L31 head gasket job tips?

[onspeed]

1997 k1500 Suburban, ~197k on the odometer, with what I suspect is a blown head gasket. Car has been sitting for the last 6 years or so, started every now and then. It starts, it runs, but a little rough. Had some overheating issues before it started sitting. I did a compression test a few years ago, cylinder 2 had lower compression than the rest by about 40-50 PSI I think.

So I'm going to tear into it and change the head gasket. I've never messed with an SBC before, but have some experience with 3800 V6s and LS1s. I don't know what's a common wear item on these engines, but I do remember something about the fuel system being fixed at some point. Car was misfiring and drinking gas, probably 10 years ago or so, and brought it to a shop and they fixed something. I think the fuel spider was leaking so it was replaced?

What I've figured so far:

Head gasket kit
Head bolts
Lifters
Fuel pressure regulator
Fuel filter
water pump

Plugs, wires, distributor cap are good. Anything else I should get? Valve springs/pushrods? And anything else I should look for once I tear it down? Maybe get the heads checked? Any comments/suggestions/part or brand suggestions, etc please speak up! I'm not looking for performance, just to get it running reliably to move things when I need more space than my C5 can offer.

Also if there are any good DIY sites for this, that'd be great. I have a copy of the GM service manual, but a lot of times it's more complicated than needed.

Thanks

 

[atyates]

I just did this last week on my truck. You will need the intake manifold gaskets. I would also get some carb cleaner to clean the ports in the intake and the heads. When you get the heads off, just make sure the pushrods are not bent. And clean any carbon deposits off the valves.

 

[RyanMerrick]

You should post pics and how to do it....just sayin

 

[atyates]

If I get time today ill take some and post them. Another thins, make sure you mark where your rotor button was pointing or other wise you will have to turn your motor till your top dead center on cylinder one and then place the distributor in with the rotor button facing cylinder 1. Regardless when your done you will have to take the truck and have the timing electronically set. If you don't it will throw the service engine code, " crankshaft/camshaft correlation fault" and make sure you torque everything right. If you need torque specs or info on how to adjust the rocker arms after you take them off let me know.

 

[onspeed]

More info on getting the timing set afterwards, is a GM Tech II needed or will my HPtuners work?

Also when you say adjust the rockers, you mean how to reinstall them? On the LS1 it's like you tighten half of them at TDC, then the other half at BDC, based on which valves are opened/closed. Is it a similar procedure for the SBC?

 

[atyates]

right. thats exactly how you install the rockers. if you need to know which ones you do when, let me know. all i know about the timing is you have to have a computer that has engine live data. the engine must be reved to 1200 rpm and then you set the cam retard between "0" and "-.5"

 

[onspeed]

Spent an hour or two tearing into it today. Didn't really take pictures for diy, but took some so I know how to reassemble. Maybe on the install I'll take some. I'm not following a guide or anything, although I have the service manual if I get stuck somewhere. I got the intake plenum and fuel spider off. Will tackle the intake and hopefully head(s) tomorrow. Fingers crossed I don't see a cracked head or block. The heater hose that plugs into the intake seems very secure, quick disconnect my ass. I think I'll cut the line then just use a short piece of pipe + hose clamps to reassemble. Comments, tips, etc are helpful!

 

[ChrisAU]

I'd replace the intake gaskets while you are there.

 

[onspeed]

If it looks like just a simple broken head gasket, I'm going to replace buy a fel-pro head gasket set that comes with all the top end gaskets. I noticed they sell a "heavy duty" - HST 7733 PT-16 set that comes with better head gaskets/intake gaskets, and also a standard set - Hs 7733 PT-16, that comes with OEM replacement stuff. I'm thinking since the truck has nearly 200k, I don't anticipate the motor lasting another 200k (or the car still being around), so the standard set should be fine, yes?

Also any way to "bench test" the fuel spider? Under the plenum was a bit of gunk, but the tips of the poppet valves look clean. I think it was replaced at some point (either the entire spider or just a poppet valve, if that's replaceable) , but would like to know for sure.

Going to get a new FPR and lifters while i'm at it. OEM replacement stuff from advanace auto should suffice I think?

 

[onspeed]

What's the best way to clean this?

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I guess I'm going to be flushing the oil several times when I get it all back together!