Good to know!!Headers for a 96+ only change because of the EGR pipe fitting and the added 02 sensor bung.
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Good to know!!Headers for a 96+ only change because of the EGR pipe fitting and the added 02 sensor bung.
I didn't think those looked like something that would work; the weird part is that on the Summit website those two Hedmans and the Stainless Works set are the only three that come up when I put in my vehicle parameters and search for long-tube headers. And with the two that you just posted when checked vehicle fitment it shows that they don't fit! So I don't know gives when it comes to finding headers for this era truck... You'd think there'd still be a strong market for them.Those Hedmans won't fit,they're for a T-bucket or open wheel modified race car.
I found these;
A few points on my truck:I didn't think those looked like something that would work; the weird part is that on the Summit website those two Hedmans and the Stainless Works set are the only three that come up when I put in my vehicle parameters and search for long-tube headers. And with the two that you just posted when checked vehicle fitment it shows that they don't fit! So I don't know gives when it comes to finding headers for this era truck... You'd think there'd still be a strong market for them.
What are your thoughts on these ebay headers for $250? I'm sure they're made in China and might be junk but they're stainless, 1-5/8" primaries and look pretty good in the pics. They don't appear to have ports for EGR and upper O2 sensors so that would require tuning; can that be done with the blackbox or would I need to swap for a 411?
Sorry for all the questions; I'm a rookie when it comes to all this stuff!
Long Tube Headers for Chevy GMC C1500 C2500 K1500 K2500 5.0 5.7 305 350 2WD 4WD | eBay
1988-1997For Chevy/GMC C1500 Pickup (305 5.0L/350 5.7L engine). 1988-1995For Chevy/GMC K1500 Pickup (305 5.0L/350 5.7L engine). 1988-1995For Chevy/GMC C2500 Pickup (305 5.0L/350 5.7L engine). 1988-1995For Chevy/GMC K2500 Pickup (305 5.0L/350 5.7L engine).www.ebay.com
Are these stainless?
The tubing is stainless. Not sure about the weld-wire for the tubes as it pulls gently on my magnet. The O2 bung and flanges on both ends are NOT stainless, they pull the magnet strongly.Are these stainless?
A few points on my truck:
- The headers I actually bought are sold out on ebay. The link I had up on GMT400.com died, so I found the closest thing I could. Basically they look exactly the same. The primary tubes on these trucks need to sweep back up high, then come down in a group like a single pipe. The starter, tight frame rails, and steering shaft all take up space.
- I was MOSTLY worried about the geometry of the headers – can they be bolted in without interference? I did have to dent in the vertical portion of the passenger side heat shield. Just one hit with a soft hammer.
- I was NOT worried about any ports on the headers– those can be plugged or added pretty easily. My LT1 motor has NO EGR, and only one O2 sensor. It’s a FAST XFI computer.
- Because my LT1 has D-Port heads, I had to have my eBay headers modified with the proper flanges. I bought the flanges from StainlessHeaders.com. They cost over $300, which is more than the headers. I forgot to add them on my little cost table. This also meant I had to buy 1” header bolts because of the thickness of these flanges.
- The welding time cost more than anything.
- The drivers side header is farther inboard because the motor is shifted towards the passenger side in the frame on these trucks.
- For whatever reason, the driver side header collector came out lower (closer to the floor) than the passenger side. Because of this, I made an offset in the pipe between the cat converter and the crossover (h-pipe). This offset is rolled to push the muffler closer to the driver side frame rail, and up over the cross-members.
- A 3” pipe would have zero clearance above the crossmembers.