Help figuring out steering play.

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jedi_jackson

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I have been trying to figure out the steering play in my 94 K1500 and a click when turning the wheel. I jacked up the truck and wiggled both tires left to right and there is tons of play. I've added some videos of the idler and pitman arms as well as the steering shaft and of the actual wheel moving back and forth. Can you guys help me out to see if anything looks off to you? This is my first K1500, so I'm unfamiliar if any of this is normal for these trucks. Thanks again.

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east302

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No, none of that looks normal. That’s got to be a bear to drive.

It’s hard to judge unless you can watch the entire steering linkage move (looking to see where the movement stops). But best guess and part cannon approach is that the idler, idler bracket, pitman arm and tie rod ends could be replaced and make a nice improvement.

I’d also check the four ball joints for movement.

On the steering shaft, pull the collar back where the shaft connects to the steering gear and watch that rag joint when you turn the wheel.
 

jedi_jackson

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Should I also look at the steering gear? And how would I check it? I've mainly owned rack and pinion vehicles. I'll check everything when I get home today.
 

east302

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It could also be worn, but it can be difficult to source a quality reman. Normally, you’d turn the steering wheel and see how quickly the pitman arm responds/turns. But since you have all of that play in the steering shaft it may be hard to gauge.

A possible workaround - You could try disconnecting the steering shaft and fitting a 12-pt socket and breaker bar onto the input shaft at the gearbox. Turn it back and forth and see how much slack is between it and the pitman arm.
 

alignman88

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Doing the “dry park” method like you did is great for tie rod end checking but they weren’t visible in the video. Any lateral play (side to side) that doesn’t match spindle is bad. Be careful about condemning the idler arm, they are deigned to be checked with one wheel raised, a dial indicator placed on it, and no more than 15lbs of hand pressure. I can’t remember if allowance of movement is .015 or 0.30. The steering arm geometry on GM trucks is odd, so they have the play built into the idler to make up for lack of Ackerman at tight turns. Hence the light tire squealing in tight turns-outside tire still dragging a little.
 

jedi_jackson

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Doing the “dry park” method like you did is great for tie rod end checking but they weren’t visible in the video. Any lateral play (side to side) that doesn’t match spindle is bad. Be careful about condemning the idler arm, they are deigned to be checked with one wheel raised, a dial indicator placed on it, and no more than 15lbs of hand pressure. I can’t remember if allowance of movement is .015 or 0.30. The steering arm geometry on GM trucks is odd, so they have the play built into the idler to make up for lack of Ackerman at tight turns. Hence the light tire squealing in tight turns-outside tire still dragging a little.
I have to clarify. The first video of the wheel moving back and forth. It is actually jacked up just enough for the tire to not make contact with the pavement. I turned the steering wheel with both wheels on the ground today and tons of movement in the steering box before it even begins to turn the wheels. So I'm guessing I need to either rebuild the steering box or buy another. Is rebuilding one something the average shade tree mechanic can accomplish? I'm also concerned about the popping and movement in the steering shaft going into the firewall. You can feel an hear a click. Is there something in the column that needs replaced?
 

east302

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Was that slack in the steering gear observed with the steering shaft in place?
Meaning - any play at the pitman arm could be a result of whatever you have going on in the shaft.

Parts store reman gearboxes are a crap shoot. Bluetop and Redhead tend to get good reviews, though. I’ve had both, no issues.

I don’t remember if it’s in the manual, but check to see if the rebuild procedure is there. PDF downloads are here for most 88-98 models.


YouTube may be another source for Saginaw box rebuilds. With the correct tools and a good manual, I don’t see why you couldn’t do the job yourself.
 

cgreppi

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Get a Red Top Steering Gear. They have a tag on it that says " this steering gear has Zero Play".And it is TRUE. I have a 1990 K1500 Replaced steering gear, ball joints, idler arm, pitman arm, inner & outer tie rods and the hub w/ bearings. I went from sober drunk driving, to ZERO PLAY.
 

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jedi_jackson

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Was that slack in the steering gear observed with the steering shaft in place?
Meaning - any play at the pitman arm could be a result of whatever you have going on in the shaft.

Parts store reman gearboxes are a crap shoot. Bluetop and Redhead tend to get good reviews, though. I’ve had both, no issues.

I don’t remember if it’s in the manual, but check to see if the rebuild procedure is there. PDF downloads are here for most 88-98 models.


YouTube may be another source for Saginaw box rebuilds. With the correct tools and a good manual, I don’t see why you couldn’t do the job yourself.
Yes the steering shaft was connected. I watched the steering box and my dad moved the steering wheel back and forth and tons of play in the steering wheel before any movement was seen in steering box or pitman arm.
 
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