Help!! lost gas milage

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michael hurd

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Alright so speedo is off 4mph at 75. No fuel filter changed yet going to get pressure tested. After The drive truck fires right up so maybe started just Isnt set right going to realign n shim it. Mpg is back up so might have just been very bad gas? I got about 16 mpg at 75. Used 1/8 tank plus over full mark so figuring 1/4 tank went 69 miles ..

The fuel gauge is not a mileage gauge. The only true way to figure out mileage is to start with a full tank, drive X amount of miles / kilometers and divide the distance by the fuel used, period. The best way is to have a log of a few weeks to get your true mileage not just a 'one time trip' on a freeway.
 

michael hurd

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So now I need to know what I should do in terms to boost HP n MPG ... cause as we all know more HP equals more mpg to a certain extent as long as We are nice with it.. so what should I do to get as close to equality in both as possible? Just looking at it as a 15 year old truck with 128k n nothing Don't to it in say... The last 20k

What you can do to get better mileage: remove the 285/75R16's currently installed, and install a lighter tire and wheel combination. The stock tire should be a LT245/75R16.

If you don't actually use your truck to haul heavy loads and tow frequently, you may get away with a lighter tire. I am not sure if a P metric 245/75R16 would be rated heavy enough for a CCSB though, at 2271 lb rating.


If it is, then a Michelin LTX M/S2 would be my choice @ 34 pounds each. Stock steel wheels weigh 34 pounds each. If you had a 285/75/16 BFG All-terrain, they weigh 56 pounds each.

Shaving 22 pounds off each corner will do wonders for acceleration, braking and ride. Combine that with a set of aluminum wheels, and you could be even lighter, coming in at around 18-20 pounds each for a light weight aluminum wheel. With an aluminum 16" wheel and a set of lighter tires, you could be even as much as 36 pounds lighter on each corner.

The stock 8600 GVW y-pipe and air box are different from the lighter models, at least when I compared the 1997 K1500 305 airbox to a 1998 K2500 350 8600GVW. The factory 8600GVW y pipe flows better, and the air filter box is less restrictive. ( 8600 is a single layer, the lighter one has baffles and resonator tubes with a dual layer )

Change out the plugs, install a fresh set of Delco Iridiums if you haven't already, and a fresh cap and rotor. If you have a compression tester, it would be wise to pull a compression test while you have the plugs out.

I would go to a pair of higher flowing mufflers off of the factory Y-pipe instead of the single muffler and use dual tail pipes.

If money allowed, a set of headers would be next on my list, however you need to find ones that have a fitting for the EGR tube.

A lighter weight synthetic oil in the engine can net a very slight improvement in mileage, there is a reason that newer vehicles are using these. If you don't have a G80, then you could use a thinner synthetic gear oil in the rear axle as well.

Also, if you are concerned about economy, remove the lift, drop it back down closer to the road, ensure the factory air dam is installed on the bottom of the bumper, remove any towing mirrors and bug deflectors and ensure the factory 2" nose down rake is set.

Check the tires for proper pressure, check all the front end components for slack, and do an alignment. If all of the above doesn't pick up the mileage, nothing will.
 
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BLACK&chrome

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OK, well got the starter reshimmed and starts like a dream... until I went and washed all the salt of this time by do it yourself wash to make sure n limit next to no water in engine bay. Truck hesitated to start again definatly have moisture getting in the cap but I'm not sure how since PO changed the whole assembly within the last year. Going to check plugs today also. PO apparently didn't know what he was doing or something.

I am pretty mechanically inclined.. as I said before I've just been out of it awhile.. (married,kid n divorce yada yada) left no time so let's get this thing running right

Also gas is doing better thinking the backfire from the first time it wouldn't start threw off the timing s bit but enough for it to auto fix?(someone told me the vortecs adjust slightly)? Idk but on 800 mile 80/20 I got roughly 14mph so I'm not to worried about that anymore still going for a full tune up most of which will be done today. If I get a new distibuter and mfi injectors will I need to tune it also? Or will it automatically adjust with it running.
 

BLACK&chrome

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well got the plugs n cap changed cap was cracked a little by the rear screw so it was over tightened whenever it was done last also was corroded. plugs were deffinatly on there last leg going to get some wires also this week.

so I took the intake off why or what rather is the purpose of the empty air box that has vortec on it?
 

BLACK&chrome

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Also there is a ground strap leading from the auxiliary battery box that isn't hooked up it broke where does it go? No batterery there currently but will be in the future
 

michael hurd

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The empty box is a resonator that. cancels out certain frequencies and quietens the intake noise, particularly at full throttle. As far as the ground strap not hooked up... obviously it would have gone to the second battery thay is not there. As far as the other end it probably terminates at the rad cradle.
 

BLACK&chrome

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OK I know asking to be spoon fed is kinda frowned upon but I'm headed to The yard in about 4 hours after work .. I believe the 0411pcm comes from express vans right? Well there is a few there n need to know What all I need for the swap .. and what vehicle would have the best electric fan to swap .. I will be pulling parts myself n its a spur of the moment run so I haven't had time to get my eggs together for parts .. any help would be much appreciated with how to get the most out of my stock 5.7 k2500 thank you
 

badazzbulldog

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just went thru this problem little over a week ago heres what I went thru, Back in november went to start it one morning to go to work no go so I replaced the fuel pump later that day back up and running from that point on every once in a while when warm starting had to hit shrader valve at intake to let off pressure and it would start,so did a pressure test warm was at almost 100 psi. so from there figured pump was faulty and parts store said they would get me another one to replace it.well got busy with work and truck was running fine other than once and a while warm start issue so put off doin the pump for now,well after plowing a storm we had truck was parked for the rest of that weekend on monday it wouldnt start pump was working looked in plenum it was wet,so check with parts store and the mpfi spider I did 2 yrs back was under warranty still so i replaced it ran great once that was done pressure test was right where it should be,ran truck over the next few days and started to smell rich and running rough well it popped the fpr tore it down again got another spider and started over this time around I put air to the return line to tank and it was plugged solid so this is what was the culprit from the start back in november when pump was done.along the line in the frame rail was a union to join the lines that was corroded on the inside and constricting the flow back to the tank. so all in all do the mpfi spider that will make a big difference.
 

BLACK&chrome

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It was just crack in cap ... had first trial yesterday with success
 
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