Help with stock suspension overhaul

[glendayle]

Recently had an issue where I had to take my truck in to diagnose a coolant leak. I thought it was the radiator, but it turned out to be the water pump. I ordered the parts and replaced it and all is well on that front.

In addition, the shop gave me a list of stuff that would need to be corrected before my next inspection. Keep in mind that this is a shop that I have frequented for years. They know that I get certain things from them but that for the most part I do my own work. Basically I'm saying that if they say something is bad, or needs replacement, then it really does.

So the list of things they said need fixing were,
"idler arm and pitman arms are loose", "needs both inner and outer tie rod ends".

I have completely replaced the suspension on my car before, but the truck suspensions are new to me. I did some searching around on here for writeups on replacing these items, but haven't found what I was looking for. Wondering if there are other things I should try to replace while I'm doing this stuff. I think I have my truck in my sig, but if not it's a 1998 extended cab Z71.

If any of you can link me to the appropriate writeups, I would appreciate it if they exist.

How difficult are these things to replace?
Are there any special tools that are needed?
Anything else I should be considering?

Thanks in advance.

 

[tylers88]

Get an idler arm with the frame bracket, you will need a pitman arm puller, you might need a balljoint separator aswell. I used a big pipe wrench on the pitman arm nut because it is huge. I would also get tierod adjusters because they are cheap and you won't have to fight them if they are rusted on to the old tierods. You can get all of that stuff, tierods(both inner and outter), both arms and adjusters for just under $150 if you get parts master brand from o'rielly auto and you still get a lifetime warranty. You could do balljoints also but if they are still good I wouldn't.

 

[dirtridinz71]

Agreed to replace the idler arm bracket as well while doing the repairs. Defintly get new adjusting sleves, not even worth trying to save the old ones. As far as balljoints go if they are still tight it may not be worth changing them. IMO I would go with the better quality parts like MOOG or Raybestos, I found the cheaper line of parts just doesnt hold up to the larger tires.

Changing the tie rods out is fairly simple. They normally just pop out of the knuckle and centerlink with a good wack from a hammer. The idler arm 3 bolts hold it to the frame then same deal as TRE's on the centerlink. The pitman arm involves the most work. You will have to undo the steering box to get enough room to get the puller on it.

 

[tylers88]

IMO I would go with the better quality parts like MOOG or Raybestos, I found the cheaper line of parts just doesnt hold up to the larger tires.

I said the parts I did because I have had good luck with them but I only run 31s and it is not my DD so I couldn't justify that much to get parts with the same warranty, my buddy ran 285s with all parts master stuff but he was pretty easy on his truck also. If you use your truck pretty hard on a farm or job sites I would spring the extra for Moog, didn't even think about that when I posted earlier.

 

[glendayle]

Thanks for the info guys. I'm just running stock tires/wheels with no plans to change or to lift. Currently it's my DD, but only because I've got a major project underway for my Buick. Link below if any of you are interested in checking it out. I think I already have all the tools needed although my pitman arm puller is for a car, so might not be large enough. I'll have to see.

Are there any writeups to these repairs?


As far as my Buick, goal is to hit mid 13s. Might not seem like much to some of you, but the track is at 4500 ft, so elevation is not my friend. Typically you are .6-.7 seconds slower that at sea level, so if I'm at a high 12s(sea level adjusted) time, I'll feel like it's a decent time. Also my car is an unassuming, stock looking, front wheel drive, grandpa car/grocery getter. Makes for some fun headturning on the street.
http://www.regalgs.org/topic/53160-glendayles-99-regal-gs/#entry339357

 

[tylers88]

Car looks super clean, will be a good sleeper, I have always wanted to build a square body S10 with a L67 and a T5. For you pitman arm puller just slide it over the arm and see if it fits.

 

[jp97K1500]

As far as tools and parts the other post already covered it. I would recommend moog or similar quality brand for ball joints if it needs them just because they can be a hassle to be replacing over and over. I found it easier to pull the gear box out when replacing my pitman arm since there is hardly no room between it the the frame for puller. But could also depend on the puller you use. Just mark the orientation of it in relation to gear box shaft to put new one in same location, if not you could end up turning one way more than the other, lol. As far as the tools you can rent them at o'riellys they usually have the pitman arm puller and tie rod splitter. hope this helps