Rotors and brakes opinions

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Schurkey

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There wasn't a complaint of brake pulsation. The rotors apparently aren't warped. I don't see any scoring of note. So if they measure OK for thickness, remove the rust from the mounting areas, and put 'em right back on. No need to cut them. If they don't measure OK for thickness, or if there's hidden damage I've missed in the photos, then replace 'em. Ideally, the pads will go right back into the same locations they were originally.

I'd be ENORMOUSLY more concerned about the calipers. I don't care how rusted they look on the outside, it the scuzz and corrosion on the piston and square-cut seal that interest me, and that's invisible until they're pulled apart. With that many miles on the calipers, and typical brake-fluid maintenance habits, it's a no-brainer to replace 'em.

JB6 brakes have entirely adequate booster and master cylinder as supplied as original equipment...if they're in good condition. And the rear brakes are similarly superb...if they're in good condition.

Be sure to flush the old fluid thoroughly, including the ABS unit, which will require a scan tool.
 

CruiseLifeB

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So you’re still going to roll with those rotors?
??
I never said I was. initially I asked of the condition, people told me the lip was where the issue lied and they wouldn’t use them. since then the idea of re using them was gone.
That’s when I looked at my
Current budget and figured a couple more hundred wasn’t gonna blow it.
I think I told you or someone else at that point that I budgeted for all new rotors pads calipers and hub assembly.
Someone told me the pads were ok I think that was shurkey, Ive thought about maybe keeping those but like I told someone I can’t remember who the money I save from that would probably go somewhere else
 

Caman96

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I totally understand trying to cut back cost however, safety is first. Can you bring the rotors down to a machine shop and see if they are able to turn them?

I completely agree I’m not rushing cause whatever I do I want it to be the best thing for the truck.
Sure sounded like it, but I guess I misread.
 

CruiseLifeB

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There wasn't a complaint of brake pulsation. The rotors apparently aren't warped. I don't see any scoring of note. So if they measure OK for thickness, remove the rust from the mounting areas, and put 'em right back on. No need to cut them. If they don't measure OK for thickness, or if there's hidden damage I've missed in the photos, then replace 'em. Ideally, the pads will go right back into the same locations they were originally.

I'd be ENORMOUSLY more concerned about the calipers. I don't care how rusted they look on the outside, it the scuzz and corrosion on the piston and square-cut seal that interest me, and that's invisible until they're pulled apart. With that many miles on the calipers, and typical brake-fluid maintenance habits, it's a no-brainer to replace 'em.

JB6 brakes have entirely adequate booster and master cylinder as supplied as original equipment...if they're in good condition. And the rear brakes are similarly superb...if they're in good condition.

Be sure to flush the old fluid thoroughly, including the ABS unit, which will require a scan tool.
The calipers became a concern of mine upon taking them off. The bolts after unscrewed were quite seized not sure I even had to pry it away from the knuckle a bit. So when people were saying the rotors was in rough enough shape to just replace. I considered it might be safer just replacing both rotor annd caliper and the pads as well
 

Schurkey

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Measure, and see.

I would be very reluctant to toss otherwise-usable OEM (?) rotors in favor of the current crop of Chinese knockoffs. Even "experienced" Chinese rotors IN GOOD CONDITION are more trustworthy than new Chinese rotors--the used ones have already been heat-cycled a bazillion times and are therefore less-likely to warp.

But the used rotors have to be de-rusted particularly on the mounting surfaces.
 

CruiseLifeB

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I’d be shocked if those rotors were still in spec.
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I think I finally understand the “lip” affect looking at this picture. The rotors is flattened down where it’s contacted with the pad lower than the outside rim. Is that correct?
 

Schurkey

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Yes. The outside rim is the virgin metal of the rotor, un-worn by the pad. But that lip can be exaggerated by the rust scale that "grows" on it. Even usable rotors will show evidence of that sort of lip, because the rust never gets scrubbed-off by the brake pad.

The visible rust on the braking surface in your photo would be scrubbed-off the next time the brakes were applied. That same rust on the part of the rotor that isn't scrubbed by the pad...continues to grow.

Point is, the bigger the "lip" the less-likely the rotors will measure OK.
 
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