Starting my body lift, anyone who's done it before I have a few questions
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JAngeli
OBS Enthusiast
You got to watch it doesn't activate the parking brake as it gets tighter and if there's any interference too. That was my problem when I lifted the suspension. I had to take that clip off and there aren't any longer ones that can be used to replace it. So I made my own. And having it adjustable makes it even better.
ChrisAU
War Damn Eagle
Mine on my 92 works just fine thank you very much!
96k1500
Ballin on a budget
Oh I'd be interested to know. I actually didn't even disconnect mine cause after hours of messing with it, it wouldn't even budge. Couldn't get it to disconnect. I just started to lift it and watched it carefully. The cab is lifted and so far it LOOKS okay. It's a little taut but i'm not sure if the parking break is activated or not. If it IS activated I'm going to have to get an angle grinder or something and just cut the housing it's in and slip it out cause that cable is impossible lol.
Ah okay. The car didn't come with tire tools in the cab, there's the little case for it but no tools.AGH
You can grab on to it with a pair of vice grips or channel locks and crank it down if you need to
ridiqls
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IT IS ALMOST DONE..... 80%. Maybe 85%. So the tow hitch didn't need to be removed after all but the spare tire did. I didnt have the tire tool cause the previous owner didn't include it I guess but got the spare tire down and made those two bolts accessible for hand. No impact wrench so took a good 3 hours to get the bed done, finished around 1230am. I had help for the last few hours too.
Basically everything is lifted. I just need to do the following: 1) Add those metal blocks under the bed rails. Didn't want to do them cause it was too loud on the driveway to be clanking at those things. 2) Cut or notch the fan shroud and cry. 3) Figure out whether the parking brake is active. Pray that it is not. 4) Go to a muffler shop or machine shop and get the shifter extension welded. The shifter is maybe 1/2" or 1" short so gotta get it extended 5) Disconnect the steering shaft and install the extension. That or try to pull up on the existing and make it fit. 6) Secure two of the bolts on the bed that just wouldn't go in. 7) Lock-tite the cab bolts. 8) reinstall grill, bumper and headlights
And then I can say I am 100% done. AH
Basically everything is lifted. I just need to do the following: 1) Add those metal blocks under the bed rails. Didn't want to do them cause it was too loud on the driveway to be clanking at those things. 2) Cut or notch the fan shroud and cry. 3) Figure out whether the parking brake is active. Pray that it is not. 4) Go to a muffler shop or machine shop and get the shifter extension welded. The shifter is maybe 1/2" or 1" short so gotta get it extended 5) Disconnect the steering shaft and install the extension. That or try to pull up on the existing and make it fit. 6) Secure two of the bolts on the bed that just wouldn't go in. 7) Lock-tite the cab bolts. 8) reinstall grill, bumper and headlights
And then I can say I am 100% done. AH
If you re grease them every year and put a coating of silicone spray over the exposed peices you won't have that problem......
Sent from somewhere in MN
ridiqls
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Figured out the answer to why Performance Accessories gave me 2 of these smaller blocks:
The 2nd to last bed bolts have a bolt that is facing down that gets in the way of the bigger block so it can't center and therefore cannot be threaded into the bed. I was actually close to grinding it down and then realized that I had these. Thank god. Not sure what the zone offroad kit did for that.
Question: Is there a way to know if the parking brake is activated, even a little bit? The line is taut but still has like 1/2" of slack. I engaged the parking brake and released and it works fine but not sure if it's activated A LITTLE. Cause that would be a major safety hazard. Here's the thing I don't get. The piece that they want me to disconnect, the part of the cable doesn't even get taut there. It's all loose there cause it's in the middle. If there should be a place where it needs to be raised up to give it more slack, it should be at the very BEGINNING or the 3rd hole/enclosure cause that one is touching the rim of its enclosure.
Question 2: When you remove the fuel filler hose, how do you stop it from leaking a ton of gasoline? What stops the fuel tank from spewing out or spilling out when you disconnect the fuel filler hose?
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The 2nd to last bed bolts have a bolt that is facing down that gets in the way of the bigger block so it can't center and therefore cannot be threaded into the bed. I was actually close to grinding it down and then realized that I had these. Thank god. Not sure what the zone offroad kit did for that.
Question: Is there a way to know if the parking brake is activated, even a little bit? The line is taut but still has like 1/2" of slack. I engaged the parking brake and released and it works fine but not sure if it's activated A LITTLE. Cause that would be a major safety hazard. Here's the thing I don't get. The piece that they want me to disconnect, the part of the cable doesn't even get taut there. It's all loose there cause it's in the middle. If there should be a place where it needs to be raised up to give it more slack, it should be at the very BEGINNING or the 3rd hole/enclosure cause that one is touching the rim of its enclosure.
Question 2: When you remove the fuel filler hose, how do you stop it from leaking a ton of gasoline? What stops the fuel tank from spewing out or spilling out when you disconnect the fuel filler hose?
