My 454 Rebuild

[Supercharged111]

Well as luck would have it tomorrow i get to change my power steering gear.
When i started it today the power steering pump was whining and when i checked the fluid it was empty. Filled it up and started it up. Looking around and it has a steady stream out the bottom of the gear.
I need to drive it to work Monday so i could not wait for a red/blue top. Got one at Orilley's for $178 with a lifetime warranty. Hope it lasts at least a year.

Well when that one dies you should be able to get a refund, maybe then you can wait for a red/blue top or send one to Turn One for a rebuild.

 

[Spareparts]

I'll get one from someone parting a truck out and use that as a core to send in later this summer.
Been getting nickel and dime to death with hundred dollar bills the last few months and need a break. Would like to just drive it for a change without issues. I have changed and replaced enough stuff it has to be about there.

 

[Erik the Awful]

No matter what box you buy, bleed the power steering carefully. Redhead's instructions are extremely thorough. You want to work the air out of the system before you fire it up and crank the wheel, or you'll blow that seal out of the bottom of your gearbox again. Ask me how I know.

1. After installing the gearbox, fill the system with fluid.
2. Raise the front wheels off the ground, DO NOT start the vehicle.
3. Work the steering wheel back and forth, lock to lock, 15-20 times.
4. Leave the vehicle sit (overnight is best) AT LEAST 2 hours
5. Top the pump reservoir off again.
6. Work the steering wheel back and forth again 7-10 times
7. Have a person in the vehicle and another at the pump reservoir with a container of fluid & funnel ready to pour if necessary.
8. Instruct the person in the vehicle to start the engine. As soon as this happens, if the fluid level drops, be ready to pour in more fluid. The level must be kept at an almost full level or it will suck in air again.
9. If this procedure is followed properly, the air problem will be solved.

 

[Supercharged111]

No matter what box you buy, bleed the power steering carefully. Redhead's instructions are extremely thorough. You want to work the air out of the system before you fire it up and crank the wheel, or you'll blow that seal out of the bottom of your gearbox again. Ask me how I know.

1. After installing the gearbox, fill the system with fluid.
2. Raise the front wheels off the ground, DO NOT start the vehicle.
3. Work the steering wheel back and forth, lock to lock, 15-20 times.
4. Leave the vehicle sit (overnight is best) AT LEAST 2 hours
5. Top the pump reservoir off again.
6. Work the steering wheel back and forth again 7-10 times
7. Have a person in the vehicle and another at the pump reservoir with a container of fluid & funnel ready to pour if necessary.
8. Instruct the person in the vehicle to start the engine. As soon as this happens, if the fluid level drops, be ready to pour in more fluid. The level must be kept at an almost full level or it will suck in air again.
9. If this procedure is followed properly, the air problem will be solved.

Is Redhead special? I've never done anything fancy like that on any car.

 

[Mangonesailor]

Is Redhead special? I've never done anything fancy like that on any car.

They're just thorough. I've had to do something similar on a few cars. The problem is that air pockets get areated into the fluid and it makes it all foamy. This can cause cavitation in the pump, and also issues with the feel and affect of the power steering.

Basically it's a burp of the hydraulic system. I've had a 1500-gallon hydraulic system get frothed up due to nitrogen getting past accumulator seals during a shutdown. Machine was down for hours waiting on the air to come to the surface and get into the atmosphere, and shat oil out of the reservoir vents.

Not fun.

 

[Spareparts]

I have always filled them up and turn them back and forth a good amount of times, Then fill the pump back up and start it up and cycle the steering a few times then shut it off and let it sit for a while. Check fluid, start it up and go for a drive. Never had a problem yet.

 

[Reluctanse]

When i replaced the pump on my GMT900, the instructions said to vacuum bleed the system. I'd never seen that before. Macguyvered a setup and was able to figure that out. Not sure if it's any more/better/different than the above noted process, which had always been my go-to until I saw the vacuum instructions.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I rebuilt my own box at first. I filled the power steering reservoir, fired it up, shut it down, and repeated until the pump was full and not frothy. Then I fired it back up and started sawing the wheel side to side. As soon as I hit one of the bumpstops it blew out the bottom seal. I was frustrated and bought a Redhead, but I'm thinking that I just didn't bleed it thoroughly enough. I'm too used to power steering racks that are very tolerant of lax bleeding procedures.

 

[Spareparts]

Success! No leaks, No whining pump.
Pretty easy to only took about a hour and a half.
Big difference in steering feel though! Steering feels tight and drives straight as a arrow!.
Anyone remember how easy old dodge's steered like late 60 early 70s. That's how easy the new box steers. Will take a little getting used to i think.
Pretty happy with it, hope it lasts.
Next weekend a new fuel pump and hoping it cures the engine problem.

 

[Spareparts]

Got the FP changed today and man what a PITA that was! but it's done.
Nothing changed really. 2 FPR's, 2 FP's, 2 fuel pressure gauges and nothing has changed except fuel pressure does not drop when giving it gas and the pressure gauge still reads 45psi. I forgot to look at timing when WOT.
When i swapped the knock sensors from the old engine to the new engine they were torqued to the proper spec but maybe the torque wrench was not reading right?
Im getting tired of changing parts for only slight improvements but, About the only things left are o2 sensors, Knock sensors or camshaft.
I don't mind spending the cash but i hate not getting a fix.
The Distributor bushings are tight and the shaft has no wobble also has a new melanized gear and is reading -0.2(ish) on CMP. could the sensor be acting wonky causing the miss?