Need help with AC clutch

[aball]

Hi,

so my AC clutch became very noisy yesterday. My first question is: this rusty piece of metal used to be a nut or what? How am I supposed to get this off?

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Since I am not sure if the AC compressor is working anyway, I'm looking for a makeshift fix...
Is it possible to run a shorter belt and simply leave out the AC for a while like this?

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Since I'm located in Germany it is not that easy to get a new or used compressor quickly and since the AC system is empty and I have no idea about leaks and stuff, I don't want to spend a fortune on fixing the clutch of a compressor which maybe doesn't work...

Thanks, Andreas.

 

[94burbk1500]

You need a bypass pulley, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-HELP-Bypass-Pulley-34152/dp/B000QCM5NM

 

[someotherguy]

Hey Andreas, there's no nut there, just the threaded stud that is used for the clutch installer/removal tool. Don't mind the rust, though it may make it a little more difficult to replace the clutch.

Does the pulley make noise full time, or just when the A/C compressor clutch is engaged? If it's quiet when it spins freely, don't worry about the belt, just disconnect the electrical power to the clutch so it can't engage. If it's noisy all the time, then yes, you want a bypass pulley or to replace the clutch OR compressor assembly.

I believe the part # for the correct bypass pulley in your case would be a Dorman 34174 but you should double check before ordering.

If it was my truck, I'd look at replacing the whole compressor with a Sanden version meant to get rid of the original HT6 (also known as "belly leaker") as the original is not a very good design. You'll also want to flush the entire system with A/C solvent, replace the accumulator ("dryer"), and orifice tube; also, some believe you can't clean the condenser effectively and they replace it if the orifice tube shows bad contamination (lots of metal chips and black crud.)

If your SUV (can't tell if Tahoe or Suburban from your pic) has rear A/C then the required refrigerant and oil charge is a little more than just a front-only A/C truck so make sure the A/C tech uses the correct amount.

Richard

 

[aball]

Hi Richard,

the pulley makes noise all the time, the clutch does not engage because the system is empty. This is how I bought the car. Since I have no idea how long the AC has been empty, it is maybe the best idea to replace the compressor and try to rebuild the rest as good as possible.
Problem for me is that I have limited resources to choose from here in Germany.
I just went and connected the clutch directly to the battery and I can tell that there is some amount of current drawn but the clutch doesn't move. I tried this without engine running, I guess tis does not make a difference, right?
So I decided to go with a new compressor, but since it is easiest for me to order from Amazon, I did not go for the Sanden.

Thanks for help,
Andreas.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Get a dryer/receiver and orifice tube too.

 

[aball]

I did.

Thanks!

 

[studigggs]

My only advice is that if you by chance have an original R4, pay someone to rebuild it or rebuild it yourself. I havent found the "new' R4's to be able to hold up to high ambient temps...of course you probably dont have that problem in Germany.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

What year truck? Your 1st post pic doesn't look like an R4...

 

[aball]

What year truck? Your 1st post pic doesn't look like an R4...

It is a 1996 Tahoe 2-door.

 

[aball]

...of course you probably dont have that problem in Germany.

Yep, here we rarely get over 90° and almost never over 100°F.