Parking Brake Cable install

[67GMC]

I finally got around to installing new parking brake cables. Its not as bad a thing as it has been on some of my cars. For advice, use all new parts. On my '88 in the rust belt, everything was rusted up (as usual). So new rear left and right cables, new equalizer etc. I didn't end up changing the cable from the pedal to the first connection as it moved freely and clicked etc. I had to make new brake cilips for the top of the differential (after cutting off the bolt), new clip for the cable hold under the right rear shock too. Just used hardware store pieces of steel and bent stuff around to work.

One tip would have helped if I had put the cables on the brakes first and then did the up front work. I could not get enough slack with the spring to make the brake connection the other way. I see there ia an ingenious tool for this (cable spring pliers) but saved the $30 and used two pairs of vice grips and lots of swearing.

One question for the group: Is there a correct number of "clicks" the pedal is supposed to be pushed for full engagement? I didn't see that in the manual. On other vehciles with hand brakes, it's usually somewhere in the 3-5 click range.

Thanks

 

[SUBURBAN5]

I wish I could help but mine doesn't click. It's a 98 and just pushes down quietly

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

I have an '88 and a '00 Denali that both work great. It's not about the number of ratchets, nor the silence of the newer design. Its the distance of parking brake travel. Between 1/3 and 1/2 of the distance gives a good lockup of the rear brakes.
Adjust the rear brakes properly to make the service brakes feel right, then adjust the cables.

 

[67GMC]

I have an '88 and a '00 Denali that both work great. It's not about the number of ratchets, nor the silence of the newer design. Its the distance of parking brake travel. Between 1/3 and 1/2 of the distance gives a good lockup of the rear brakes.
Adjust the rear brakes properly to make the service brakes feel right, then adjust the cables.

OK-I have lockup on jackstands with trans engaged but parking brake pedal to the floor. My understanding for parking brake is just as described, it's supposed to hold the vehicle in place. It's not an emergency brake that will stop a moving truck. For our inspection here, the parking brake just has to hold the vehicle in place with the engine at idle, trans in D or R. Does it matter if the pedal is all the way down?

 

[SUBURBAN5]

OK-I have lockup on jackstands with trans engaged but parking brake pedal to the floor. My understanding for parking brake is just as described, it's supposed to hold the vehicle in place. It's not an emergency brake that will stop a moving truck. For our inspection here, the parking brake just has to hold the vehicle in place with the engine at idle, trans in D or R. Does it matter if the pedal is all the way down?

Feel like that's up to the inspector. Technically if it works it works. But if it's too low for him I could see him failing inspection. Pull the drums. Check the shoes adjust til there barely touching the drum when you slide it in. If the pedal is still going to the floor then adjust the cables. Spray penetrating oil though.....

 

[67GMC]

OK. As others have pointed out, that Dorman Parking Brake cable Connecter/adjuster is a POS. While adjusting the brakes, I pushed down on the pedal and the adjusting nut pulled through. I cleaned up the original part, rusty as ever, put it back together and working good. I readjusted the brakes individually and it will stay in place with the pedal about 3/4 the way to the floor. Not messing with it any more until the inspection is over!
Upset with the Dorman part though. It has a metal band to tighen the area where the nut goes but it wasn't tight enough. The factory part doesn't have a band. Wondering if I should put a screw clamp on it to be safe.