wow, those door panels look so much better
interior resto thread (89 sierra SL ECLB)
- Thread starter dusterbd13
- Start date
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dusterbd13
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thanks for all the compliments, guys.
after i get the scoobie fixed, ill get my new moonies cluster in, and sart rehabbing the rear interior panels, as well as getting my seats redoine.
Michael
after i get the scoobie fixed, ill get my new moonies cluster in, and sart rehabbing the rear interior panels, as well as getting my seats redoine.
Michael
Txwildman
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I pm'd you on the mirrors let me know thanks.
dusterbd13
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so time for a bit of an update.
the day after i got the subaru back on the road, my water pump crapped out. replaced that, more fresh coolant, and a little underhood cleaning got done.
didnt take any pictures yet, though. ill do that when i get a lot more cleaning and underhood stuff done. its still pretty messy under there.
i did get my moonies cluster installed, and the speedo calibrated. its correct to within 1 MPH according to my GPS. i also learned in the process that the work truck gauges and the "rallye" gauges use different senders. also, when doing the swap, i left the truck running so i had heat and light. when i got the new cluster in, i had my park brake warning light flashing ABS codes at me. the code was for an open circuit. took a bit of head scratching, but i finally fogured out that the circuit was open, as i pulled the VSS and indicator lampo from it while it had voltage. pulled the fuse to reset the code, and it hasnt come back yet in 300 miles.
i still need to get my new heater controls, dashpad, and bezel installed. also need to work on a bit more polishing on the gauge cover. it still got some pretty notiocible scuffs, but they should come out with some plasticX and a powerball.
while over at tractor supply picking up a part for my air compressor, i found a black toolbox on sale, complete with a few dents. wound up getting it for half price (150 bicks). its made by dezee, and is a low profile shallow mount piece. got it just so id have some dry, lockable storage. kind of like a trunk for my truck. to install it, i had to modify my over the rail bedliner. made a jog out of some screws and plywood, grabbed my great-grandfathers stanly jigsaw, and cut the over the rail parts completely off, flush with the edge of the rail. looks a far sight better now. sill have some trimming to do at the front of the bed by tthe cab, as my toolbox is sitting 4" further in than it should due to the curvature of the bedliner.
today, i worked on the back half of the cabs interior. i have a broken drivers side rear seatbelt, and some other forum members have asked me for a picture of the retractor so they could see if they had one. to get a picture of the retractor, i had to take the interior out on the drivers side. i just chose not to stop, and took out the passengers side as well. the floor is coming up next, as well as the headliner. heres why:
thats about 100 square feet of sound deadening.
also, ive purchased a new passengers side lower extended cab trim panel, as mine was broken in the door jamb area. lastly, i picked up my headliner material at hancock fabrics this past week. its enough to do my headliner and my overhead console.
and the seatbelts. anyone have one in maroon? drivers side rear??
lastly, anyone know how to get the center panel under the rear window out? its pretty badly faded and needs to be restored.
Michael
the day after i got the subaru back on the road, my water pump crapped out. replaced that, more fresh coolant, and a little underhood cleaning got done.
didnt take any pictures yet, though. ill do that when i get a lot more cleaning and underhood stuff done. its still pretty messy under there.
i did get my moonies cluster installed, and the speedo calibrated. its correct to within 1 MPH according to my GPS. i also learned in the process that the work truck gauges and the "rallye" gauges use different senders. also, when doing the swap, i left the truck running so i had heat and light. when i got the new cluster in, i had my park brake warning light flashing ABS codes at me. the code was for an open circuit. took a bit of head scratching, but i finally fogured out that the circuit was open, as i pulled the VSS and indicator lampo from it while it had voltage. pulled the fuse to reset the code, and it hasnt come back yet in 300 miles.
