starter bendix gremlin

[pichaelsux]

i have a 1992 c1500 4.3l v6 rwd standard

about a month ago, my starter bendix started going (trademark whirr noise when i cycle key/no start) so i replaced the starter and all was great

starting a few days ago, every now and again (mostly after it’s been sitting a while ex. first thing in the morning) i’ll go to cycle the key and i’ll hear the same “bendix not engaging” whirr. truck will typically start on 2nd or 3rd cycle.

i did my best to make sure all connections are tight, and starter is bolted in properly. and i’m going to try to get the battery load tested today (battery only 1yr old) but besides that im at a loss.

does anyone have any insight or ideas?

 

[Schurkey]

Starter makes "siren" noise when the key is turned to "Crank", but the engine does not turn?

Yup, you got a defective starter. This is why they have warranties.

Of course, the warranty doesn't cover the labor to swap 'em. You're just screwed on that.

 

[pichaelsux]

update, took the battery to get load tested, and was putting out 834 cold cranking amps which should be more than enough. i guess next step is to swap the starter again, good thing i kept the receipts

 

[rebelyell]

update, took the battery to get load tested, and was putting out 834 cold cranking amps which should be more than enough. i guess next step is to swap the starter again, good thing i kept the receipts

next time: upgrade that old heavy amp-hog 10MT starter to a modern PG260 Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction starter for a newer truck (e.g. 1998). Integral to any such upgrade is to get the newer bolts as well; the old bolts will fit but you'll never get em to stay tightened in a new-style starter. That retrofit is surprisingly affordable.

 

[pichaelsux]

(hopefully) last update

took out starter, saw that the post on starter that attaches to the positive battery cable would wiggle around like it was slightly broken? that definitely shouldn’t have been like that/ might explain the intermittent bendix issues (slight break in circuit that only happens sometimes)

either way i warrantied it out for a new one, installed it, and trucks back to running mint.

thanks everyone for the help! if this one has issues down the road i’ll definitely look into a gear reduction one

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

(hopefully) last update

took out starter, saw that the post on starter that attaches to the positive battery cable would wiggle around like it was slightly broken? that definitely shouldn’t have been like that/ might explain the intermittent bendix issues (slight break in circuit that only happens sometimes)

either way i warrantied it out for a new one, installed it, and trucks back to running mint.

thanks everyone for the help! if this one has issues down the road i’ll definitely look into a gear reduction one

I have had the smaller terminal on the solenoid (the one that goes to the ignition circuit) be loose on the Burb's starter (before the one that's on it now; I had a hot start issue with it several years ago and that was part of the problem). So it's entirely possible that the big terminal could be loose too.

 

[Schurkey]

Doesn't matter if the terminals are loose. Either the starter solenoid works to pull the starter drive into engagement with the ring gear, or it doesn't.

If the starter motor spins, the solenoid plunger HAS to be in the position that engages the starter drive. And since this is a "rebuilt" starter, the shift fork isn't so worn that the drive doesn't push out far enough to engage.

Therefore, the primary issue is a faulty starter drive one-way clutch, not a "loose" post. The loose post was just gravy on top of the real problem.

 

[pichaelsux]

good call! for ***** and giggles i checked the battery terminals and sure as **** the positive side post that i was using is slightly stripped!

thankfully my battery has both top and side mounts, a simple reroute and we’re good to go!

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Doesn't matter if the terminals are loose. Either the starter solenoid works to pull the starter drive into engagement with the ring gear, or it doesn't.

If the starter motor spins, the solenoid plunger HAS to be in the position that engages the starter drive. And since this is a "rebuilt" starter, the shift fork isn't so worn that the drive doesn't push out far enough to engage.

Therefore, the primary issue is a faulty starter drive one-way clutch, not a "loose" post. The loose post was just gravy on top of the real problem.

One of the problems on my Burb then, was that loose terminal. One of the others was that the starter was grungy and had oil in it, and on the mounting surface. The major issue was a corroded battery cable. Fixed all 3 and no more problems. That starter lasted two more years....
This past November I had a similar problem to OP's on Rawhide. The starter would randomly spin but not kick the Bendix out. Absolutely no predicting where or when it would do it, and then you'd try to start it again, a few minutes later, and it would work exactly like it's supposed to. So after I got my next paycheck, I bought a reman starter and replaced it. Went to the pmgr style, and brand new bolts from Chevrolet dealer. No more issues, sounds different but it always starts!

 

[Schurkey]

The starter would randomly spin but not kick the Bendix out. Absolutely no predicting where or when it would do it, and then you'd try to start it again, a few minutes later, and it would work exactly like it's supposed to.

Common misconception.

If you look at how the starter solenoid is constructed, the starter motor cannot get power--and therefore cannot spin--unless the solenoid plunger is magnetically drawn-in.

And if the solenoid plunger is drawn-in...the starter drive pretty-much HAS to be engaged with the flywheel. Even with the shift-fork worn, the drive will be shoved into the flywheel/flexplate ring gear.

When the starter motor spins, but the engine doesn't crank, it's virtually guaranteed that the starter drive is engaged, but the one-way clutch is slipping.