Fluids and filtration discussion

[JollyGreen]

I haven't changed the fluids in my 99 yet, but this is what's going in it when I get back:


Engine oil: Lucas Oil Synthetic 5w-30 (5000 mi.)

Oil filter: Wix

Trans fluid: Valvoline Dex VI w/ Wix filter

Engine coolant: Prestone 50/50 w/ distilled water

Rear end fluid: Lucas Oil Synthetic 75w-90

Transfer case: Valvoline Dex VI

Front diff: Lucas Oil Synthetic 75w-90

Air cleaner: Wix

Power Steering: Valvoline

Fuel filter: Wix (15-20k)

Brake Fluid: Valvoline DOT 4

 

[Sampuppy1]

Wait you change your fuel filter every 4th fill up????


Tyler/T-Unit

 

[Sampuppy1]

So how about that new valvoline half recycled next gen oil? What's next? Half reclaimed oil filters??


Tyler/T-Unit

 

[great white]

So how about that new valvoline half recycled next gen oil? What's next? Half reclaimed oil filters??


Tyler/T-Unit

It all depends on what they are doing to the base stock before reselling it.

Refreshing the additive package is fairly simple when remanufacturing used oil.

If they are taking it back to the hydro stage of production and doing things like de-oxidizing the molecule chains it's essentially new oil.

Problem is: you're never going to get that sort of info from a company trying to sell you a product. It's for that very reason that i do not use (nor recommend to others) that they buy "reclaimed" oil. You just never know what you're getting. It's not worth the doubt when pouring it in an engine that is going to cost you 5,000-10,000 to replace (i'm talking new engine plus labor prices gents).

Maybe when it's final 20 bucks a quart for oil i may start, but not today....

 

[Blakestuhh]

What's the best to use? The oil cap says 5w30 but I've been using 10w30. Does it really matter?

 

[great white]

What's the best to use? The oil cap says 5w30 but I've been using 10w30. Does it really matter?

Download the manual: http://justgivemethedamnmanual.com/gmc/gmc-sierra-owners-manuals/:

Go to page 23 and look at the temperature recommendations for viscosity.

The earliest is a 93, but same same for your 90.

If your engine has any significant miles on it, 10W30 is fine year round.

 

[Sampuppy1]

What's the best to use? The oil cap says 5w30 but I've been using 10w30. Does it really matter?

I have heard all sorts of theories and ideas and seen all sorts of practices. Honestly myself I go by what's in the cap our ford econolines at work recommend 5w20 and we run 15w40 conventional diesel oil with 5,000 mile drain intervals and the engines are still leak free at 300,000. They were leased then rented and now are shop vans. They have zero power we run them ragged when we take them out they drive like shiit but they don't break down.


Tyler/T-Unit

 

[JollyGreen]

Wait you change your fuel filter every 4th fill up????


Tyler/T-Unit

I don't know why I put that down. I change it about once a year.

 

[great white]

I don't know why I put that down. I change it about once a year.

Ultimately, by running hours is the best way for things like fuel filters. Lacking Hour meters, mileage becomes the next best meter stick.

Air filters are best determined by differential pressure, but that is something most users don't/won't know. Mileage and operating environment become the easiest way.

Oil and filter is also best by hour meter or total time in sump. Lacking that, mileage and time in crankcase become the consumer accepted measure for replacement.

Transmission is mileage, unless you know you've been working it hard or have overheated it.

Axles are mileage or if they've been submersed. Submersion is a "change it right now" scenario for me.



Reading back over my own words here, I find myself wondering why I took the hour meter out of my truck.

I think I might put it back in.......

 

[JollyGreen]

Ultimately, by running hours is the best way for things like fuel filters. Lacking Hour meters, mileage becomes the next best meter stick.

Air filters are best determined by differential pressure, but that is something most users don't/won't know. Mileage and operating environment become the easiest way.

Oil and filter is also best by hour meter, lacking that, mileage and time in crankcase become the consumer accepted measure for replacement.

Why did I take the hour meter out of my truck again?

Reading back over my own words here, I think I might put it back in.......

That's what we use in the tractors, combines, etc back home. Generally we changed it every 90 hours. It gets real expensive when you're changing oil and the case holds 7+ gallons of oil, plus changing 2 oil filters. We run BP 15w-40 (used to be Amoco) oil. I'll tell you, that was the best oil before they got bought out by BP.