L29 removal questions

[8T7K5]

So I've been working on my 99 K2500 for a few months off and on, mainly off since winter hit and I can only work outside. I had been tracking down a miss, pulled the injectors and tested them, all of which seem to be working and firing fine. Before all of this happened the starter had been grinding and it turns out that the previous owner messed up one of the starter bolt holes and only one bolt was holding the starter in. It will need to be drilled and tapped and I plan on putting in a helicoil to fix it. I know it's critical to get the hole drilled as straight as possible and I don't really trust my ability to drill the hole upside down so I plan on pulling the engine since I'm guessing the flexplate will need to be replaced too. I also want to pull the engine to replace the oil pan gasket, oil pump, and clean out the engine bay and engine. Any tips on doing this since I've never pulled an engine before? I'm guessing it's best to unbolt the exhaust from the end of the header rather than taking off all 16 bolts from the head?

 

[Supercharged111]

That motor fits like 10# of **** in a 5# bag. Since it's 4wd, just drop the diff out to access the oil pan, pump, etc. I've done it that way to both my 1500 and dually. The 8.5" front diff is pretty tight coming out. I had to take a ratchet strap to the center link and pull it forward to get it to drop out.

 

[8T7K5]

That motor fits like 10# of **** in a 5# bag. Since it's 4wd, just drop the diff out to access the oil pan, pump, etc. I've done it that way to both my 1500 and dually. The 8.5" front diff is pretty tight coming out. I had to take a ratchet strap to the center link and pull it forward to get it to drop out.

I know there's a lot involved in pulling the engine, but pulling the diff seems like it would be a pain too. What about replacing the flexplate though?

 

[LC2NLS6]

My 454 came out and back in, not too bad, had worse. 4x4 too. Spray the exhaust Y bolts with penetrant like PB blaster and let sit overnight. That way only half will snap in two instead of all of them. I left the manifolds on. You'll break exh bolts off too in the head. Plan on that.

Plan on anything plastic turning to dust when you move it, replace as they break. Pretty much each sensor will break as the clips are fragile plastic too.

Remove distributor, unbolt all the brackets and zip tie A/C and power steering out of the way. Zip tie oil lines up to the intake with a bolt.

Since I was already running Holley EFI, I used a carb bolt on bracket to the intake to make it much easier. I didn't even need to remove the hood.

2 of the trans bolts are a nightmare, luckily 18 inch and 6 inch and swivels could get in there and remove the two that had the starter wire heat shield bracket on.

Hardest part was undoing the support arms that go down to the trans dust shield, and getting the shield off. I had to drop the front driveshaft to wiggle that out to get to the converter bolts.

Pull the spark plugs, and front pulley so you can put a breakerbar to roll the engine over to get to the other converter bolts. Use a screwdriver or visegrip to block the flywheel from turning to rnr the converter bolts.

Remove the radiator to get room to pull it out and not smack it and have to buy a new one.

Shouldn't have to remove the bumper or grill through.

Buy at least 12 cans of brakecleaner if you can on sale, brushes, box of shop rags. Cleaning is the worst job of it all I think, pressure wash the engine bay/front diff. Then paint the brackets, pulleys, waterpump etc.

 

[8T7K5]

So far I've got most of the sensors disconnected. Upper intake and distributor cap/rotor/wires are off as I've been chasing down a miss and testing the injectors. I also bought a new injector harness since the old one was pretty crusty. I'm thinking about removing the oil cooler lines and replacing them with 3/8 fittings, the factory ones don't seem like they're very leak proof. Luckily, or unluckily, mine doesn't have the dust shield so that's one less step I'll have to worry about. Originally I'd planned on just sliding the transmission back a few inches to access the flexplate but I really want to replace that oil pan gasket and I want to put the engine on a stand so I can drill and tap the starter bolt hole from the top instead of trying to do it upside down. I'm also still up in the air about putting a Sniper on mine but the wiring and needing a transmission controller scares me.

 

[Supercharged111]

If you have the upper intake off it shouldn't be that bad. The Vortec intake makes it tough to clear the motor mounts and cowl at the same time. I totally forgot about the flywheel part so yeah, dropping the diff wouldn't be of much use.

 

[8T7K5]

So pull the power steering pump completely or is there a way to get to the lines without doing that

 

[LC2NLS6]

I left A/C and PS connected to truck, just zip tied them out of the way.