Hood dampers

[whitewheels]

Going to get rid of my hoodsprings and go with much smoother hood dampers(those gasfilled springies..) . Have anyone an idea what they should be rated at? Don't want ultrastif so you bend the hood when closing,and not to soft so you get knocked in the head if there is a tiny breeze

bfu

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[RawbDidIt]

Going to get rid of my hoodsprings and go with much smoother hood dampers(those gasfilled springies..) . Have anyone an idea what they should be rated at? Don't want ultrastif so you bend the hood when closing,and not to soft so you get knocked in the head if there is a tiny breeze

bfu

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Depends on your mounting points. The further towards the hinge you mount it, the more force will be required. You can grab a force scale from Amazon and measure the required force to keep your hood open from the desired mounting point. Make sure you also take into consideration the angle the gas shock will be at when it's in the open position. You'll want to remove the hood springs while doing the measurement. You can do the trigonometry as well, but the force scale will be accurate as long as you use it at the same angle the gas shock will be at when in the open position. You'll also want to make sure the mounting points between the hood and the fender are the same distance or slightly longer than the shock in its compressed state, and that the hood is at the correct angle when those mounting points are at the distance of the shocks extended length.

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[whitewheels]

Depends on your mounting points. The further towards the hinge you mount it, the more force will be required. You can grab a force scale from Amazon and measure the required force to keep your hood open from the desired mounting point. Make sure you also take into consideration the angle the gas shock will be at when it's in the open position. You'll want to remove the hood springs while doing the measurement. You can do the trigonometry as well, but the force scale will be accurate as long as you use it at the same angle the gas shock will be at when in the open position. You'll also want to make sure the mounting points between the hood and the fender are the same distance or slightly longer than the shock in its compressed state, and that the hood is at the correct angle when those mounting points are at the distance of the shocks extended length.

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Noted. Thanks [emoji851]

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[alpinecrick]

Going to get rid of my hoodsprings and go with much smoother hood dampers(those gasfilled springies..) . Have anyone an idea what they should be rated at? Don't want ultrastif so you bend the hood when closing,and not to soft so you get knocked in the head if there is a tiny breeze

I gotta ask....why?

Be sure to start a gas strut fund to replace any hood struts because given my experience with camper shell doors and heavy hatchback doors struts will have a lifespan a small fraction of the factory hood springs.

And with all the surface area of the hood a small breeze will have a fair amount of force on the hood and indeed can easily come down on a guy (see camper doors above). My recommendation is to buy struts strong enough to lift you off the ground when you open the hood--that's the criteria I use for the doors on the fiberglass shells on my trucks..........

And how seeing how you're in Sweden, it's important to note cold weather reduces the lift ability of struts.

 

[454cid]

Wow, I'd never get rid of the springs unless it was a weight issue for racing, or something similar. To me lack of springs is a manufacturing cost savings often seen on economy cars.

 

[whitewheels]

I gotta ask....why?

Be sure to start a gas strut fund to replace any hood struts because given my experience with camper shell doors and heavy hatchback doors struts will have a lifespan a small fraction of the factory hood springs.

And with all the surface area of the hood a small breeze will have a fair amount of force on the hood and indeed can easily come down on a guy (see camper doors above). My recommendation is to buy struts strong enough to lift you off the ground when you open the hood--that's the criteria I use for the doors on the fiberglass shells on my trucks..........

And how seeing how you're in Sweden, it's important to note cold weather reduces the lift ability of struts.

Great input.....but [emoji28],I'm after that custom look without those ugly spiral springy thing from the factory.
The truck is not a daily. On a daily I would stay with the oem spring to garantee 100% function

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[sewlow]

Wow, I'd never get rid of the springs unless it was a weight issue for racing, or something similar. To me lack of springs is a manufacturing cost savings often seen on economy cars.

Bagged truck guys with tubbed front wheel wells do this all the time because with the tubs there isn't room for the springs/hinge when the hood is closed.

https://wamrods.com/88-98-fullsize/

 

[whitewheels]

Bagged truck guys with tubbed front wheel wells do this all the time because with the tubs there isn't room for the springs/hinge when the hood is closed.

https://wamrods.com/88-98-fullsize/

Thanks,just what I was looking for.
Some really nice obsess on that page [emoji106][emoji41]

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