OBD1 Scanner

[smdk2500]

My '2500 has a 2006 cartridge. Support ended in 2009.

Mine won't boot properly; it works eventually but takes a long time to start. I see a newer-model scan tool in my future.

That is one thing i afraid of how long it will work once i get one. Ive been looking at them on ebay and waiting for tax time to see what i can afford. But by the time that comes around the truck might not run by then. Its got a nasty miss fire when i first start it up that i haven't fully tracked down. Im thinking its a partially fouled plug on number 4 since when i changed the plugs a year and a half ago it was completely fouled closed and i think that cylinder is what is causing my oil consumption to be so high.

 

[Schurkey]

Slap a fresh plug into #4. Better than dealing with a misfire.

You could probably find a pair of "Spark Plug Non-Foulers" if you look around. I won't promise they work the way they're advertised--but again it's better than a misfire. These are for taper-seat, short-reach plugs. There's other styles for gasket-seat, and long-reach plugs in 14mm thread as well as other thread sizes. Be sure to get the right ones for your plugs.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-42006...501718&sr=8-20&keywords=spark+plug+non+fouler

Consider popping valve stem seals into #4 if not all eight. Again, not all that hard, and maybe it makes a big difference--at least for awhile.

'Course, if the oil is coming past the rings, stem seals aren't going to make a difference.

 

[smdk2500]

yeah It just started with the nasty miss fire a couple days ago and only really does it when the engine is cold. it still misses but not as bad when warmed up. I haven't had a chance to get a new plug for it. Ive tried non foulers before and havent had much luck with them. I need a good couple hours of uninterrupted time to get a compression and leakdown test done on it so i know what is going on and know where to go from there.

 

[Jermu]

I've got the best scanner on the market, it's so simple to use and ah, so cheap. Want to know how to get one?

Take some wire and snap a 10 cm bit of it. Slap that thing in, turn on the power and start counting the flashes. Voilà.

 

[Urambo Tauro]

Well that's great if all you want to do is pull codes. You must not be interested in looking at scan data.

 

[Schurkey]

I've got the best scanner on the market, it's so simple to use and ah, so cheap. Want to know how to get one?

Take some wire and snap a 10 cm bit of it. Slap that thing in, turn on the power and start counting the flashes. Voilà.

You clearly don't understand the difference between a scan tool and a piece-of-**** "code reader".

 

[Jermu]

Well that's great if all you want to do is pull codes. You must not be interested in looking at scan data.

You get the fault codes from the comp, besides that, all you need is your ears and nose. If the engine runs rich or lean, you can hear and smell it. If there's something wrong that you can't hear or smell, the fault codes will tell you what's wrong. Also, the cars own gauges should provide a whole lot of information, but if that isn't enough, add the desirable gauges, like trans temp and boost for example. No use spending extra money for a scan tool to tell you all the information you've already got...

 

[df2x4]

No use spending extra money for a scan tool to tell you all the information you've already got...

That's the issue with your statements here... There is a whole TON of information that a real scan tool will give you that pulling codes never will. Not to mention the features that a good bi-direction scan tool will give you access to, such as the ability to command the ABS module to stay open during bleeding.

If you believe that all you'll ever need is a paper clip to pull codes with, that's fine. But this thread was for recommendations on a good OBD1 scan tool, and you're not really helping anyone with your responses.

 

[Tiny Trucker]

Pulling codes is only good for basic diagnosis, real time data opens up a whole new world for finding faults.

Case in point: I had a honda years ago that had lost a lot of power, no codes had come up. Chipped the ecu and ran Crome in real time, found out the timing was adjusting itself all over the place. Switched the knock sensor off and it ran fine. Replaced knock sensor and it still ran like crap. Ended up being a break in the wire.

Wasnt going to find that with no fault codes, you could imagine how much money I could have thrown at ignition parts if I didnt use real time data...

 

[smdk2500]

There is an App for OBD1. ALDLdroid (https://www.aldldroid.com/).

I got the bluetooth version of the ALDL cable (http://www.reddevilriver.com/ALDL_Bluetooth.html) and (after a bit of trial and error) got this scanner/Logger app on my android phone to read my OBD1 realtime.

Pretty slick. I found I have some knock counts going on I never would have known. /QUOTE]

Thanks for the info. I'm contemplating buy a new scanner from snap on. I would like to buy the mt2500 but since support has ended on those if it quits working im up a creek with out a paddle. The one Im looking at will do everything that will do and more. I just have to decide if I want to extend my agony and payments even more.