JDM drop springs and control arms

[Cattech24]

Has anyone had trouble installing the 2 inch lowering springs with the 2 inch lowering control arms on a 94 RCSB 2WD? I can’t get the spring installed.

 

[The_Family_Tahoe]

I use two floor jacks and two jack stands and a ratchet strao. I put the jack stands just behind the front body mount so the front of the vehicle is securely suspended in the air with enough clearance to pull the wheels off the front.
Before you start reassembly, zip tie the spring isolator with four zip ties evenly spaced so it doesn't get sandwiched incorrectly in the frame.
Position the lower control arm under the frame, spring indexed correctly, with one jack under the spring cup and one under the lower rear control arm bolt.
Secure the upper and lower ball joint nuts finger tight to the spindle
Confirm the spring is indexed properly on the lower control arm and within the frame spring pocket.
Carefully raise the jack under the spring cup. Take care to guide the control arm front to back and left to right so the control arm bolt holes will align with the frame.
Begin to raise the jack under the lower rear control arm bushing after spring tension begins to build with the jack under the spring cup
It will be a game of give and take between the two jacks to get the rear bolt in.
You may need to use a spacer between the rear jack pad and the control arm. I use a huge 1\2 socket size, like a 1 inch+
After you get the rear lower bolt installed (or as far as full bushing purchase but not all the way through)
Then, to align the front bolt move the jack from the rear bolt to the front. Once the front control arm bushing is raised the control arm may shift inboard
In my experience the ratchet strap isn't needed with stock control arms, but is needed with after market for some reason
Use the ratchet strap to pull the control arm back outboard from center with one of the existing frame slots or holes on the outside of the frame. I hook the control arm on the sway bar mount or around the spindle
The rear bolt won't likely install all the way through until the front bolt is aligned. In my experience the rear bolt arrives home easily after the front bolt is installed

Another option is the OTC spring compressor, but these are on 2 month back order, and in my experience don't always fit the space limitations

There is a lot of spring tension on a stock suspension. Less so on a lowered combination due to lower spring heights and control arm spring pockets. Used and worn springs and control arm bushings are easier to instal than new ones due to wear. Be very careful. There is a lot of stored energy in compressed springs and if you're doing this in you driveway with jack stands please be careful. Go slow. Take breaks to stand back to inspect the current situation for risks. Invite a neighbor over to help and or supervise your work. Another set of eyes can spot risks you might not see in the fog of completing the next task.

Have fun with your project. Post pics of the progress. Everyone on the board wants you to succeed.

 

[Cattech24]

I use two floor jacks and two jack stands and a ratchet strao. I put the jack stands just behind the front body mount so the front of the vehicle is securely suspended in the air with enough clearance to pull the wheels off the front.
Before you start reassembly, zip tie the spring isolator with four zip ties evenly spaced so it doesn't get sandwiched incorrectly in the frame.
Position the lower control arm under the frame, spring indexed correctly, with one jack under the spring cup and one under the lower rear control arm bolt.
Secure the upper and lower ball joint nuts finger tight to the spindle
Confirm the spring is indexed properly on the lower control arm and within the frame spring pocket.
Carefully raise the jack under the spring cup. Take care to guide the control arm front to back and left to right so the control arm bolt holes will align with the frame.
Begin to raise the jack under the lower rear control arm bushing after spring tension begins to build with the jack under the spring cup
It will be a game of give and take between the two jacks to get the rear bolt in.
You may need to use a spacer between the rear jack pad and the control arm. I use a huge 1\2 socket size, like a 1 inch+
After you get the rear lower bolt installed (or as far as full bushing purchase but not all the way through)
Then, to align the front bolt move the jack from the rear bolt to the front. Once the front control arm bushing is raised the control arm may shift inboard
In my experience the ratchet strap isn't needed with stock control arms, but is needed with after market for some reason
Use the ratchet strap to pull the control arm back outboard from center with one of the existing frame slots or holes on the outside of the frame. I hook the control arm on the sway bar mount or around the spindle
The rear bolt won't likely install all the way through until the front bolt is aligned. In my experience the rear bolt arrives home easily after the front bolt is installed

Another option is the OTC spring compressor, but these are on 2 month back order, and in my experience don't always fit the space limitations

There is a lot of spring tension on a stock suspension. Less so on a lowered combination due to lower spring heights and control arm spring pockets. Used and worn springs and control arm bushings are easier to instal than new ones due to wear. Be very careful. There is a lot of stored energy in compressed springs and if you're doing this in you driveway with jack stands please be careful. Go slow. Take breaks to stand back to inspect the current situation for risks. Invite a neighbor over to help and or supervise your work. Another set of eyes can spot risks you might not see in the fog of completing the next task.

Have fun with your project. Post pics of the progress. Everyone on the board wants you to succeed.

I appreciate all the help!! I will get ahold of a second jack and you keep you updated. Thanks again!!