Need a rebuild manual, and direction

[nhyrum]

Just wanted to add a couple words of advice.
1. Definitely replace the converter
2. Flush cooling lines, rad, external cooler if equipped.
3. Clean everything to the point of being spotless.
4. Don’t reuse any parts that have damaged bearing/thrust surfaces.
5. Completely disassemble and clean valve body. All valves must be completely free and operate smooth.
6. Read up on common failure points, issues with the trans as this is the time to take care of them. There are correction kits for issues with tcc, boost valve, etc. Not sure which specific issues the 95 had.

I am not a transmission expert so there are likely better qualified people here that can help you along, but I have built a couple dozen over the years. Just wanted to add a little encouragement and advice that has helped me. If you are a detail oriented type, a transmission build is definitely possible. Good luck!

Thanks for the extra tips. I was wanting to not take apart the valve body (or pump) but was going to do the pump anyway. Looks like I'll do both. Now that I think of it, it makes a ton of sense to clean the valve body.

I've already gone through half a case of brake cleaner. I flushed the cooler (in the rad) once, with a can of cooler clean. Flushed both ways and left the cooler soaking. I got two more cans of cooler clean, that I'm going to back flush with both, then blow the lines clear, then find a way to run clean atf through it, till I get clean atf, blow it out, and do it again with atf.

I've been trying to find a place to buy a converter from for an affordable price (not really looking for a "cheap" one, but I would rather not spend 300 bucks on one.) Plus, I'm just confused by them. I know what size I have, and I believe it's a 1600 rpm stall, which I kind of understand what that means, but I've seen ones that say they're for the 350, others, same stall and shaft size, say the 4.3. I'm trying to stay away from fleabay and Amazon too.

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[JWOK]

You really need to disassemble everything to clean it all up, especially with a trans that failed with metal shavings going through it. There are several trans parts warehouses that ship rebuilt converters as well as other parts, but I haven't kept current with which places are reliable. You can also pick them up at the local parts stores, but I haven't tried them. Sorry I can't be of much help there. I may be wrong, but I think the 4.3 may have had a little higher stall converter compared to a 5.7. When you get to the point of reassembly, keep everything completely clean. Pick up some trans gel for bearings, seals, etc. and use lint-free rags.

 

[nhyrum]

Found some more carnage in the input housing/3/4 clutch housing. The picture of the paper towel is what I was able to scrape out with my finger after 2 cans of brake cleaner, took a third to get it clean after that. There's some damage to the housing as well. It looks like pieces of the mouth of the casting chipped off, but these castings have a TON of extra material from the casting process that I think should have been removed, like there's some overrun around the bolt holes on the cover for the flex plate (I've attached a picture of that too, just for reference), there's lots of sharp edges on the case, etc from just... Poor craftsmanship. I know they made like a million of these things, but the castings almost look backyard...

Anyway, do you think the drum needs to be replaced? I'm running towards the end of my funds, so if it's not necessary, I'd like to not to, but, if it needs to be replaced, it needs to be replaced...

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[nhyrum]

Also, I know I should soak the clutches, but it might be a week or two till the trans is fully assembled. Will they be ok with a half hour soak? Would putting some transgel on them help, or would that be no bueno?

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[JWOK]

Not sure about the drum, hard to tell in a picture. Put a steel in there to see if it hangs up, they need to move smooth. Don’t put trans gel on the clutches, soak them in atf. I have put the clutches in a ziploc bag with atf and they can sit around for days until you are ready for them. Still place them somewhere safe in case the bag leaks though.

 

[nhyrum]

Not sure about the drum, hard to tell in a picture. Put a steel in there to see if it hangs up, they need to move smooth. Don’t put trans gel on the clutches, soak them in atf. I have put the clutches in a ziploc bag with atf and they can sit around for days until you are ready for them. Still place them somewhere safe in case the bag leaks though.

Yeah, it is a bit hard to tell in the picture. In the picture looking down the splines at an angle, the kind of teeth marks you can see, aren't simply discoloration, they're actually indentations (at about 1 o'clock you can see the discoloration, but if you look at the ones at about 5 o'clock, you can see the evidence of the gouging. It's not terrible) you can't really see the chipping on the mouth. Oh well.

I am going to soak the clutches. But was wondering if, say I got the drums all put together, then moved on to tackling the pump and valve body, and if that took two weeks, if the clutches would still be fine, or if they would dry out.

A steel does drop in fine, it doesn't hang up in the drum

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[JWOK]

As long as you have soaked the clutches you will be fine with them sitting around for a while. A couple weeks isn’t going to be a problem.

 

[Deancr11]

The drum shows signs of ware but didn't see anything that I would call a problem. As far as a converter there's a place out of Chicago has a good price on them about $100 I will try and see if I can come up with the name for you. Sounds like your doing all the right things to insure a lasting rebuild. Automatics are picky little SOBs I would say when you get to the valve body clean up make sure you lay it out like it came out and when you think it's clean clean it again. Oh and yes it's called a spacer plate and yes it almost alway needs to be replaced on high mileage tranny because that little check ball is notorious for doing just what that one did. Good luck and I'll get back with the name of that place asap.

 

[nhyrum]

Case 1 of brake cleaner down. On to case 2.

I had a local advance order me a torture converter. Used to be car quest, that was at the end of my street. Back when I was a kid (like 10) all the guys there used to build hot rods. Over the years, only one of the guys is still there, so when I need important stuff I need help with, I go there, to him.

Taking apart the pump, I noticed this (the shaft part of the pump). It's like part of the casting broke off. The texture there is rougher than the rest of the raw casting parts, and there's a machined recess on the front side of the pump housing where that part could go. But, at the same time, it doesn't really look broken... And I don't know how it would...

I got the case all cleaned up and painted red to match the truck too. Red should make it go faster, right?(you can't really see it well, bit I did mask everything off)

Sorry, I realized a bit too late that the picture might be too close.

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[JWOK]

I don't think there is anything missing from that portion of the stator support. There is a plastic thrust washer that rides against that which has a couple locating tabs on it. Make sure the holes for that thrust washer are still present and none of the bolt holes are broken.