RCSB C1500 Full Protouring Chassis Build, Twin Turbo LS Swap

[Supercharged111]

You guys (OP) are few and far between. It's always nice to land on a build thread like this where you take the time to share.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Subbed. This is badass.

me 3 or 4, don't stop now!

 

[loudandproud]

• New

Got the cross rails cut out and temporarily placed. The z axis is placed and I'm happy with the level and square of the table.

Ordering the frame rails monday. Then I'll need to save a couple bucks to recoup.

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[RDF1]

1/32" over 15' span? I'd say that's plenty close.

I haven't watched that video so forgive me if you explained it in there.
Are you setting this table up so you can build your frame on it?

Sent from my HiDiNg PlAcE

 

[Supercharged111]

Funny, there's a tube frame pro touring build happening over on the G Body forum as well. He built a table too.

 

[loudandproud]

1/32" over 15' span? I'd say that's plenty close.

I haven't watched that video so forgive me if you explained it in there.
Are you setting this table up so you can build your frame on it?

Sent from my HiDiNg PlAcE

Yessir. The table is going to act as a "ground plane". The frame is set up for a 5" ground clearance, and the frame table will be set at +3" over ground level. That allows be to use 2x2" rectangular tubing and 1x2x3 machinist blocks to set up my various clamping and measurement points. I tend to be very particular with things being "right" so I try to keep everything fixtured before welding it in.

For instance, last night I finished up the passenger side LCA and mounted the crossmember up. With all of the shafts installed and with the LCA's over their correct positions, the center cross member is almost dead straight. I estimate that between all 3 assemblies, their is only about 1/16" of distance between their center line datems. Without the table and lasers, it would be very hard to evaluate stuff like that on the ground.

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[RDF1]

Very nice.
I program and operate CNC stuff ( mill, lathe, laser, waterjet, and plasma) so I'm enjoying your attention to detail.

Sent from my HiDiNg PlAcE

 

[loudandproud]

This is the base frame design. Please excuse some of the missing components (upper 3 link bracket, passenger side coil over mounting tube.)

The frame will be build out to this level and then be a roller. At that point I will probably put the cab on a rotisserie and get it roughed in. I'm going to do cab corners and rockers. They don't have any rust, but 18 year old me did the body work before, so i know they arent "right". Im going to rebuild some flanges and then fit them in better to tighten up my door seam and general fitments.

After the cab is grafted in, I'll mount it and begin the cage work. The cage is HUGE unknown for me right now. I would like to play in the autoX and drag racing game, but build a cage that satisifies both the 8.50 NHRA spec and the multiple different autox/NASA/SCCA rules will be just about impossible.

The cage will be tied into the coilover tubes in the front via a tube linking the dash bar. Then there will be a removable bar crossing in front of the engine to stiffen up the coilover tubes. The rear of the cage will be tied into the down tubes of the 8.50 cage. After that i will triangulate the rest of the chassis with small reinforcement tubes.

It should be VERY rigid.

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[RDF1]

Are you going to be worried about weight? Or just build it strong and light as possible?

Sent from my HiDiNg PlAcE

 

[loudandproud]

Are you going to be worried about weight? Or just build it strong and light as possible?

Sent from my HiDiNg PlAcE

Weight is a concern for sure. I am shooting for as light as possible but in order to run it at our local tracks I am sure I'll need a cage.

Even with the extra tubing i am sure ill be considerable lighter than the factory chassis and suspension. That stuff is HEAVY. The aluminum LS will also free up alot of weight.