Alignment Cam Bolts 1990 C1500 Drop Spindles

[RShrimp]

I installed the McNaughtys 2 inch drop spindles and took the opportunity to replace everything in the front suspension and steering.
Do I need the aftermarket cam bolts for the upper control arms? The factory bolts are in there now.
Do I need the punch out tool or are the knock out plates something that can be taken out with an air chisel (I like easy and dont mind spending money for easy)
I am having trouble finding alignment specs for my truck. With 40 series front tires I would think I want "0" camber???? Thoughts from the experts please.

 

[90sprobs]

The tabs are perforated so they knock out easily with a hammer and punch. It’s been a long time since I knocked mine out so I can’t remember if you need new cam bolts or if the factory ones work. I would imagine the factory bolts work fine, but I have replaced mine in the past.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

One of mine knocked out easily, the other not so much. But I got it after a 10min struggle and nasty words.
Mine came with new cams so I put them in, I would think they came for a reason, but maybe you will get lucky with your alignment with the stock ones.

 

[someotherguy]

Seems they have varying degrees of difficulty on removal. I've got to do them on my '93 C3500 at some point when I get around to rebuilding the front end with the stack of parts on my worktable that have been there since last July... to that end I picked up an OEMTOOLS # 24210 knockout tool, in case any of 'em give me trouble. It was only $25, so cheap insurance in case any of them are a pain. Looks like amazon isn't stocking them at the moment and a few other places have it at a slightly higher price but I'd question stock as even the manufacturer's site (Great Neck) shows them out of stock. There's some that appear to be knockoffs on eBay for $22 under the same part #.

Richard

 

[Rock Hard Concrete]

I very much recommend an air chisel.

When I rebuilt the entire front end on my 1990 c1500, those knockout tabs took me HOURS. One side wasn't so bad, the other side had much less room.

The best part is the instructions that came with the camber bolts said "simply knock out the factory tabs"

"Simply spend hours on what will be the single most difficult thing on a IFS rebuild" is what it should have said.

I tried renting an air chisel and no one had one so I had to do mine manually.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

I very much recommend an air chisel.

When I rebuilt the entire front end on my 1990 c1500, those knockout tabs took me HOURS. One side wasn't so bad, the other side had much less room.

The best part is the instructions that came with the camber bolts said "simply knock out the factory tabs"

"Simply spend hours on what will be the single most difficult thing on a IFS rebuild" is what it should have said.

I tried renting an air chisel and no one had one so I had to do mine manually.

Ya....I quickly figured out why they make that damn little tool.
If I ever have to do it again, I'm spending the $30 or so.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Please please please DO NOT BUTCHER the adjuster tabs with an air tool. Just reassemble, send it to the alignment shop and let the mechanic use his tool to remove the knockouts.
If you do not own an alignment machine, you don't need to pre-align it.

 

[RShrimp]

Bought the tool and it worked well. Bought MOOG heavy duty Cam Bolts K6302HD. These cam bolts are worth a few extra bucks. Alignment done. 0 Camber and 3ish degrees of Caster. Drives well.