HELP! (Removing CV Axle)

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ChrisAU

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Well I am trying to diagnose my violent front end popping, and I am having a brain lapse trying to get the CV axle dropped, what am I missing? I spent 20 minutes trying different angles and tugging and compressing, and I could never get much past this:

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I'm guessing it would be a piece of cake if I took the brake caliper off and then the hub assembly, but I don't have an impact wrench or even a long pipe to help me get the wheel nut off, help please???
 

ChrisAU

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I'm dumb, of course spindle nut has to be removed. Durr. Still doesn't fix my clearance issue though. TIPS??
 

bluex

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Ya I've never removed one, but I was gonna say that large nut has to come off. Maybe you could loosen or remove the sway bar end link(s) to allow the control arms to drop down a little further and give you just enough room to wiggle it out.....
 

am92

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Yep, when I replaced mine I had to remove the sway bar link...should slide right out with that out of the way
 

Joesgarage

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Document ID# 1503686
1998 GMC Truck GMC K Pickup - 4WD


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Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement
Removal Procedure
Tools Required
J 36605 Front Knuckle Seal Installer

Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.



Insert a drift or large screwdriver through the brake caliper into one of the brake rotor vanes in order to prevent the wheel drive shaft from turning.



Remove the wheel drive shaft nut (2) and washer (3).

Notice
Wheel drive shaft boots, seals and clamps should be protected from sharp objects any time service is performed on or near the wheel drive shaft(s). Damage to the boot(s), the seal(s) or the clamp(s) may cause lubricant to leak from the joint and lead to increased noise and possible failure of the wheel drive shaft.


Loosen, but do not remove, the 6 bolts (1) securing the inboard C/V joint drive flange to the output shaft companion flange.
Remove the drift.



Remove the lower shock mounting nut, washers, and bolt.
Collapse the shock absorber and secure if necessary.




Important
Cover the shock mounting bracket and the ball stud on the lower control arm with a shop towel in order to prevent possible wheel drive shaft boot damage during removal and installation.


Remove the stabilizer link nut, bolt, and spacer assembly (8050 GVW and above).
Support the inboard end of the wheel drive shaft and remove the six bolts (1) from the inboard joint flange.
Separate the wheel drive shaft outer C/V joint splined shank from the knuckle assembly using a hammer and a brass drift or equivalent.
Remove the wheel drive shaft from the vehicle, rotating as necessary to avoid contact with the lower control arm.
For unit repair of the wheel drive shaft, refer to Inner Joint and Seal Replacement and Outer Joint and Seal Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts.

Important
Clean and inspect the deflector ring on the wheel drive shaft and the wheel bearing seal area on the knuckle. Replace if necessary


Inspect the deflector ring and the wheel bearing seal for nicks, dents, cuts, or tears.
If the deflector ring is dented or nicked, refer to Deflector Ring Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts.
If the seal is cut or torn, replace the seal and inspect the wheel bearing for damage. Refer to Wheel Hub, Bearing, and Seal Replacement in Front Suspension.
Installation Procedure
Prior to wheel drive shaft installation, cover the shock mounting bracket, lower control arm ball stud, and all other sharp edges with shop towels so that the wheel drive shaft boot is not damaged during assembly.

Important
Do not lubricate the wheel drive shaft splines and knuckle with grease.


Insert the outer C/V joint splined shank into the knuckle hub, rotating as necessary to avoid contact with the lower control arm. Secure the inboard C/V joint flange to companion flange with bolts. Do not tighten.




Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Install the stabilizer shaft link spacer assembly, bolt, and nut (8050 GVW and above). Tighten
Obtain torque by running the nut assembly to the unthreaded portion of the bolt, then tighten to 18 N·m (13 lb ft).





Install the shock absorber to the lower shock mounting bracket.
Install the shock mounting bolt, washer, and nut. Tighten
Tighten the nut to 73 N·m (54 lb ft).






Notice
Use only a genuine GM front wheel drive shaft nut. Installation of anything but an OEM front wheel drive shaft nut could cause damage to the vehicle.


Install the hub nut washer (3) and the nut (2).
Seat the shank splines in the hub.



Insert a drift through the brake caliper in order to prevent the wheel drive shaft from turning. Tighten
Tighten the inboard flange bolts to 78 N·m (58 lb ft).

Install the hub nut. Tighten
Tighten the hub nut to 225 N·m (165 lb ft).

Remove the drift.
Install the wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Lower the vehicle.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 1503686
1998 GMC Truck GMC K Pickup - 4WD
 

ChrisAU

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Ok...so what happens when the bottom of the sway bar linkage connector looks like this:

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Am I supposed to cut it off and get a new one? Both sides look like that btw.
 

93Chevy_1500

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A socket wrench with a swivel apdapter should solve that problem. Thats how I put mine on.
 

ChrisAU

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Yeah the bottom of the bolt is maybe 1/8" or less from the A-Arm, no way I'm getting anything on that nut. Guess I need to buy bolt cutters? Damn it this is getting expensive! Haha
 
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