I need helppppp!! L29 454 vortec distributor installed

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OnxyTheK3500

Newbie
Joined
Nov 25, 2021
Messages
15
Reaction score
11
Location
andover,ct
Beating a dead horse, I read the forums but I genuinely need help. I'm in the process of installing a new distributor Part# Gm03. I watched the videos and each time I think I got it, I fail. Videos keep saying to line up the 2 dimples to a white marker on the bottom half of the distributor, but I don't have a white mark, I have a machined line mark that I'm lining up the dimples. When I do that, the rotor wants to pass the cylinder 8 marking that on top of the distributor. Am I doing something wrong? Does anyone have a picture of a 454 distributor in its correct home the vortec 350 don't have the fuel pressure regulator...I don't think..my thought process is the connector needs to be closer to the fuel pressure regulator. Does that sound right?
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Spareparts

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,120
Reaction score
1,513
Location
North Idaho
Im pretty sure i had #1 at TDC.
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Jackaru

Newbie
Joined
Nov 7, 2023
Messages
11
Reaction score
10
Location
Wasilla
I know I'm late to this, but if you haven't resolved your issue, on my '96 GMC with a Gen VI 7.4 Vortec, the connector is pointed to the LH (passenger) side, roughly 2 oclock. The Flat of the housing parallel with the manifold or roughly perpendicular (side to side). Your pictures look correct for the housing. This only matters for plug wire to crab-style cap placement and sensor plug. What is going to matter is the being on the right tooth. I would disregard dimples as they do NOT always line up with anything. Put your engine to TDC on the compression stroke. If working by yourself, plug an automotive-style compression tester in #1 cylinder (front Left). Turn it to watch from cab and short-bump engine over intil you see needle move. If you don't have a tester, have someone hold thumb over plug hole until they feel pressure. Either with socket turn engine to TDC mark on dampener or a very quick bump will get you close enough. On crab style caps the internal electrode is obviously not in line with the wire plug. Trace the #1 plug to its internal electrode position and mark adjacent to it on the housing. Line your rotor about 20 degrees counterclockwise from the mark. when fully seated it should be on the mark. This is timed with a two way diagnosted anylizer and must have a Cam Timing Advance of 0 degrees (+/- 2) at 1000 RPM or the computer will not be able to find it's happy place. It is very common that you run out of adjustment against the manifold, move it a tooth clockwise and are to far the other way and run out of adjustment toward the firewall (on the right side at the clamp I should say). If this is the case, mark a reference line on the engine of your rotor position, pull out the distributor, drive out the gear roll pin (supporting the gear of course) and reinstall after rotating the gear 180 degrees. Reinstall. This gives you 1/2 tooth adjustment, so the rotor should end up about 14 degrees from your mark in the direction you need to get proper adjustment. Hope this is helpful to somebody.
 

Schurkey

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
11,225
Reaction score
14,188
Location
The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
new distributor Part# Gm03.
What company's part number is that? It's not a GM number.

Videos keep saying to line up the 2 dimples to a white marker on the bottom half of the distributor, but I don't have a white mark, I have a machined line mark that I'm lining up the dimples.
'97 C/K service manual, distributor installation instructions begin on page 6A-496. ONE dimple on the drive gear, aligns with a "white stripe painted" (illustration looks more like a machined line) on the lower part of the housing, just above the gear. Which is probably fine, if no-one has repositioned the gear 180 degrees around.

Then you align the oil pump driveshaft to the distributor mainshaft, when the crank is at TDC-COMPRESSION (not TDC-exhaust), and drop the distributor in. When it seats, the rotor should be as shown in your second photo.
You must be registered for see images attach

And that should be close enough to get the engine running, with final adjustment done via scan tool to achieve + or - 2 degrees at ~1100 rpm.

Am I doing something wrong?
Are you putting the crank at TDC-COMPRESSION and not TDC-exhaust?

Do you have a scan tool capable of showing distributor offset?
 
Last edited:

OnxyTheK3500

Newbie
Joined
Nov 25, 2021
Messages
15
Reaction score
11
Location
andover,ct
What company's part number is that? It's not a GM number.


'97 C/K service manual, distributor installation instructions begin on page 6A-496. ONE dimple on the drive gear, aligns with a "white stripe painted" (illustration looks more like a machined line) on the lower part of the housing, just above the gear. Which is probably fine, if no-one has repositioned the gear 180 degrees around.

Then you align the oil pump driveshaft to the distributor mainshaft, when the crank is at TDC-COMPRESSION (not TDC-exhaust), and drop the distributor in. When it seats, the rotor should be as shown in your second photo.
You must be registered for see images attach

And that should be close enough to get the engine running, with final adjustment done via scan tool to achieve + or - 2 degrees at ~1100 rpm.


Are you putting the crank at TDC-COMPRESSION and not TDC-exhaust?

Do you have a scan tool capable of showing distributor offset?
I'm pretty sure it's on TDC compression, both valves closed.
 

OnxyTheK3500

Newbie
Joined
Nov 25, 2021
Messages
15
Reaction score
11
Location
andover,ct
What company's part number is that? It's not a GM number.


'97 C/K service manual, distributor installation instructions begin on page 6A-496. ONE dimple on the drive gear, aligns with a "white stripe painted" (illustration looks more like a machined line) on the lower part of the housing, just above the gear. Which is probably fine, if no-one has repositioned the gear 180 degrees around.

Then you align the oil pump driveshaft to the distributor mainshaft, when the crank is at TDC-COMPRESSION (not TDC-exhaust), and drop the distributor in. When it seats, the rotor should be as shown in your second photo.
You must be registered for see images attach

And that should be close enough to get the engine running, with final adjustment done via scan tool to achieve + or - 2 degrees at ~1100 rpm.


Are you putting the crank at TDC-COMPRESSION and not TDC-exhaust?

Do you have a scan tool capable of showing distributor offset?
I have THINKDIAG APP. THAT READS CAM SETTING

The distributor is from napa
 

OnxyTheK3500

Newbie
Joined
Nov 25, 2021
Messages
15
Reaction score
11
Location
andover,ct
So this is weird, I got the truck running but running super rough idles ok, but stumbles when i accelerate, and misfire etc. doing some more Investigating. I had a bad coolant temp sensor and air intake sensor both reading temperature off. So I replaced both of them with acdelco sensor. Now the truck doesn't wanna start. I have fuel and spark but note firing up
 

Schurkey

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
11,225
Reaction score
14,188
Location
The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
I got the truck running but running super rough idles ok, but stumbles when i accelerate, and misfire etc. doing some more Investigating. I had a bad coolant temp sensor and air intake sensor both reading temperature off. So I replaced both of them with acdelco sensor. Now the truck doesn't wanna start. I have fuel and spark but note firing up
Ran poorly long enough to foul the spark plugs?
 
Top