Questions on Misfire for 98 Burb with 7.4l

[stutaeng]

Well I have had it back at the mechanic since I had a friend tell me that it sounded like it was a valve issue (either sticking or damaged).

Two weeks later the mechanic is telling me it would be a waste of money to rebuild the upper end since the motor has 200k on it. He was telling me that they looked at the lower crank bearings and they are iffy and really should drop money on a long block.

They said the BBC 454 is known issue on this and they rarely make it over 250k without needing a rebuild. He was quoting something close to 4k to swap the motor.

Thoughts? It feels like this is a snowball that keeps growing when I sign off on the repair to be told it really needs more.

Do you trust your mechanic? Yes, 200k is getting up there, but plenty of these engines make it way past that mark. It's all in the maintenance.

So what was the diagnosis? Is that not what you went there for? That's the first question that needs answered.

Did you have low oil pressure? No mention of that on your symptoms...I'd be weary of their "iffy" observations of the bearings, unless they document that.

I'd get another mechanic to look at it...

 

[Frogprince]

I'd get another mechanic to look at it...

I am taking it to the one my employer uses (downside they are 50 miles away). I am going to pull it out of the shop today and tomorrow take it to them. They are squeezing me in for a diag since this is been going on for a better part of 2 months.

The vehicle original went in for a Misfire, Oil Change, and an inspection for a trip that was coming up. They had the vehicle for about 2 weeks and told me it needed a upper control arm, a tune up, and the oil change. They did that and sent it home.

It came back with a misfire still on cylinder 3. So I took it back and they had it for another week or so told me it needed a cap and rotor. So they put those on and told me it was ready. I went back and drove it for 5 miles and it was still missing on Cylinder 3. So I took back and told them to fix it.

They came back 2 weeks later (missed my trip) and said that it was a burnt valve. Compression was low on cylinder 3. When I challenged it (I pulled the plugs and ran a test and got around 150 on all cylinders) they said they trust their mechanic and it was low. I talked to a few shops and they said it was probable. So I decided to allow the mechanic to do the work. Quote was fair and time frame was fine since I needed it for hunting this fall.

We arranged to replace the distributor, injectors, FPR while he was in there doing a valve job on both sides. Dropped it off on the 15th and was told it would be a better part of 10 days. Went by last week it hadn't moved was told it would only take 5 days since the machine shop wasn't backed up. Went by this week and it still hadn't moved and they told me it needs an engine. Something about dropping the oil pan and there is play in the crank. Can you even drop the pan on this engine without removing or jacking up the engine?

For symptoms. No low oil pressure warning signs. Other than the misfire the truck was running strong. It mainly misses at idle. If you are driving it misfires still but not very often. Still pulls at 75 plus.

 

[stutaeng]

Play in the crank? LOL

Sounds shady to me. A lot of guys like myself avoid mechanic shops because of this crap, opting to do work ourselves.

On the other hand, there's still a lot of good honest mechanics out there. Hopefully you find a good shop that's reasonable. But time to run away from these guys!

 

[Frogprince]

Play in the crank? LOL

Sounds shady to me. A lot of guys like myself avoid mechanic shops because of this crap, opting to do work ourselves.

On the other hand, there's still a lot of good honest mechanics out there. Hopefully you find a good shop that's reasonable. But time to run away from these guys!

The way I vest a mechanic is start off with stupid simple things. Oil Changes, inspections and any repairs that are critical. I think the shop has gone down hill since the son took it over. Most people I know have said the same thing, the last year they have been horrible.

I don't have time to tear down the intake (could have if given 2 months like these guys have had). My truck won't fit into the garage and with the rain season approaching it makes even harder.

 

[Frogprince]

Well got it back. Still no official quote on a cost of an engine.

Also it doesn't look like they pulled the pan, or anything underneath. All the bolts have a nice sludge covering from the leaking oil cooler lines. They didn't even put the parts in the vehicle. I had to go back in and ask them for all the parts that I purchased.

New shop will look at it tomorrow hopefully.

 

[454cid]

I think that they either don't want your business and are escalating the cost to get rid of you or someone at the shop likes your truck and wants you to think its junk so you'll sell it cheap.

 

[Schurkey]

Are they refunding the charges for their failed diagnosis, and fraudulent business practices?

 

[Mangonesailor]

Actually the news would probably like to hear your story. They might have a "On your side" division like my local news has that'll approach businesses about this stuff.

 

[Carlaisle]

If this is a 4x4 the likelihood that they actually inspected those crank bearings just dropped to 0.000001%. If your oil pressure is good and you know the oil hasn't been doctored, your bearings should be fine. The price of a GM service replacement long block L29 is about $3,500, but so far I have not heard anything that would suggest one is needed. I'm looking forward to what the new shop says and second the call for a full refund on the make believe diagnostics you over paid for.

 

[Frogprince]

Are they refunding the charges for their failed diagnosis, and fraudulent business practices?

No they are not. Granted I paid with a credit card but they didn't charge anything for the theory my block is shot. Just the charges to replace the upper control arm on the driver side and the tune up. If it comes back that it is injectors then I will be asking for money back.

I think that they either don't want your business and are escalating the cost to get rid of you or someone at the shop likes your truck and wants you to think its junk so you'll sell it cheap.

They keep telling me they really like the truck and that it is rare. They haven't asked about buying it. Though I think the first is right mention is right. I don't do lots of work with them but sitting it for 2 weeks knowing I needed for hunting was a horrible thing to do.

If this is a 4x4 the likelihood that they actually inspected those crank bearings just dropped to 0.000001%. If your oil pressure is good and you know the oil hasn't been doctored, your bearings should be fine. The price of a GM service replacement long block L29 is about $3,500, but so far I have not heard anything that would suggest one is needed. I'm looking forward to what the new shop says and second the call for a full refund on the make believe diagnostics you over paid for.

I plan on leaving reviews everywhere (yelp, facebook, google) once I get another shop to look at it. I know of 3 people that used them that are not going to go back. This is a 4x4 and I can tell they didn't remove anything to inspect the crank bearings. I don't let shops know that I could do the majority of the work myself. For the oil pressure cold it runs 3/4 the way up the gauge. Once warm I would say it is in the normal range and fluctuate depending on RPM.