You must be registered for see images attach
i still need to get my new heater controls, dashpad, and bezel installed. also need to work on a bit more polishing on the gauge cover. it still got some pretty notiocible scuffs, but they should come out with some plasticX and a powerball.
while over at tractor supply picking up a part for my air compressor, i found a black toolbox on sale, complete with a few dents. wound up getting it for half price (150 bicks). its made by dezee, and is a low profile shallow mount piece. got it just so id have some dry, lockable storage. kind of like a trunk for my truck. to install it, i had to modify my over the rail bedliner. made a jog out of some screws and plywood, grabbed my great-grandfathers stanly jigsaw, and cut the over the rail parts completely off, flush with the edge of the rail. looks a far sight better now. sill have some trimming to do at the front of the bed by tthe cab, as my toolbox is sitting 4" further in than it should due to the curvature of the bedliner.
You must be registered for see images attach
today, i worked on the back half of the cabs interior. i have a broken drivers side rear seatbelt, and some other forum members have asked me for a picture of the retractor so they could see if they had one. to get a picture of the retractor, i had to take the interior out on the drivers side. i just chose not to stop, and took out the passengers side as well. the floor is coming up next, as well as the headliner. heres why:
You must be registered for see images attach
thats about 100 square feet of sound deadening.
also, ive purchased a new passengers side lower extended cab trim panel, as mine was broken in the door jamb area. lastly, i picked up my headliner material at hancock fabrics this past week. its enough to do my headliner and my overhead console.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
and the seatbelts. anyone have one in maroon? drivers side rear??
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
lastly, anyone know how to get the center panel under the rear window out? its pretty badly faded and needs to be restored.
Michael
darren250r
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Its just held on by some tough clips. Be carefull not to break it on the way out.
blackcoffee
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Thread makes me want to go out and start working on my interior right now! Mine is in a lot worse shape though already...
Afraid I'll have to wait for some funds to replace a lot of it. Interested in the whole "dyeing" process.
Afraid I'll have to wait for some funds to replace a lot of it. Interested in the whole "dyeing" process.
dusterbd13
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dying of whih parts?
would it help if i take some step by step pictures, break down the products and procedures, etc? this isnt my first interior resto rodeo, so ive got some stuff i picked up along the way. the first was a 70 duster, next was a 73 duster, and along the way have been s10s, honda CRX's, subarus, camrys, a 53 ford f3, and a couple of vettes. so ive got some experience, but by no means know everything.
let me know what you want to see.
and i WILL be posting a step by step when my seat upholstery finally gets here (at the end of april)
michael
would it help if i take some step by step pictures, break down the products and procedures, etc? this isnt my first interior resto rodeo, so ive got some stuff i picked up along the way. the first was a 70 duster, next was a 73 duster, and along the way have been s10s, honda CRX's, subarus, camrys, a 53 ford f3, and a couple of vettes. so ive got some experience, but by no means know everything.
let me know what you want to see.
and i WILL be posting a step by step when my seat upholstery finally gets here (at the end of april)
michael
Sully
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What seatbelt(s) do you need? I have the burgundy interior in my 97 and the back seat is coming in favor of a full bench for my dog who is too big for the ext bench that is back there.
dusterbd13
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thanks for the offer, but a guy out in indiana found one for me and shipped it to me. just came in today.
i really appreciate it, though. the fullsize guys are SO much more helpful and polite than the s10 community.
Michael
i really appreciate it, though. the fullsize guys are SO much more helpful and polite than the s10 community.
Michael
dusterbd13
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so this weeks update:
i have found a replacement seat-belt, thanks to addicted2bass. thanks again.
for tonight, i worked on my headliner and roof sound deadening. i did not take any pictures of the roof after the deadening, as i was running out of daylight pretty quick.
but i took enough of the upholstery job to make a how to. if its worthwhile, ill copy and paste it over to a how-to somewhere.
step by step, with pictures for most of it.
1. remove headliner. to do this, gut the interior. pretty much everything above the floor covering has to come out. i did leave the drivers side seat in, but came to regret that decision. it takes an act of god and congress to get the backer board out of the passengers side, even with no seat. i still so not know the miracle of geometry that allowed it to com out and go in at the factory, but for me i had to twist and turn it in a bunch of planes to get it out the door.
2. this is probably what you will be starting with. what is left of the foam is very loose, and the backer board is showing minor signs of damage.
3. weapon of choice for getting the majority of the loose crap off is a stiff bristled concrete brush.
4. this is what you should be looking at after some minor scrubbing with the aforementioned brush.