Last edited:
ridiqls
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Update:
I need some advice. The steering extension adapter will not fit into the steering column hole. It goes in about half way through and then it gets stuck so I can only see about half of the hole (for the bolt to go through). I tried taking a hammer and blasting it up there and it started to move the actual rod (that it's going INTO) up towards the steering column. Dont want to get it stuck or something. It looks like it's made of steel, should I grind it down? I dont even know if that's an option cause it's a small piece.. maybe take it to a machine shop.
The lift is done. The things i have left is to install the steering extension or try to connect the steering shaft without it. Working on the bumper relocation brackets right now and installing the bumper and grille back. Get the linkage rod extension welded and install it. Extend the fuel filler line.
Two of the bolts in the bed will not go in. One will thread about 1/2 way before it just becomes completely tight and stuck. I tried wiggling the spacer around and coming at it at a different angle and using a different bolt but it's always stuck at 1/2 way. I just left it on half way, what should I do?
The 2nd to last rear bolt on the bed also will not go in. Just will not thread. Other than that, I have the other 6 bolts (so 1 missing from each side) and all 4 metal block things under the bed which I'm going to get welded. Should this be a problem?
Also the lower fan shroud had a little clip that's missing so the left side cannot be screwed in to mount the lower fan shroud. The right side is mounted perfectly. The upper fan shroud will connect to the lower and hold it in place though. Not sure if this will be a problem. If it is where can I get that little clip piece? The end is in sight!
I need some advice. The steering extension adapter will not fit into the steering column hole. It goes in about half way through and then it gets stuck so I can only see about half of the hole (for the bolt to go through). I tried taking a hammer and blasting it up there and it started to move the actual rod (that it's going INTO) up towards the steering column. Dont want to get it stuck or something. It looks like it's made of steel, should I grind it down? I dont even know if that's an option cause it's a small piece.. maybe take it to a machine shop.
The lift is done. The things i have left is to install the steering extension or try to connect the steering shaft without it. Working on the bumper relocation brackets right now and installing the bumper and grille back. Get the linkage rod extension welded and install it. Extend the fuel filler line.
Two of the bolts in the bed will not go in. One will thread about 1/2 way before it just becomes completely tight and stuck. I tried wiggling the spacer around and coming at it at a different angle and using a different bolt but it's always stuck at 1/2 way. I just left it on half way, what should I do?
The 2nd to last rear bolt on the bed also will not go in. Just will not thread. Other than that, I have the other 6 bolts (so 1 missing from each side) and all 4 metal block things under the bed which I'm going to get welded. Should this be a problem?
Also the lower fan shroud had a little clip that's missing so the left side cannot be screwed in to mount the lower fan shroud. The right side is mounted perfectly. The upper fan shroud will connect to the lower and hold it in place though. Not sure if this will be a problem. If it is where can I get that little clip piece? The end is in sight!
ChrisAU
War Damn Eagle
I'd suggest getting new bolts, and lubing the crap out of them with Liquid Wrench of the like.
ridiqls
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Here is the picture of the steering extension piece that just will not fit all the way through.
I just have this left and the fuel filler extension and I'm pretty much done.
A bonus for whoever's interested in doing a body lift in the future..It turns out you CAN flip the rear bumper brackets to raise it. So I saved $100 probably for not buying the rear brackets. You don't have to switch it or anything. Just flip it upside down. You will only have two holes to mount instead of the original 3 (triangle formation) but it's angled up. The rear bumper would have been almost impossible if I didn't have my brother helping me out cause it's really heavy and you have to have it level on one side and also someone has to hold it up so you can get the bolts through the holes and tighten it down.
My brother had to leave so he just helped me level it out and put in one side of the bolts so I can do the other one by myself. It's getting late so I'll be bolting down the other side tomorrow.
Still have two questions 1) does anyone know how to tell if the parking brake is activated? Not sure if my line is activated or not cause I never disconnected it and remounted it. 2) when I disconnect the fuel filler from the main tank, is there something I need to do so gas doesn't spill out everywhere? I just disconnect the entire piping assembly where it meets the tank right? Not disconnect it near the gas cap?
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I just have this left and the fuel filler extension and I'm pretty much done.
A bonus for whoever's interested in doing a body lift in the future..It turns out you CAN flip the rear bumper brackets to raise it. So I saved $100 probably for not buying the rear brackets. You don't have to switch it or anything. Just flip it upside down. You will only have two holes to mount instead of the original 3 (triangle formation) but it's angled up. The rear bumper would have been almost impossible if I didn't have my brother helping me out cause it's really heavy and you have to have it level on one side and also someone has to hold it up so you can get the bolts through the holes and tighten it down.
My brother had to leave so he just helped me level it out and put in one side of the bolts so I can do the other one by myself. It's getting late so I'll be bolting down the other side tomorrow.
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Still have two questions 1) does anyone know how to tell if the parking brake is activated? Not sure if my line is activated or not cause I never disconnected it and remounted it. 2) when I disconnect the fuel filler from the main tank, is there something I need to do so gas doesn't spill out everywhere? I just disconnect the entire piping assembly where it meets the tank right? Not disconnect it near the gas cap?
