Recreating my highschool truck, the way I always wanted it to be

[Beason]

Some of it is dumb stuff I did, some is ignorance, and some I have no idea.

Had it looking good then decided to try to speed things up and use a power sander. Went right through the paint.

Then I tried some primer on the bare spots. I guess it was bad because it just gummed up the sand paper.

Its better now but I keep getting little spots where the paint raises and wrinkles.

 

[Beason]

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[Drunkcanuk]

Well as long as you are learning something along the way, it isn't a wasted effort. Especially if you pass those learning opportunities on to others....hint hunt!!! Lol
I am hoping to paint my truck next year on my own, with help from a buddy. I'm sure I'll learn alot along the way.
Don't get discouraged.

 

[Beason]

more frustrated really. the makeshift paint booth i made takes up a large area in the workshop, and we just picked up another project that i really need to get started on. I need to get this hood done and moved so i can move on.

 

[KansasOBS]

Randomly came across this while eating some lunch, and don't have a lot of typy typy time, but best bet would probably be to toss that hood on, and run it as is, giving some of that solvent some time to cure off. Your top coat is incompatible with whats underneath it, and the solvents are causing it to wrinkle. Giving it time to cure you might be able to get a topcoat on it later, or go back through and redo it with a sealer, then paint. Or peel it all off. Adding more to it right now will just cause more solvent soak.

 

[johnckhall]

This has happened to me several times on my frame when I rushed things. I’ve found out that if I let the primer fully dry for two to three days and then apply a top coat of frame paint, I don’t get the peel/wrinkling. This is of course for rattle can primer and epoxy frame paint. I’ve found even putting more coats of epoxy paint the next day will cause it too. Light coats the same day are ok, but trying to recoat the next day is failure. It’s aggravating to say the least.

 

[Beason]

i am using these turbo cans of rust-oleum and i think that may be part of the issue. they put out soo much paint that you have to rally be careful or you will go to thick and get runs or this. From what ive read its when the underneath paint is still wet but the top dries. as the underside dries it wrinkles.

It could also be something underneath, like KansasOBS said, but the hood was factory primed, then originally painted by someone else with an auto shop paint diy paint. that was a horrible mistake so it was sanded down and i started over with the spray.

hopefully i can get one final flat coat in tonight and then let it dry while we are doing the holiday stuff. then clear it next week.

 

[FullBlowncustoms]

your rattle can is enamel based or Lacquer.. VERY NICE TRUCK.. At the least go to a Harbor Freight etc... and buy a $35.00 HVLP gun with a 3.0 needle. you cant spray lacquer base over enamel. But you can do visa versa. If you just wanna put a Band-Aid on it? buy satin black vinyl and stripe the hood to cover the flaw. Mine has no flaw, was done on purpose for looks.

 

[FullBlowncustoms]

Here is a photo I found with white truck what yours would look like. with your chrome wheels use a silver vinyl wrap on hood. The first thing anyone notice on nice truck like yours IS that cowl hood.. They really make the looks of the truck.

 

[Erik the Awful]

i am using these turbo cans of rust-oleum

There's your problem. There's a whole thread about the incompatibility of oil-based Rustoleum and urethane-based primers. The pictures look a lot like yours.

Instant orange peel.

So, I was painting the front fascia of my Trans Am. It's made of some kind of hard plastic as opposed to metal, but I don't that made a difference here. The primer laid down fine. The 14 coats (well, maybe 3) of Rustoleum black laid down great. Then, this morning, I sprayed clear and got...

www.gmt400.com

It costs about 3x as much, but you can use rattle cans of 2K urethane and get good results. Since I needed the rear window re-installed on Roscoe, I had to pony up for 2K paint. The glue they use to put in windows is urethane, and I didn't want the rear window popping out. I spend about $150 on paint for the cab, and really I needed another can of gloss black. It's too thin on the top of the roof.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CXPQ814/
www.amazon.com/SprayMax-3680222-Topcoat-Black-Gloss/dp/B0897987KG/

You can see how nicely it laid down on the door frame. The top of the roof would look just as nice if I'd had another can. I did use Rustoleum to refresh the floor pans later.

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