Obd1 scanner recommendations.

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Hey guys and gals. What are yall using for obd1 scanners? Mine has shat the bed and I need one that does live data and reads codes. My budget would be 250 to 300 dollars.
Thanks in advance
 

1997

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Check out the actron cp9690.
lots of features, but no supported graphing in OBD1
 

Frank Enstein

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I picked up a used Snap-On MT2500 for $80 and it helped me a bunch on the wife's Astro.
Mine can do OBD I and OBD II up to 2007. It takes different modules to work with different cars.

@Shurkey knows way more about that unit than I do.
 

HotrodZ06

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Tech2 clones are pretty close to that price range now. And will do both obd1 and obd2
 

Jeepwalker

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I personally use a Snap-on scanner. Newer version. Snap-on Scanners, even new ones, have the software to be backward compatible back to 1981 ...if ya have the right OBD1 (compatible) cable and OBD1 adapters. It works well, but even a used one is probably out of your budget.

Then there are the older Snap-on scanners, MT2500's (& MTG2500) ...the ones all the mechanics used back in the day. Other than being somewhat large, they actually work really well on OBD1 vehicles. It's amazing how quick the data transfers. These you can sometimes find a real good deal on a used one. Or maybe you know someone who has one you could borrow. Essentially for earlier OBD1 vehicles, there isn't any new capabilities data-wise with newer Snap-on scanners which aren't available on the earlier MT2500 'brick' scanners. And get this: Even using a newer touch-screen Snap-on scanner, you only get two more pieces of viewable data (10) vs 8 on the older 'Brick' scanners. And I would argue that the closely-spaced data on the older Brick scanners is actually easier to read than the data newer ones which have the data point name on one side of the screen and the actual value far across on the other side. So you get pretty good data coverage on the MT2500's. As for the MTG, it's graphing capabilities are there, but limited to useless. Often they lock up in graphing mode. With the right cartridges, the MT's can work up to the mid 2010's (once you get to 2006/7-ish a guy should get a higher level Snap-on Scanner due to memory and speed issues). But just a cheap MT2500 with 1999 cartridges will work great on an older vehicle.

And the other thing to remember on many earlier OBD1 vehicles, the data points values which go to the scanner are often 'interpreted' by the ECU ...not always sensor data from the sensors. So graphing the data is of limited use depending on the data point/manufacturer and so on. But you get a pretty good idea. I never use graphing on OBD1's.

I'm not necesarily advocating Snap On scanners, just providing some background ...because they can usually be had inexpensively, or guys/friends/neighbors have them. They work great esp once a guy has invested in the architecture (cables/ends/etc) you can do a lot of vehicles OBD1 and OBD2. And they allow for a lot of capabilities on OBD2 vehicles. But the software upgrades are prohibitively expensive for a DIY guy.
 
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Jeepwalker

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Here is a Bosch scanner I found on ebay for a pretty reasonable amount. Works up to 2015 vehicles of all makess. The Bosch is a more 'pro' tool. I'm not sure if it's a Chinese knock-off or not. I've heard the Chinese knock-off's work pretty well. If it *is* a knock-off, you probably can't upgrade the software, but then again there would be no need to (and if you could it might be very expensive like the Snap-Ons). If you're on a limited budget, I would definitely give the Bosch a solid look. A pretty darn good bang for the buck. I can't speak to the OBD1 capable Actrons, never really used it, other than my experience with other Actrons was they were more consumer-grade than Pro-grade.

Like another poster said, the Tech 1 (even the Chinese knock-off's) work great. Esp the Chinese knock-offs ...because they work for newer year OBDII GM vehicles too (only), and give some pretty good functionality, esp if you are a solid GM man. But the Bosch would work for all other makes of vehicles, and includes the connectors you'd need.


.
 
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Schurkey

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I used an eBay-sourced used-but-usable Snap-On "Red Brick" MTG2500 for two decades. Did everything I wanted it to, except auto-bleed the ABS on my '97 K2500. Had other ABS features, but no auto-bleed.

Photos and description here, starting at post 14. The back-story is kinda funny, so read the whole post.
www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1146067

When that died, I bought a Snappy Solus Pro, again many years old, sourced from eBay. Software good to 2007 (Version 8.2). Does everything I want it to, except auto-bleed the ABS on my '97 K2500. I paid $350, shipped to my door, but most Solus Pro on eBay run a bit more. Newer software (14.2 for sure, and I've heard 10.x also) will auto-bleed that vehicle. Common (essentially "standard") software includes coverage back to 1980 1/2 for GM, nearly that far back for Ford/Chrysler, and common Asian brands. European software is typically extra-cost.

