need help

[Madd Tinkerer]

have a 94 chevy Silverado 2 wheel drive with the g80 rear and its going . would getting a rebuild kit be worth the trouble . also what should the kit include trying to save some money and tackle the issue myself .will there be any special tools needed or just a simple wrench set be ok? I know a seal has gone gear oil has been slung all around the u joint under the truck . also not sure if this question had been asked before .

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Replacing the pinion seal does not require a rebuild.
Unless there's more symtoms you've neglected to mention?

 

[stutaeng]

... maybe OP meant to say the G80 is going "out"?

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

... maybe OP meant to say the G80 is going "out"?

Yes. And If that were the case, I'd say yank it out and trash it. Then reinstall an Auburn Liminted Slip. Its at that point where the rebuild kit would be a wise choice.
O.P. more info is requested!

 

[stutaeng]

Replacing the pinion seal does not require a rebuild.
Unless there's more symtoms you've neglected to mention?

I'm gonna steal a bit the thread since OP hasn't answered, and this may still help him...


What would you do to replace a pinion gear seal? I've got a 14 bolt 9.5" in an 06 Suburban 2500 that has a bit of fluid leaking near the yoke.

I was thinking removing the pinion nut/yoke, removing & replacing the pinion seal, but not sure what to do after that. Get a new nut? I've read they are one-time use because they are kinda like egg-shapped on the inside diameter threads.

What would you do:

A.) I've seen other threads elsewhere say to mark the pinion nut & shaft relationship, then just tighten it up to the same place... obviously won't won't work if you get a new nut. Reuse nut and add Loctite?

B.) Or just tighten until you get the specified preload? Hope you don't over crush the existing crush sleeve.

C.) Or just pop a new crush sleeve and install it as if you were going to install it from scratch?

I believe the carrier needs to be removed for measuring pinion preload, so that's more work, and OP will need the in-lb beam style torque wrench, although they are pretty cheap.

 

[Turbo4whl]

For the OP if the pinion seal is leaking you want to check the pinion bearing before you take it apart. If the yoke moves up and down, then metal from the failing G80 has worn the bearings. Full rebuild is needed. GM parts for the G80 will cost more than the Aurburn LS. For a few bucks more, put in a Truetrac and all new bearings. Don't forget to check the axle bearings too.

 

[Schurkey]

The yoke itself may have a groove worn into it from the seal lip.

Either replace the seal and the yoke, or you might be able to find a repair sleeve for the yoke. I've used repair sleeves on torsional dampers, but never on a differential yoke.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

So long as there is not a groove in the yoke, and no excess play in the pinion prior to removal, my answer is B.
Just reuse the OE nut.

 

[Madd Tinkerer]

well the other issues it has it sometimes feels like I am towing a battleship , do here a clicking noise when turning right . so I feel this rear end is on its way out . and looking for options on what I can do to keep the truck moving.

 

[stutaeng]

Drop your differential cover and take a look on what's going on. Take a picture and post it here. Folks can help you diagnose it.

But maybe it is gone bad. Do you have an idea what you want to spend on fixing it? If you are on a budget, an axle from the wrecking yard is what I would do. Should only be a few hundred bucks, then another $100 for u bolts. You may get lucky and get some better gears?

The LSD's are not really cheap at almost $600. If your gears are worn, add another few hundred. And another few hundred for a master install kit. You may need a few specialized tools if you don't own then. And a full day at least to figure things out. It's easy a $1300 job and 2 days overall. Pretty big job. YouTube expert degree will be required.

Good luck.