Replacing factory speakers/stereo

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RLC2020

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My '99 2500 Suburban I just picked up recently came with an aftermarket stereo that would not turn on. So, I decided it was a good time to upgrade. I picked up a basic Boss double din unit and a cheap backup camera. Once hooked up, I realized that the drivers side rear speaker in the headliner is blown, and both front woofers sound blown as well. The tweeters up front work alright though. Overall, sound is terrible as is. I ordered a new set of 2 way 4x10 speakers for the rear, but I'm debating on what to do with the front door speakers. Should I keep them component with separate tweeters, or just put a 2 way speaker in place of the woofer? I'm looking for cheap/easy as opposed to perfect sound. If it's a world of difference to go component then I'll do that though.

Also, It seems some of these trucks have a factory amplifier? There was a pink wire in the harness but when I attached the remote wire i hear a click, but the sound doesn't change from the speakers. Not sure if I even have an amp or if it's still hooked up. The previous owner did a good job of butchering the wiring harness.

Any advice would be appreciated. I did order a small powered sub that I'm going to install under the back seat to add a little base to the truck, hopefully that along with new front and rear speakers improves the sound quite a bit.
 

df2x4

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Keeping components in the front with tweeters in the factory locations will be a significant improvement over just adding coaxials and disconnecting the factory tweeters, but will also add some work to the install.

The factory amplifier in Suburbans only runs the speakers in the rear passenger doors, the front 6.5"s and rear 4"x10"s are run directly off of the radio. If you're not powering the factory amp you won't get sound from the rear passenger door speakers unless the previous owner has modified the wiring.
 

RLC2020

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Gotcha, I'll do a little more digging, that could explain why the sound is so terrible. All I hear is treble, I'm guessing the rear doors added a lot to the sound. I'm also assuming my amp is blown since I just hear a click when I power the pink wire. Any other tricks to try to get that going?
 

df2x4

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IMO the click you hear when you provide power to the turn-on lead for the factory amp makes me think it's probably working at least somewhat. I would do some testing to try and confirm if the rear door speakers are still functional and connected to the amp.
 

RLC2020

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I wonder if I should just replace the bad woofers with something like this below and leave the factory tweeters alone, or I might just buy the component speakers, they aren't that much more expensive. Probably makes sense to get the rears working first.

I haven't done car audio in a long time. I'm generally a keep it factory type of guy, but I figure since I'm forced to do this anyway I might as well make it better.
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Trio

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I wonder if I should just replace the bad woofers with something like this below and leave the factory tweeters alone, or I might just buy the component speakers, they aren't that much more expensive. Probably makes sense to get the rears working first.

I haven't done car audio in a long time. I'm generally a keep it factory type of guy, but I figure since I'm forced to do this anyway I might as well make it better.
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I replaced the front with coax speakers with the tweets disconnected, and they sound good along with new 4x10s in the rear headliner. Granted, I am no audiophile. And a Tahoe not a Burb. The most important difference in sound (to my ears) s a new head unit over the factory unit.
 

RLC2020

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Are the rear door speakers just mid range or subwoofers? I don't see a tweeter in there. I'm thinking I'll replace all 4 door speakers with 3 way speakers plus I have the new 3 way 4x10s for the headliner. I'll disregard the factory tweeters as I'll now have 6 in the truck from the new speakers anyway. I'm installing a 10" sub under the rear seat in a low profile box that I can adjust to match the bass to the treble. This should be a much simpler installation and I'll have 6 matching speakers. The only wildcard is whether or not my factory amp for the rear doors will put out similar sound to the other 4 speakers. I'll provide an update once this is all installed to let you guys know how it all works together.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Would that separate amp for the rear door speakers apply to a crew cab as well as a Suburban?
 

95burban

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You could replace all the door speakers with 6.5in skar audio coaxials for $100 off of Amazon and use the factory tweeter….

Or

I used 6.5in Cerwin Vega components in all the doors and 4x10 and put the component tweeters in the factory location
 
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