I like the Solus Pro more than the Red Brick '2500; I especially like the better graphing. But that's me. Either one will communicate with engine, transmission, ABS, Air Bag, Instrument Cluster, etc. depending on vehicle.

There's software-plus-cable solutions that allow you to connect any laptop computer to your vehicle; I've never used them--and I see a lot of questions and problems with them on this forum.

There are other brands of professional-grade scan tools available, Snap-On isn't the only one. But they are one of the best.
 
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454cid

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I like the Solus Pro more than the Red Brick '2500; I especially like the better graphing.

I only recently started graphing. That's how I found the bad TPS on my Volvo. It would suddenly short to full signal voltage for a split second. Unfortunately, I don't have graphing ability for my truck.

I can do OBD1 with my old OTC Monitor Elite, but that won't graph anything. I've only used it's OBD1 capabilities once, and that was with my grandmother's 93? Chrysler Lebaron, which is long gone now.

My next diagnotics tool will be something that can graph.
 

Jeepwalker

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Newer software (14.2 for sure, and I've heard 10.x also) will auto-bleed that vehicle.

Little history: The ole Snap-on 'Brick' scanners, Snap-on had done a great job keeping the scanner up to date and it was in service for almost 20 years. That's almost unheard of for an electronic device to be supported that long. But as vehicle systems were increasing, a scanner with greater speed an memory was needed. Snap-on brought the new Solus out in ~'03 or '05. However, by then many shops and owners had as much as $30k+ invested in their scanner system if they had the printer, cables, keys and all the updates over the years.

While many upgraded (and traded-up) to the Solus, eventually Snap-on stopped producing updates at v9.2 ...or v9.4. Which means the 2nd (or 4th) quarter of 2009. So that was the end of the line on the Snap-on brick as far as factory updates were concerned.

Then .....and this is my point, the software update v10.2 (one year after they stopped updating the 'brick' scanner), Snap-on "conveniently" dropped a whole bunch of new key feature updates, like ABS bleeding. And they added 26,000 Fast Track Troubleshooting tips that went back to 1994. That was a real nice incentive for 'hold-out' Brick users to finally upgrade to the newer Solus. The next 2 years a lot more very useful features added to the Solus.

Personally, I would avoid the first gen Solus Scanners because they still require 'keys'. But if a user already has a comprehensive MT2500 system (with keys), then it might make sense. Snap on eventually did away with the 'keys'. The Bosch however doesn't require any keys.

It says on the pkg the Bosch doesn't do graphing for OBD1 systems. Like I said, graphing on OBD1 isn't really that useful. Partly b/c OBD1 ECU's were a lot slower communicating. There was no 'standard' ..just what mfgrs wanted to ..or 'could' afford to put in their ECU's. If the 'feed' coming into the scanner is too slow then you don't get very good resolution (graphing less useful). In the early 90's there wasn't a lot of incentive for mfgrs to improve their ECU's much knowing that by 1996 they needed to meet OBDII requirements (and the investment that would require). The baud rate of OBD2 ECU's, was greatly increased. Therefore there is a lot more data transferred to the scanner and it can better be graphed into something more useful.

The truth of the matter, most of the time a guy can read OBD1 codes, then google the most likely causes and get good repair information.

MT2500's are the cat's whiskers on older Jeeps too!!

.
 
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PlayingWithTBI

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There's software-plus-cable solutions that allow you to connect any laptop computer to your vehicle; I've never used them--and I see a lot of questions and problems with them on this forum.
Yes, there is a little learning curve with a lap top and software like TunerPro RT, mainly getting the correct files corresponding with your ECM/PCM service number, and configuring your laptop's drivers and port #s. Once you get that setup, it only takes a few seconds to go online with it.

The advantage of this method is, you can data log for as long as you want, monitor all inputs and outputs at the same time, and graph them all too. Price is also a great advantage, TunerPro RT is freeware (with a suggested contribution), and an ALDL to USB cable is ~$60. That's all you need, other than a laptop but, they're super cheap nowadays.

Like I said, graphing on OBD1 isn't really that useful. Partly b/c OBD1 ECU's were a lot slower communicating. There was no 'standard' ..just what mfgrs wanted to ..or 'could' afford to put in their ECU's. If the 'feed' coming into the scanner is too slow then you don't get very good resolution (graphing less useful).
Yes, the earlier ECMs ran a baud rate of 160 but, the later ones like the 7427 was 8192 baud. Even with the snail speed ECMs, usually you can trap your issue with a longer data log.

Another plus with software like TP you can log, tune your .bin (i.e. SA, VE, EGR delete, Hyway Lean Cruise, etc) and with some other hardware/modifications, burn or flash your chip/memcal in your OBDI computer. Fun stuff!
 
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