5. once you get it all knocked off, you will notice dust clinging all over the backer board
7. and quite a pile on your concrete.
8. i use an air compressor to blow all the dust and stuff off of my backer boards.
9. next we lay out our material. i put the backer board on a piece of plywood supported by sawhorses. makes life much easier when you have a hard surface to work on at a comfortable height. make sure to line everything up now, and make sure you're happy with the way it fits on the board.
10. grab your adhesive. i prefer the BIG cans, as you always need more than the little cans have in em. i also use the adhesive designed for the heavy materials, as i find it to stick the lighter stuff better.
11. work from the middle of the headliner out. fold the material over about halfway, and apply your adhesive. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CAN.
work that side down, then go around to the other side. repeat.
12. once the adhesive is set, trim off the excess to about 2 inches past the end of your backer board and flip the whole thing over.
13. apply adhesive to the topside around the perimeter of the backer board, and work your 2 inch overlap to the adhesive. this helps to keep things from sagging and fraying. i also prefer to run a line of duct tape around the very edge as well. always done it, and never had a headliner fall on me.
14. on my truck, i had the plastic Velcro roof pieces break upon disassembly. so for a repair/replacement, i use some self adhesive Velcro stuff from Lowe's. just stuck it to the roof after a good scrubbing with paint thinner.
mostly finished product.
hope that helps some folks out. it only took me about 4 hours tonight all told, but i already had the extended cab parts stripped out.
Michael
i have found a replacement seat-belt, thanks to addicted2bass. thanks again.
for tonight, i worked on my headliner and roof sound deadening. i did not take any pictures of the roof after the deadening, as i was running out of daylight pretty quick.
but i took enough of the upholstery job to make a how to. if its worthwhile, ill copy and paste it over to a how-to somewhere.
step by step, with pictures for most of it.
1. remove headliner. to do this, gut the interior. pretty much everything above the floor covering has to come out. i did leave the drivers side seat in, but came to regret that decision. it takes an act of god and congress to get the backer board out of the passengers side, even with no seat. i still so not know the miracle of geometry that allowed it to com out and go in at the factory, but for me i had to twist and turn it in a bunch of planes to get it out the door.
2. this is probably what you will be starting with. what is left of the foam is very loose, and the backer board is showing minor signs of damage.
You must be registered for see images attach
3. weapon of choice for getting the majority of the loose crap off is a stiff bristled concrete brush.
You must be registered for see images attach
4. this is what you should be looking at after some minor scrubbing with the aforementioned brush.
You must be registered for see images attach
5. once you get it all knocked off, you will notice dust clinging all over the backer board
You must be registered for see images attach
7. and quite a pile on your concrete.
You must be registered for see images attach
8. i use an air compressor to blow all the dust and stuff off of my backer boards.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
9. next we lay out our material. i put the backer board on a piece of plywood supported by sawhorses. makes life much easier when you have a hard surface to work on at a comfortable height. make sure to line everything up now, and make sure you're happy with the way it fits on the board.
You must be registered for see images attach
10. grab your adhesive. i prefer the BIG cans, as you always need more than the little cans have in em. i also use the adhesive designed for the heavy materials, as i find it to stick the lighter stuff better.
You must be registered for see images attach
11. work from the middle of the headliner out. fold the material over about halfway, and apply your adhesive. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CAN.
work that side down, then go around to the other side. repeat.
12. once the adhesive is set, trim off the excess to about 2 inches past the end of your backer board and flip the whole thing over.
You must be registered for see images attach
13. apply adhesive to the topside around the perimeter of the backer board, and work your 2 inch overlap to the adhesive. this helps to keep things from sagging and fraying. i also prefer to run a line of duct tape around the very edge as well. always done it, and never had a headliner fall on me.
You must be registered for see images attach
14. on my truck, i had the plastic Velcro roof pieces break upon disassembly. so for a repair/replacement, i use some self adhesive Velcro stuff from Lowe's. just stuck it to the roof after a good scrubbing with paint thinner.
You must be registered for see images attach
mostly finished product.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
hope that helps some folks out. it only took me about 4 hours tonight all told, but i already had the extended cab parts stripped out.
Michael
