L31 head gasket job tips?

[TonyJ]

I'm starting this exact job, so I'm watching! When you mentioned your C5, it hurt. Wish I still had my 2001 Z06...

Later, Tony

 

[onspeed]

Cracked DS head.

 

[TonyJ]

ouch...

 

[onspeed]

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Now need to decide if I should go with a junkyard head or buy new...

edit - O'Reilly has 11 remanufactured in stock at their hub store in town. ~$300 + core charge. Alternatively, a new head is about the same price. Both are fully assembled ready to go. Is remanu trustworthy or should I just wait for a new one?

 

[TonyJ]

Given how that one looks, you might consider getting two new ones... Have you priced machine work on the other head yet? How much? I know you're just trying to get an old engine back on the road, but I'm looking at these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PAIR-35...NLESS-VALVES-906-062-/271057279800#vi-content

 

[onspeed]

I've yet to pull the other head. There might very well be a crack on it too, although compression test seemed fine when I did it a while back. Wasn't planning on any machine work if it looked solid. Ideally the motor should be replaced, but I don't have the funds to just throw at this car that never gets used. If other head also looks cracked I'll go that route though. 2 heads, gaskets, lifters, etc parts probably will run me close to a grand, half the price of a new L31 crate motor. I think some of the other SBC varients are a little cheaper.

BTW, that ebay link, the shipping is $100+, so you might as well order a GM cast from one of the online vendors. I think a few offer free shipping, and they're ~$300 a piece assembled.

 

[TonyJ]

Just got down to the lifter valley and it was filled with the milky oil. I really don't believe it, but the last one in there left a shop towel. That's right. I found a shop towel laying in my lifter valley... I'll post a pic in a bit...

 

[TonyJ]

Check this out...

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BTW: I bought this truck two years ago and have probably put 30K miles on it with that damn rag in there. I don't know how it didn't destroy the engine. It has 258K and ran great until the water pump cratered and caused it to overheat... I'm in the same situation and need to get out of it as cheaply as possible for now. If the heads aren't cracked, I'll have them cleaned and lapped. I'm going to clean everything up, go with the best gaskets and throw on a upgraded spider with the injectors on each poppet.

 

[TonyJ]

Here's a cool idea that worked out tonight.

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I lucked out and had some scrap thin aluminum bars that I used as measuring fixtures to replace the dizzy back to the same spot. Now I just need to remember to mount the dizzy before setting the valves... Unfortunately, I didn't rotate the engine to TDC before starting the job. Duh... This should get me close enough for it to start and I'll get my buddy with HPTuners to dial it in for me. Cleaning up the mess from the water contamination is no fun...

 

[onspeed]

How should I clean surface rust from cylinder walls? Or should I just ignore it? I think I might also have some pitting on the walls, but I can't if it's coolant residue or rust 'cause I don't watch the try scratch it off in case I knick the cylinder wall.

Car hasn't been ran in a little less than a year. Not sure if the rust has been there since before then, or if it's a recent development.

Will update with pics once I find my USB cord