No start today, been running perfect.

[bluex]

So my truck didnt start today when I got up. We got 2.88" of rain today and it was facing down hill. After checking everything but fuel pressure and trying to start it about 20 times it finally started and has been starting and running great ever since.

I'm thinking mositure in the ignition/cap caused it. As far as I know everything but the wires is OE with 231k. So I priced AC Delco stuff (Cap, rotor, wires, coil, module) and it will run the same price as getting a kit from Davis Ignition.
( http://www.performancedistributors.com/vortec.htm )
I know davis does good things with the old school HEI's, but never heard anyone using them with the vortec. Which parts would you guys use?

The fuel pump was supposedly replaced before I bought the truck. No idea on brand and I know some work was done because the needle moves with the pump vibration. Could my fuel pump have caused this?

Thanks,
Paul

 

[SAATR]

So my truck didnt start today when I got up. We got 2.88" of rain today and it was facing down hill. After checking everything but fuel pressure and trying to start it about 20 times it finally started and has been starting and running great ever since.

I'm thinking mositure in the ignition/cap caused it. As far as I know everything but the wires is OE with 231k. So I priced AC Delco stuff (Cap, rotor, wires, coil, module) and it will run the same price as getting a kit from Davis Ignition.
( http://www.performancedistributors.com/vortec.htm
I know davis does good things with the old school HEI's, but never heard anyone using them with the vortec. Which parts would you guys use?

The fuel pump was supposedly replaced before I bought the truck. No idea on brand and I know some work was done because the needle moves with the pump vibration. Could my fuel pump have caused this?

Thanks,
Paul

Well, if you feel like spending the money and want/need the added performance they offer, go for it. DUI is a reputable company, and I'm sure their product works well, just leery of any claims of increased horsepower, etc, with a few warmed over parts. Ignition upgrades only really help if they improve upon or correct some existing inadequacy in the system, which on the Vortec engines IS the system. The only really viable upgrade is the use of CNP parts from an LS with a 0411 swap. That aside, people make great power with stock parts, proving that they are more than adequate for a stock setup. I personally think that it would be a waste of money to buy the "kit" when factory type parts can be had for lower prices and will, arguably, get you another 200k miles. I tuned my Burb up with a set of Delco 41-963 plugs, BWD wires, and a Borg-Warner Select cap and rotor from O'Reillys and haven't looked back.

When you say the "needle" moves with the pump vibration, are you talking about the fuel gauge in the cluster or a fuel pressure gauge hooked to the feed line?

 

[bluex]

The fuel level gauge in the cluster vibrates whenever the pump is running. The only time it gives a solid reading is when the pump isn't running. It doesn't vibrate a lot but it is not sitting still. It's hard to explain, leads me to think a ground is loose or something. It's like the gauge circuit is getting interfearance from pump running.

I don't really have $300 laying around right now so I'm leaning to the AC cap and rotor and new plugs. Just hope it isn't the pump....

 

[SAATR]

The fuel level gauge in the cluster vibrates whenever the pump is running. The only time it gives a solid reading is when the pump isn't running. It doesn't vibrate a lot but it is not sitting still. It's hard to explain, leads me to think a ground is loose or something. It's like the gauge circuit is getting interfearance from pump running.

I don't really have $300 laying around right now so I'm leaning to the AC cap and rotor and new plugs. Just hope it isn't the pump....

Ah! That does sound like a possible grounding issue. You may want to disconnect the grounds at the frame and make sure that they are clean and tight. That or you're getting some crossover from the pump power circuit. You'd want to check connections for that one too, make sure you don't have any partially melted wires or bad weather pack connectors. Most of those modules include a flat, four pronged connector to be wired in place of the original square connector. They had a tendency to melt and cause issues, so most (if not all) pump manufacturers include a harness to do the conversion. I would check all that out THOROUGHLY before replacing any pumps.

 

[MOBS]

Whatever you do, don't get the wires claiming to be stock replacement but are labeled 7mm wires. You'll lose energy leaking thru the thin insulation. You'll find out if you touch the wire and feel more than just a static shock.

 

[bluex]

Ya I think the PO put some 7mm parts store wires on it and thats why I'm thinking of replacing them. The live wires are the same price as the AC's, but they are 10mm instead of 8....

 

[MOBS]

Yeah, I run 10.5s on everything, helps to have that extra thick insulation. Unfortunately it blocks almost all static, so it's next to impossible to use a clamp-on type timing light.

 

[bluex]

Well the coil checks out bad. To much resistance on the primary and barely above the minimum on the secondary. The wires are genaric 7mm cheapys so I went ahead and ordered the dui kit. Also picked up some ngk tr55 plugs on my way into work. Hoping for no more problems till next weekend when I can get everything installed.

Probably going to check fuel pressure this weekend to rule that out.....

 

[Toms94z71]

I got 8mm Mallory wires on my truck, bwd select cap and rotor, and acdelco rapidfire plugs.

 

[bluex]

Well for anyone following my adventure, the fuel pressure looks good. Its about 64 at key on and falls to 58 or so after the pump primes and stops running. Runs about 58 as well at idle but anything above idle is a solid 63 or so. Its kinda hard to see doing it by myself, but I hope these numbers are good.....


No issues with it all so far since the original no start.....