Ignition turns without key… new replacement does the same thing

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Brian71583

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Looking for some input on my ignition lock cylinder.

‘96 3500

The original one a key was not needed. You could start with no key, remove the key while running… whatever you wanted to do.

I got a new cylinder and installed it.

When installed the key feels rough going into and out of the cylinder. It can also be removed when running even with the new cylinder.

When the new one is removed from the vehicle the key goes in and out just fine. Re-installed and it is rough.

But the tumbler (new) can still be turned/started with no key.

What could cause this?

I also think the truck thinks the key is always in the for some reason. The door chime is near constant with the door open.
 

AK49BWL

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You're certain you got a cylinder for your 96 and not a 98+ right? It sounds like you either don't have the right cylinder or it's not installing properly. Also is that chime constant while the cylinder is removed and while installed?
 

GoToGuy

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The door chime can be silenced on some models by rotating the lighting dimmer switch to off , down. Sounds like something isn't pinned or is locked out of position.
Engine running , door open have key chime?
Engine off, door open key half way out still have door chime?
 

Brian71583

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I’m certain I ordered one for a ‘96 but I’ll have to verify it is actually correct. I’ll verify your other questions tomorrow. I’m not sure if I noticed if it did it with cylinder removed or not.
 

someotherguy

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Sounds like possible damage to the column housing, perhaps previous theft attempt or improper removal of tumbler since it takes a key to do so. Removal under normal circumstances requires using the key to turn it until the tab shows up in the little hole in the column housing, then you press the tab with a pick and pull the tumbler out.

Richard
 

Brian71583

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I did some troubleshooting with it today and really didn’t come up with anything. I went to the junkyard and even tried another ignition switch. Same results.

So I tried to think of outside of the box problems. I had the little white clip on top detached and decided to get my big head up above that and look in the hole.

It appears that the little “switch” on the ignition cylinder itself never lines up with the hole in the column ignition bracket thing that the green/brown wire sensor goes through.

The further confusing part is I compared the one that came out originally (that exhibited the problems) the new replacement (that still exhibited the problem, and a junkyard one from a 96 (same year) Blazer (which apparently interchanges) are all exactly the same.

So I am thinking maybe at some point someone put the “bracket” on the column from a different year on the truck.

The lock cylinder would need to rotate another 1/4 or so for either of these 3 1996 ignition cylinders to work.

Tomorrow I think I’m going to go back to the u-pull-it yard and take the “bracket” from that blazer and see where that gets me.
 

Brian71583

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well after lots of chasing things and replacing things and trips to the junkyard it was the short park lockout cable was out of adjustment haha. I guess a previous owner forced the ignition and broke it so it worked anyway instead of fixing/figuring it out. It was in park but the ignition cylinder didn't think it was in park.
 

Road Trip

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well after lots of chasing things and replacing things and trips to the junkyard it was the short park lockout cable was out of adjustment haha. I guess a previous owner forced the ignition and broke it so it worked anyway instead of fixing/figuring it out. It was in park but the ignition cylinder didn't think it was in park.

Thanks for coming back after you fixed it and sharing the solution. *This* is what helps make the forum a
valuable repository of hard to come by broke/fix info.

As a student of the GMT400 platform I learned something today, and it's appreciated. (!)

And Welcome to the forum!
 
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