New to me Truck, What's first?

[351FUN]

On top of what's been covered, replace and add some more grounds.

 

[454cid]

I'd hit it with degreaser and a pressurewasher, then start in on what's already been mentioned. Getting it clean helps you to see what your working with and makes it easier to work on.

 

[RustBudget]

So, while trying to figure out what brakes I have, I came up with a question rather than an answer. Where can i get replacement RPO stickers that haven't been eaten by wildlife? I can see the outline on the glove box door where it was and see bits of it in the hinge all chewed up, not enough there to piece together.

 

[Schurkey]

With particular regard to the Teflon- (PTFE-) liner "steel braided" brake hoses; I bought some from Russell that fit my K1500...sort of. They don't have the metal-tube section that the OEM hoses have, so they rub on the upper control arm. Another person on this forum suggested these instead:

www.summitracing.com/parts/cst-sbh6055

Classic Tube SBH6055 Classic Tube StopFlex Brake Hose Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Classic Tube StopFlex Brake Hose Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Brake Hoses, Sets at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Which have the formed-steel tube that routes the hose so it doesn't rub on anything. Those are what will eventually go on my K2500.

I don't know where you'd get a new SPID sticker. Ask at your local GM dealership.

Open the hood: Which booster do you have? The little one is for JN3 brakes, the big one works for JN/JB5 or JN/JB6. The larger booster comes with a bigger master cylinder, used with the better, bigger-piston calipers.

Most 1500s got the crappy 254mm (10") leading/trailing shoe drums in the back, mated to a light-duty 8.5" ring gear axle assembly originally intended for compact and intermediate cars. If you're dicking with rear U-bolts, wheel cylinders, and such, consider stuffing in a 6-lug, "light duty 3/4 ton" K2500 axle (9.5" ring gear) which has the much-better 11.x Duo-Servo rear drums and is overall MUCH stronger. You need to get matching gear ratio, and be sure to get the K2500-axle not the C2500 axle as the widths are different. You'll need a conversion U-joint in the driveshaft, and the larger U-bolt brackets that are with the "new" axle.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[RustBudget]

With particular regard to the Teflon- (PTFE-) liner "steel braided" brake hoses; I bought some from Russell that fit my K1500...sort of. They don't have the metal-tube section that the OEM hoses have, so they rub on the upper control arm. Another person on this forum suggested these instead:

www.summitracing.com/parts/cst-sbh6055

Classic Tube SBH6055 Classic Tube StopFlex Brake Hose Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Classic Tube StopFlex Brake Hose Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Brake Hoses, Sets at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Which have the formed-steel tube that routes the hose so it doesn't rub on anything. Those are what will eventually go on my K2500.

I don't know where you'd get a new SPID sticker. Ask at your local GM dealership.

Open the hood: Which booster do you have? The little one is for JN3 brakes, the big one works for JN/JB5 or JN/JB6. The larger booster comes with a bigger master cylinder, used with the better, bigger-piston calipers.

Most 1500s got the crappy 254mm (10") leading/trailing shoe drums in the back, mated to a light-duty 8.5" ring gear axle assembly originally intended for compact and intermediate cars. If you're dicking with rear U-bolts, wheel cylinders, and such, consider stuffing in a 6-lug, "light duty 3/4 ton" K2500 axle (9.5" ring gear) which has the much-better 11.x Duo-Servo rear drums and is overall MUCH stronger. You need to get matching gear ratio, and be sure to get the K2500-axle not the C2500 axle as the widths are different. You'll need a conversion U-joint in the driveshaft, and the larger U-bolt brackets that are with the "new" axle.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

The current booster matches the black one. I know I have a 9.5 semi floater rear, but not gearing or brakes. I like the look of those lines in the link. I'm not really going to mess around with the U bolts, just cut them off and bolt on new ones. I learned the hard way not to try and undo rust-welded nuts on easily replaced parts.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

So, while trying to figure out what brakes I have, I came up with a question rather than an answer. Where can i get replacement RPO stickers that haven't been eaten by wildlife? I can see the outline on the glove box door where it was and see bits of it in the hinge all chewed up, not enough there to piece together.

There's a member of the forum who has the capability to run VIN number to ascertain what options your truck has and how many other trucks, that year and model had them. His username is@1ton-o-fun( I think I have that right) and he does this as a service for our membership.

 

[92GMCK2500]

Go check out https://www.compnine.com/vid.php?vin=1G1YY22G0X5107024
Pay 5 bucks and you get 5 VIN decodes. It will tell you all of your RPO codes

 

[Pinger]

You found your way here then RB.
Lots of good advice been given and there's not much that I can add to it. Other than don't be overwhelmed by what needs doing. Just work your way through the list and before you know it the truck is a whole lot better than it was. That's how I did my Suburban, just picked off the jobs as they presented themselves along with my fluid changes. I changed my inlet manifold gaskets (Vortec 5.7) as they were leaking anyway but as you have no coolant leaks and - I think - the TBI engine you have isn't enfeebled with lousy gaskets, so hardly a priority for you. Front brakes are my next biggish job - but there's still life in the rotors so a job for next year.
The upshot of it all is that my truck is in better shape than it was (though it wasn't so bad to start with) and I have total trust in it. Getting on top of a GMT400 rewards in spades.

 

[Zseventy-one]

Great color combo, one of my favorites!
Welcome to the site, look forward seeing more of the truck!

Others mentioned more important things like safety and reliability.

But...I've been told my priorities aren't straight.
1.Exhaust - headers, heated o2 sensor, mid pipe and muffler.
2. Intake - open element air filter
3. LED conversion - in cab and out side
4. 4 Hi head light mod
5. Big 3 kit
6. Mud Tires

Have fun, post lots of pics!

 

[RustBudget]

This isn't going to be a driver anytime soon, mainly for tinkering with a very small budget. It looks like the front calipers and pads can be swapped for the 8 lug size. For the rear, since I need new wheel cylinders, I'm thinking of putting in the dually wheel cylinders and swap the shoes from the 2.5 to the 3.5, if they'll fit. I'm not planning on a lift kit, because I'm short enough to want a step at stock height and it came with a snow plow. Torsion bars are going to need to be tweaked, rear springs replaced, and Bilstien shocks installed. I already replaced the headlight bulbs because i couldn't get them to work, turns out there is a bypass switch under the dash for the plow lights. Bought the whole thing, plow included, for $2300.