Lifts & Hwy Driving

[Blue95]

I did own it stock, and it didn't change a great deal in ride quality with nice tires and the geometry corrected. The 94 is as stock with as stock suspension. I replace worn parts with new ones, I don't ride around with crap falling off so it is a comparison. I'm actually a little irritated by that comment. I have both of the trucks sitting in my driveway and work on the trucks(all vehicles for that matter) for a living. My comparison is based on first hand experience with dozens of lifted trucks with different set ups. As for wearing out front end parts, are you actually an owner of an IFS Chevy 4x4 or is that picture your Dad's truck? Do you know what geometry means? Are you aware that cranking torsion bars is a horrible thing to do to your truck if it is street driven routinely?

To the OP. A 4" lift, when done correctly, isn't horrible on the highway. You will catch a little more wind and sway a little more but it is manageable. Get your front end aligned or you will be eating tires.

You just said you can not honestly remember how it rode stock. Now you say all this is your opinion when earlier it was facts about ride quality, glad we got that cleared up for the OP. I am glad you keep up with your vehicles as do I and now we all know how your 94 is setup and what is new or not.
I do own the truck in my sig, all my money and time. I also owned my previous 88 2wd that was all my money too. I do know what geometry is and how important it is. I am cranked to level, I know what it will do to my front end and the issues it caused with my alignment and for the 3/4" or so I am cranked I am willing to deal with the increased wear, I DD my truck everyday on the street.

 

[96k1500]

An actual 4" lift wont be to bad as long as you also change your shocks, as far as 3" keys that is the same thing as cranking the torsion bars and doesnt give any more lift than crank

 

[Blue95]

An actual 4" lift wont be to bad as long as you also change your shocks, as far as 3" keys that is the same thing as cranking the torsion bars and doesnt give any more lift than crank

if it is a knuckle or diff drop lift then it won't wear stuff badly unless he cranks alot too.

 

[Tony_SS]

I don't think I"m going to lift.. well, if I do, it might be a 2" BL ..I just don't need it really.. I dont want kill my mpg or make it top heavy ...

 

[Blue95]

in my sig my truck is cranked a bit to level and has 285/75/16's which is a hair under a 33

 

[Toms94z71]

in my sig my truck is cranked a bit to level and has 285/75/16's which is a hair under a 33

Actually reading the specs on different tires 285/75/16s seem to range from 32.8-33.2 for overall diameter. On the other note, i have driven 99 up trucks and compared to my truck with all the new fronted end parts and shocks on my truck the handling feels the same, just my truck is a littler firmer, rides a little more like a truck then a car. I do think the rack and pinion steering on the new trucks do make the steering slightly more responsive.

 

[Blue95]

Actually reading the specs on different tires 285/75/16s seem to range from 32.8-33.2 for overall diameter. On the other note, i have driven 99 up trucks and compared to my truck with all the new fronted end parts and shocks on my truck the handling feels the same, just my truck is a littler firmer, rides a little more like a truck then a car. I do think the rack and pinion steering on the new trucks do make the steering slightly more responsive.

Well if you want to get technical then yes it varies, but they flatten out when you set the weight of the truck down on the tires.

 

[Vigh_J]

Had a Procomp 6" and (38-37s) and it was very stiff and t-bars were at stock specs... getting old now driving a grandpa truck

 

[Tony_SS]

Thanks for all the input fella's... I"m glad I didn't pull the trigger on that rcx scratch and dent.. I'm going to do 1-2" body lift. My t-bars are cranked about an 1" now anyway and the ride is still nice...

 

[MOBS]

I still find it hard to get used to ya'll using the worked "cranked" to mean adjusting the height via torsion bars or keys........around here that term is a no-no, because it means you've extended your bars past their normal limits(meaning they've been removed and purposely twisted by a machine to decrease the flex they'll allow because they've been "pre-loaded")........usually ones that are "cranked" around here with aftermarket keys added will be pressed against their bump stops when they are on jack stands and the same when they're off jack stands. That **** tends to break stuff rather easily, and talk about a rigid ride. I've realized in the past what you guys mean by it, it's just a slight different round these parts....terminology and all.

To the OP, the biggest thing I've noticed about lifted vehicles on the highway is the increased sensitivity to crosswinds, get high enough and you'll be changing lanes with the slightest gust of wind.....just because you're fighting against it.