Is this stuff ok to use on ICM

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Supercharged111

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I was not happy or comfortable with my 86 K3500 always running over 200°F , this was brand new. And opening the hood was sticking your head in a 400 ° oven blast wave.
So after about 90 days of open and jump back , it was nope no more. Drained everything, axles, trans, transfer case, oil, filter, fuel filters, radiator. Installed a 180 ° thermostat. What difference. Open the hood no longer get a 2nd degree flash burn. Way cooler. Last year for carburetor and leaded fuel. So no issue with electronics and water temp.

My 1500 and 3500 both sport 180 thermostats. My line of thinking was A: it'll probably take more timing and keep me off of the knock threshold better and 2: give the system a head start if I get stuck pulling up a long hill with a trailer out back. The latter is more of a CA thing really, I don't find myself in that situation that much here in CO despite there being many hills around.
 

JDGMC

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Is this ok for use on ICM?
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This will work just fine.

Focused on the thermal compound properties.

  1. Thermal Conductivity index
  2. Effective temp range
  3. Long service life (stability at high temp)
  4. Application Technique (uniform, thin set 25um)
The difference between dissipating heat from a CPU or GPU vs. an ICM is the environment. Specifically airflow and cooling agents. Computers utilize fans, cryo-cooled blocks, and a fat-finned solid-state heat sync block to maintain lower temps and control temperature cycling.

The GMT 400 underhood environment is more like a wood-fired pizza oven w/temp cycling and a hot pizza pan to dissipate heat (distributor). Aside from adding a solid-state heat sync block in between the module and distributor or relocating the ICM, just use any non-electrically conductive Thermo transfer compound with high thermal conductivity and service temp properties. Use a Thermo compound spatula to manually apply the compound uniformly..it matters. I use the MG Chemicals -8616 Super Thermal Grease II and apply it with a Thermal Grizzly Spatula.
 

454cid

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...Aside from adding a solid-state heat sync block in between the module and distributor or relocating the ICM...

I'd love to relocate my ICM, as it's difficult to get to on my 454. I wish there was an easy extension for the wiring. I'm not sure where exactly I'd put it. I already have a factory heatsink, although it's small.

and apply it with a Thermal Grizzly Spatula.

I never knew there was such a thing.
 

JDGMC

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I'd love to relocate my ICM, as it's difficult to get to on my 454. I wish there was an easy extension for the wiring. I'm not sure where exactly I'd put it. I already have a factory heatsink, although it's small.



I never knew there was such a thing.
Make your own wiring! You can always start with wiring that’s avail for performance module upgrades. Regarding location - anywhere is better than the lava bed it sits on now.
 

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JDGMC

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You've lost me.... what's a performance module upgrade?
For example, an MSD module w/wiring harness to couple to an MSD distributor. You could purchase the wiring harness only to add on to your existing wiring. It’s hypothetical provided you can find that type of setup for your truck with the right connections. Hope that makes sense.
 

Road Trip

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I will also add, that evening is the night I plumbed the oil cooler back up on the 383. After adding the cooler back into place, 10-15 psi more oil pressure at hot idle. 35-40 psi hot idle pressure with the cooler and 25 psi without it.

I was contemplating deleting the external oil cooler setup from the 454 if the original lines were to start
leaking, but I find your hard-won knowledge persuasive. If the lines start showing their age I'll just
pony up and fix it the right way.

Even though the truck seems to have more in reserve than what my needs require, there's peace of
mind to be had knowing that the truck is ready to work hard if necessary.

Appreciate the insight in this area - thanks for sharing.
 
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L31MaxExpress

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GM validated the location of the module, and provided a warranty on the thing.

I'd say relocating the module should be a very low priority.

Applying a fresh coat of thermal paste would certainly be OK, though. I should do that with mine.
I trust GMs validation very little. Considering the 97 had overheating and absent a/c cooling around town when still in warranty due to an inadequate cooling fan and clutch, a 4L60E that only made it 38K miles (probably related), an a/c system that had a compressor case leak that was mis-diagnosed by a dealer as a manifold seal leak causing compressor failure at ~42K, and a 5.7L that exploded due to failed intake gaskets at 57K. What 7 year old, 57K mile vehicle needs intake gaskets replaced? To top it off the GM corporate field engineer told my dad it had to have reved to 7,000+ rpm to have had a connecting rod fail in a SBC, yet Vortecs have a 5,600 rpm shut-off. They completely missed the fact it hydraulic locked due to intake gasket failure and wanted to claim customer abuse. To add insult to injury when swapping the engine, both exhaust manifolds were cracked practically in half and had to be replaced, I chose shorties at the time. Yea top notch validation on the BS they were cranking out on these vehicles at the time. Literally the last newer GM we have ever owned. I have owned some newer models, but they were all bought blown up with lower mileage for practically nothing, repaired and put back on the road. I will never buy a new or even newer GM off the lot as long as I live. The newer they get, the worse they are. I have seen multiple 5.3L and 6.2Ls grenade before the first oil change since covid happened.

It is also proven GM put the PMD module in a horrible place on the 6.5L diesel and relocation is the only way they live.
 
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