearer crossed over at 80 or 100Hz.
The following are good solid 4 channel amps:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17758_MB-Quart-NAU-460.html
I have an earlier version of this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36645_Sony-XM-GTX6040.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_39679_Cerwin-Vega-VEGA500.4.html
Anyway, you get my drift. Just stick with the name brands.
As far as a sub goes, it depends on what size of an enclosure you can get in your truck.
Most stores, like Crutchfield, will list the recommended enclosure type and internal volume required for a particular sub. They will also list the internal volume of the enclosure that will fit your vehicle.
You just have to match the two.
Based off the truck in your sig, I would go with these:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-Angled-Truck-or-Hatchback-Box-Enclosure.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11097_Pioneer-Shallow-Mount-TS-SW251.html
The sub is designed for truck boxes.

Laters

 

[thered95]

i would run this for the amp. you could run the front off 1 and 2 and the sub off 3 and 4 bridged.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8988_Rockford-Fosgate-Power-T600-4.html

then i would build one of these into the counsole. it is rated ne of the best 8's out there

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=293-657

wire it with 1/0 to the amp them 14 to the speakers and 10 to the sub.