Light sludge in intake valley

[94chevc1500]

Hello all I am working on my 94 chevy I did the intake manifold seals on it and noticed some light sludge in the intake Valley and what I mean by light is I was able to take a towel and wipe most of it up. I looked under the valve covers and it's about the same but I was thinking of putting seafoam in it. I don't know how many miles are on the motor. Has anyone seen this in there motor? Did you use an engine cleaner like seafoam? Thank you

 

[Schurkey]

Does the engine get fully up to operating temperature? A cold-running engine is more likely to sludge.

Make sure the PCV system is working properly.

Beyond that, the LAST thing you want to do is to solvent that sludge, and then have the oil pump circulate it through the bearings and lifters. Mop it up as-is, maybe wash it into the oil pan with kerosene or Diesel fuel, and drain it out. DON'T run the engine with the solvent/sludge in the pan.

 

[Komet]

I'd say my current motor was light sludge like that. I just cleaned it out and I run high mileage oil with a good oil filter, but I also changed my intake and put a new pcv system on at the same time so I'm hoping it won't produce any now. I did also drop the pan and cleaned that out too. Easier with the motor out, of course.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

Yes if you aren’t removing the oil pan then leave it alone. The towel likely left more fabric in there than anything.

 

[CumminsFever]

Seafoam or other solvents are great sludge/dirt removers. They also destroy the oil's ability to do lubrication things.
To clean engine sludge, we've always used kerosene or diesel fuel. We have this attachment for the shop air hose that sprays effectively. Drop the oil pan drain plug, flush everything you can, put cheap oil in there and run it 100 miles, drop that oil, change filter, and that's as good as it gets.
As previously advised, ensure engine is reaching optimum operating temp. A cold running engine will sludge much easier.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Needs an Italian tune-up.

 

[Schurkey]

Needs an Italian tune-up.

For AT LEAST 20 miles, and 50 or 100 would be better.

 

[94chevc1500]

Yes it is getting to operating temp around 190 to 200. I guess I'll try diesel oil for 20 miles and see what happens.

 

[94chevc1500]

Another thing I didn't add. The engine was carbureted and ran cold most of the time before I owned it which would explain the sludge I'm guessing. Now that it's running hotter will it be likely to start breaking up?

 

[Schurkey]

"Diesel oil" is not what you're looking for.

VERIFY THE PCV SYSTEM (from the fresh-air inlet, to the hose plugged into manifold vacuum, and everything in-between including the valve itself) before you do ANYTHING else.

Mop it up as-is, maybe wash it into the oil pan with kerosene or Diesel fuel, and drain it out. DON'T run the engine with the solvent/sludge in the pan.

Or just change oil more frequently--but not "20 miles" frequently. Maybe 2K miles.

Consider a bypass oil filter. I get SKY Frantz filters off of sellers on eBay for <$100. You'll need some fittings, two hoses, and some creativity. Buy the right kit, and most of that is included in the box...although I don't trust rubber hose, and I'm not thrilled with their idea of an oil-pan-puncturing return fitting. I'd build something that returns the clean oil to the valve cover...and then switch the return to the other valve cover after a thousand miles, assuming the first side has been cleaned-up appropriately.

With a bypass filter in place and functional, oil change intervals can be GREATLY extended assuming no other problems--no coolant leaking into the oiling system, for example. Keep the oil level topped off, and change the full-flow filter at reasonable intervals.