Need help with AC clutch

[PlayingWithTBI]

Yeah, it's not an R4...

https://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Tahoe-Compressor-Clutch-WARRANTY/dp/B00SLWKDMO

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I havent found the "new' R4's to be able to hold up to high ambient temps

Yeah, I'm having issues big time with mine too. I'm starting all over again, after doing the r134a conversion 8 years ago (in my 88), then all of a sudden I went through 2 compressors in a couple months. I just ordered a condenser, compressor, drier/receiver, orifice tube, 2 cans of flush, and more r134a.

 

[bigfutz]

Replying to an older thread, but related problem - 1995 Tahoe 2-Door Base model. Clacking noise all the time even with AC off. Mine does have a nut on the stud. I got it off with a socket and large channel locks on the triangle spring thing on the clutch plate. I rented a clutch puller from Oreilly to get the clutch plate off. Then I removed the snap ring from the pulley, and used a three jaw puller to get the pulley off. Now I’m down to the coil, but it won’t budge. Research says it should come off pretty easily. What am I doing wrong?

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[someotherguy]

I haven't done a clutch on an R4 but I see a snap ring still remaining in your pic - is that one you've already removed? I'd suggest checking youtube as there's likely a video on the specific compressor model.

Richard

 

[Schurkey]

I have no idea why people buy "bypass pullies" when replacing the bearing is generally all that's needed.

 

[bigfutz]

I haven't done a clutch on an R4 but I see a snap ring still remaining in your pic - is that one you've already removed? I'd suggest checking youtube as there's likely a video on the specific compressor model.

Richard

That snap ring is down inside the stator shaft. The coil is the outer ring. I was able to coax it off with a 3-jaw puller. Putting the new one on was a chore. It’s a press fit over the aluminum chassis. Had to tap it in with a hammer and punch a little at a time from the inner race, since you can’t press or beat on the ceramic coil facing front. Then again with the press fit on the pulley, also on the aluminum stator. Then the snap ring.

That’s as far as I got, because all of the clutch installers in the rental kit were too small to fit on the threaded compressor shaft. Unless I can find the right tool, I’m going to have to think hard on how to get that clutch on and set to the proper gap.

At least I have a smooth running pulley now (original problem fixed) so I got the belt back in and truck back on the road, minus A/C clutch. At least it’s winter...

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

The R4 clutch is press fit and is adjusted that way, no shims and the nut doesn't adjust it. All it does is keep the clutch from flying off, some R4s didn't even come with that nut. I used the clutch installing kit but took a socket and tapped it with a hammer to get the proper spacing, 0.020 - 0.030'. I know, you probably shouldn't do it that way but, it's been working fine all year. This is the kit I got from Amazon.com, I think.

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[bigfutz]

The R4 clutch is press fit and is adjusted that way, no shims and the nut doesn't adjust it. All it does is keep the clutch from flying off, some R4s didn't even come with that nut. I used the clutch installing kit but took a socket and tapped it with a hammer to get the proper spacing, 0.020 - 0.030'. I know, you probably shouldn't do it that way but, it's been working fine all year. This is the kit I got from Amazon.com, I think.

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So that kit included a pusher with an inner thread that fits the shaft? That’s the one piece that was not included in my O’reilly rental.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...00/4700295/1995/chevrolet/tahoe?q=67100&pos=0

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I can't remember exactly, IIRC it came with the pusher but was a different thread (some R4s are metric and some are SAE) so, I used the nut to get it on then had to drive it another little bit to get the right air gap. I had one compressor with a burnt clutch and another one with the blown out HP switch so, I took the clutch off the 2nd one and installed it on the 1st.

 

[bigfutz]

Well I finally got the clutch plate pressed back on my 95 Tahoe, thanks to an OEM 27150 loaner toolkit from AutoZone. It included the 3/8x24 inner tapped bolt with nut and bearing I needed. I actually pushed it a little too far - shooting for 0.030” - and used the puller to get it back out a hair. Not bad at all with the right tools.

https://m.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...-hub-puller-and-installer-kit/948077_0_0?aqs=