Not too happy

[Wiscoburban]

I recently bought a 1999 Suburban its got 148 on it but the motor only has 9k on a rebuild. I thought it seemed pretty solid but after I got it home it started showing its true colors. The rear ac lines have a big leak somewhere and wont hold Freon. I knew it needed tires and alignment so today while getting it done the guy calls says the upper ball joints have 1/16th play in them and he said replace them along with lowers but that the lowers were ok for now. He also found that the diff pinion seal and the transfer case output seal were leaking oil. On top of that when the tank is full it leaks fuel out the top some where, which the tank and pump are both new so I don't know why they should be leaking. This just seems like a lot of money going out for these repairs and I am debating whether I should cut my losses and sell it for what I can or invest and hope that I can use it for some good family road trips.

 

[94burbk1500]

Are you mechanically inclined? Mind getting your hands dirty? You can get new, loaded upper control arms, much easier than doing the ball joint itself. The leaks likely aren't that difficult to resolve, you could even just swap in a junkyard special xfer case and axle. The tank probably needs a new rollover valve(s), in my experience, they break when removed and trying to reuse them will lead to a leak.

 

[884x4310ci]

Yes it you are gonna do ball joints do all 4 at once. Then that way you only have to take everything Part once.
But overall it's not a hard job. Get quality ball joints and get it done!

 

[alpinecrick]

I recently bought a 1999 Suburban its got 148 on it but the motor only has 9k on a rebuild. I thought it seemed pretty solid but after I got it home it started showing its true colors. The rear ac lines have a big leak somewhere and wont hold Freon. I knew it needed tires and alignment so today while getting it done the guy calls says the upper ball joints have 1/16th play in them and he said replace them along with lowers but that the lowers were ok for now. He also found that the diff pinion seal and the transfer case output seal were leaking oil. On top of that when the tank is full it leaks fuel out the top some where, which the tank and pump are both new so I don't know why they should be leaking. This just seems like a lot of money going out for these repairs and I am debating whether I should cut my losses and sell it for what I can or invest and hope that I can use it for some good family road trips.

You bought a 20 year old truck. If the expectation was that it would behave like a brand new truck, well....

The 150k mark tends to be where important (and yes, more expensive) things need replaced. Steering--everything from the rag joint to the outer tie rods for example--rag joint, steering gear box (auto part store remans are junk), pitman arm, center link, inner and outer tie rods, tie rod adjusters, idler arm bracket, idler arm, sway bar bushings and links--Moog, Pro Forged, or AC Delco, or you'll be doing it again sooner rather than later.

Suspension-- Replacing the upper, loaded A-arms with upper ball joints makes sense and gets you new A-arm bushings--although the bushings in these trucks seem to last a long time. Lower ball joints while you're in there. Check hub bearing assemblies too.

A crush sleeve is available for the leaking diff--it's a relatively easy job.

Transfer case rear output seal is even easier.

I'm reluctant to even say anything about the 4L60E.

Depends where the A/C lines are leaking, but there are repair kits available.

As 99burb said, if you're mechanically inclined, AND willing to invest in some tools, these trucks are eminently maintainable. Otherwise, the GM dealer is eminently eager to sell you a new Suburban.....

 

[Supercharged111]

You can just live with minor leaks too. Obviously the last guy did. The Corvette is my only vehicle that doesn't leak something and that's just dumb luck. Seems all my front diffs always have a drop or 2 of oil hanging somewhere but never leave a mess in the driveway either. Not enough for me to care.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

You bought a 20 year old truck. If the expectation was that it would behave like a brand new truck, well....

The 150k mark tends to be where important (and yes, more expensive) things need replaced. Steering--everything from the rag joint to the outer tie rods for example--rag joint, steering gear box (auto part store remans are junk), pitman arm, center link, inner and outer tie rods, tie rod adjusters, idler arm bracket, idler arm, sway bar bushings and links--Moog, Pro Forged, or AC Delco, or you'll be doing it again sooner rather than later.

Suspension-- Replacing the upper, loaded A-arms with upper ball joints makes sense and gets you new A-arm bushings--although the bushings in these trucks seem to last a long time. Lower ball joints while you're in there. Check hub bearing assemblies too.

A crush sleeve is available for the leaking diff--it's a relatively easy job.

Transfer case rear output seal is even easier.

I'm reluctant to even say anything about the 4L60E.

Depends where the A/C lines are leaking, but there are repair kits available.

As 99burb said, if you're mechanically inclined, AND willing to invest in some tools, these trucks are eminently maintainable. Otherwise, the GM dealer is eminently eager to sell you a new Suburban.....

regarding the parts suggestions keep in mind that MOOG and AC Delco both have a lower quality line and a higher quality line. Buy AC Delco PRO and MOOG Problem Solver whenever possible.

 

[alpinecrick]

regarding the parts suggestions keep in mind that MOOG and AC Delco both have a lower quality line and a higher quality line. Buy AC Delco PRO and MOOG Problem Solver whenever possible.

Yes, good point.

I"m currently pizzed at Moog--My upper ball joint on the passenger side of my 96 K1500 started showing wear at about 15k--this is with a complete replacement of Moog steering parts, Timken hub bearings, and Energy Suspension bushings. At 25K the ball joint was shot and driver's side was showing movement. I replaced both uppers with Proforged HD. We shall see how they do.

 

[Wiscoburban]

Sorry I probably should have clarified, I expected to have some issues but I am mad that I overpaid and the guy had some work done but it appears the person who did it was half rate. I expect issues but some of these he claimed he had suspension done and the tank and pump are new. I am more mad because I feel like 3900 was too high for what it is and I hate overpaying. I will probably do some work myself and have some done for me. I have a lot of tools and do most of my own work.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

There ya go! Enjoy the experience and learning curve!

 

[alpinecrick]

Sorry I probably should have clarified, I expected to have some issues but I am mad that I overpaid and the guy had some work done but it appears the person who did it was half rate. I expect issues but some of these he claimed he had suspension done and the tank and pump are new. I am more mad because I feel like 3900 was too high for what it is and I hate overpaying. I will probably do some work myself and have some done for me. I have a lot of tools and do most of my own work.

I always cringe a little when the seller says he has had major work done. "New engine" often means a Jasper long block installed at the cheapest possible rate. Rebuilt trans is even scarier. The seller may have had some front end work done, but in their mind it's all the front end parts........ "New tank" may mean a pick and pull from the salvage yard or a CL parting out.

Colorado is only behind Texas and California when it comes to the number of Suburbans/Tahoes out there. In other words Suburbans and Tahoes sell cheap here. $3900 for a 99' Suburbn with less 150k ain't bad. Another $3000 in your parts and labor, and a mechanics labor for some stuff and you could have an excellent and reliable Team Bus for the family. If that's the "burb in your avatar it's a good looking rig.