Rebuilt 4L60E HELP!

[94Sierra4x4]

Am I reading this right, he's rebuilding your transmission with used parts?
Trans Service

1 used transmission case
1 used pump stator
1 used reaction gear assembly
1 used reverse clutch drum
3 used - 2 shift solenoids and 1 E P C solenoid


total cost of labor $1009.40
Hard parts & other components $2387.55 - Torque Converter $392 - and this service was done by the previous owner 11/4/08

And if I'm totalling this up right as well... $3800?

 

[94Sierra4x4]

Am I reading this right, he's rebuilding your transmission with used parts?
Trans Service

1 used transmission case
1 used pump stator
1 used reaction gear assembly
1 used reverse clutch drum
3 used - 2 shift solenoids and 1 E P C solenoid


total cost of labor $1009.40
Hard parts & other components $2387.55 - Torque Converter $392 - and this service was done by the previous owner 11/4/08

And if I'm totalling this up right as well... $3800?

Edit: Wait a second - this was 5 years ago?
I've confused myself between a couple of threads....

Edit2: Double post. doh.

 

[Jesse82nc]

Am I reading this right, he's rebuilding your transmission with used parts?
Trans Service

1 used transmission case
1 used pump stator
1 used reaction gear assembly
1 used reverse clutch drum
3 used - 2 shift solenoids and 1 E P C solenoid


total cost of labor $1009.40
Hard parts & other components $2387.55 - Torque Converter $392 - and this service was done by the previous owner 11/4/08

And if I'm totalling this up right as well... $3800?

I didn't catch that. You could buy one built for 800hp for well under that - http://www.maddogtransmissions.com/Level_4_4L60E_4L65E_Transmisson_p/l4 4l60e-fslash-4l65e.htm

And here's a stock rebuilt one for $1300. All new parts inside with new torque converter.

 

[Tavi]

Is that bad that the U joint clunks? or not an issue? how can i identify the cause of slack in my rear end?

I could understand that the high revving is from the tires.. just want to make sure it isnt hurting the transmission or anything - also will it damage or decrease longetivity in the transmission if i put in 4.88 gears front+rear ?

So the Torque converter is ran with Viscous fluid that flows between the transmission that pumps all the way back to the torque converter?

Torque converters are used in Automatic transmissions as oppose to manual transmissions using a mechanical coupler also known as a clutch to engage the gears?.. or what is the operation the torque converter does to help the transmission ?

Im sorry if these are basic questions but all these questions i've had the whole 2 years i've been an owner ship and i could tell you now that im having a lot better understanding - just need clarification as i confuse my self easily sometimes

Sorry for the delay.

Torque converter is attached to the rear of your flexplate. Flexplate takes the place of a flywheel in an automatic transmission setup. The most basic way to describe a torque converter, is two fan blade back to back. One being driven by the engine, sending transmission fluid through the other which is attached to the transmission. It also drives the pump inside the transmission. Viscous is another turn for fluid. Viscous coupler is the technical term for it.

Running 4.88's with your 35s may in fact add longevity. The more numerically higher the rear end is, the less strain is placed on the rest of the drive train. How ever the trade off is fuel mileage. Hence the reason so many people are wondering what the best ratio for them is. Your fuel mileage would be down the drain if you put in 5.56's on stock tires, and aside from extremely high reving, just to get to 40. But there would be little strain on take off.

Hope this clears up some questions. And doesn't make more. Automatic transmissions are sometimes considered a black magic, do to how complicated they are.

 

[justin93]

Sorry for the delay.

Torque converter is attached to the rear of your flexplate. Flexplate takes the place of a flywheel in an automatic transmission setup. The most basic way to describe a torque converter, is two fan blade back to back. One being driven by the engine, sending transmission fluid through the other which is attached to the transmission. It also drives the pump inside the transmission. Viscous is another turn for fluid. Viscous coupler is the technical term for it.

Running 4.88's with your 35s may in fact add longevity. The more numerically higher the rear end is, the less strain is placed on the rest of the drive train. How ever the trade off is fuel mileage. Hence the reason so many people are wondering what the best ratio for them is. Your fuel mileage would be down the drain if you put in 5.56's on stock tires, and aside from extremely high reving, just to get to 40. But there would be little strain on take off.

Hope this clears up some questions. And doesn't make more. Automatic transmissions are sometimes considered a black magic, do to how complicated they are.

Gotcha, so the fan blades i assume would act like a sort of turbine to move the fluid as fast as the engine is turning it ?
essentially it sounds like the flywheel/flexplate or what converts the power from the engine then passes through the transmission..

I have my truck sitting at a close friends 4wd fabrication place that rebuild gear boxes and do all the works. Im replacing my steering shaft (whole nother story lol) and i asked him for a quote for a set of 4.88 gears installed front and rear of course with master install kit and OEM level or better gears.. Any idea of how much this should run around ? from a tow yard that specializes in axles and drive shafts quoted me at 1700$ which i thought was extremely steep and i asked there warranty and it was only 6 months or 10,000 miles i believe.. Im weary of this as thats what i bought my truck for! got quoted 500$ for just the parts and master install though, what should i be looking to spend in labor ?


94Sierra, you are reading correctly! the service was done 5 years ago in november of 2008, the vehicle has 31k miles over what the odo reading was when it was serviced.

More or less are there any parts of the transmission i should pay attention to with my application that might kill the longevity of the transmission ?

i've been babying it to avoid engine/trans issues. Still always end up sitting in my engine bay stuck after work, working on it

just kidding, its therapeutic for me, but the trade off is killing my social life lol!


jesse82nc, Ya i wish the prior owner put a beefed up transmission in it rather than rebuilding the stock one for $3k + ! im unsure how long it'll last but the previous owner was an old timer who was the first owner bought off the lot, had it lifted from factory and used as a barn truck often in low gears. Couldn't tell you the condition of it until i change my gears to see if that will eliminate the transmission rolling over rpms to switch from 1-2, 2-3 under acceleration.

Thanks for you help though

Thanks for clearing up the gears to, did it a good job explaining it i was just stuck on stupid