Fluids and filtration discussion

[hawkeyez71]

How the hell did you post this in 1972? Lol

Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk 2

 

[great white]

One the fence about switching to synthetic fluids...

If you're cash strapped, I wouldn't bother. I also wouldn't bother if the truck is up around 200-300,000....

 

[gmcyukondriver]

Engine oil: I use Castrol GTX High mileage. Just the conventional 5w30. Wix filter

Transmission fluid: Valvoline High Mileage Dextron III. I also added a little Lucas Oil automatic trans stop slip recently. Stuff works really well.

Transfer case: What's that?

Coolant: Prestone concentrated with distilled water mixed in.

Fuel: 91 octane, usually from Costco. Have to run premium with the Whipple. I might be able to get away with running 87, but I don't want to risk pinging a motor with 197k on the clock. That would be a death sentence.

Air Filter: K&N cone filter. Came with the Whipple kit on a special cold air intake duct. I plan on making my own after doing some looking and piecing together.

Everything else (power steering, brake fluid, rear diff): No idea. I've added brake and ps fluid, just don't remember what I used. The diff was serviced before I started driving it, and so I don't think it's quite ready for another one just yet. I'm checking on that, though.

 

[twomanymontes]

Oil= Conventional 10W30 Changed every 3,000 with whatever is on sale. Burns/leaks about a quart every 1500 miles so I top it off. Fram Filter
Transmission= Valvoline Max Life Dextron III Changed every 50,000. Wix filter boxed as NAPA
Transfer case= Just changed it with GM Transfer Case fluid. [Got it free from a vendor]
Coolant= Prestone mixed 50/50 Changed last summer when I replaced the water pump, Normally every 50,000
Differentials= Valvoline 80W90 Resealed both axles 2 years ago, so will probably do it next year.

118K and still runs strong with only a small rear main seal leak and slight oil burning issue. Not bad enough to fix yet

 

[SCOTTYINWV]

If you're cash strapped, I wouldn't bother. I also wouldn't bother if the truck is up around 200-300,000....

About 55k on rebuilt 350/. 030 over

10k on rebuilt trans.

Unsure of diffs and t case, probably untouched with 249k

 

[Sampuppy1]

The Raptor 100/150'is made by Pureflow, same guys who make the Airdog and Airdog II. Fass is the guy who owns Pureflow's father IIRC. Or brother or something like that. Some kind of family split in thier past. Pureflow guy hangs out on completiondieseldotcom (screen name hightone12v IIRC, real name Tony) and has about the hottest wife I've ever seen. She used to be a TS Fuel girl. 4 kids now and i can see why! One lucky sob....

Coolant is what it is. Been running nearly three years without it. Only reason I wanted it was since my block is cast by NAVISTAR. They have a great foundry, but sometimes the shaker doesn't manage to get all the casting sand out. Couple passes usually sorts that out and then the filter runs clean except for the occasional bit of scale. If the truck had standard rubber heater lines the bypass would have been done already. But I can't bring myself to cut the aluminum lines until I can do it properly and make the filter assembly look like it belongs there. Still working that one out....

The engine oil pump is right in spec. Higher flow pump would just mean more bypass since the bypass is built into the block passage. A higher pressure pump would just have a higher bypass spring, but wouldn't work in a 6.5 anyways. Might just starve the sump too. It only carries about 6 quarts. I'm looking to eventually kick out the pan and get it up to a min 10 quarts or so for a diesel. 12 quarts would be better, but not enough room for that. Diesels live and die by thier oil quality even more so than a gasser.

Hadn't thought about an external pump but that doesn't sound viable. Would probably just go with a fs2000 bypass filter first. I'm currently looking to see if I can swap out the jets on the centrifuge to see if it can work effectively with lower pressures than 40 psi. If it doesn't get up to "ludicrous speed rpm", it's pointless. I also have to work out the return line to the pan. Most just mount it on top of the oil fill tube but that looks all "jacked up" to me. The return needs to be about 1.5-2 inches in dia and a straight shot to the pan or I risk backing up and once again, it becomes pointless. That may come to pass when I do the pan "kick outs"

in case you can't tell, a lot of what I do to my personal truck is patterned off the OTR trucks I've worked on.

I work in the trucking industry myself and am seriously considering a career in high performance diesel. I want my own shop. I do a ton of reading have a 3 year paid subscription to diesel power and am looking to switch jobs so I can begin to save for college.
Always so much great Info from your posts.
The coolant filter is always a good thing to have. Especially with out rust prone dexcool systems and great for just **** happens kind of situations. But I can understand the not wanting to hack up a good thing.
As far as the centrifuge they are useless below like 100,000rpms. It's nuts. And with only 6 measly quarts I can totally understand a second pump possibly sucking what little oil the pan has dry. The kick outs are definitely a good plan. Allows room for some custom line fittings and more capacity. I wasn't totally familiar with how these things built up such insane filter speeds but jets would be most efficient. No bearings to overspeed. And virtually limitless speed wise.

One the fence about switching to synthetic fluids...

If you're cash strapped, I wouldn't bother. I also wouldn't bother if the truck is up around 200-300,000....

I switched the day after I bought it with 176,000 miles. I run synthetic in everything from my truck to my parents generator. Call me crazy but the stuff makes a huge difference. My oil used to be black as night when I bough it. 3 oil changes later I could finally see through it again. Now it's a dark brown like molasses. Thinner of course but color wise it's perfect. After 5,000 miles I can see through it still. I love it. And the generator dropped its oil usage for a weeks worth of 12 hour a day use from almost 2 quarts to about a half a quart maybe a little more. No more smoky start ups. It's great.


Tyler/T-Unit

 

[SCOTTYINWV]

Any clue how synthetic holds up to blow by? I'm guessing they didn't index the rings when they installed the pistons in my baby

Can't wait to build my own, that way I'll know EXACTLY what's in it and it'll get full synthetic from the get go. I can get awesome deals on amsoil too... Dunno bout it yet though...

 

[great white]

Any clue how synthetic holds up to blow by? I'm guessing they didn't index the rings when they installed the pistons in my baby

Can't wait to build my own, that way I'll know EXACTLY what's in it and it'll get full synthetic from the get go. I can get awesome deals on amsoil too... Dunno bout it yet though...

Like any other oil except it can deal with a bit more contamination than "regular" oil...

 

[SilveradoGuy85]

Motor Oil: Mobil 1 5w-30
Oil Filter: Mobil 1
Air Filter: K&N with the intake kit. Works great and will be at it's full potential if/when I get a functional cowl hood
Coolant/Antifreeze (switched form Dex-cool to regular), Power Steering Fluid and Brake Fluid: Prestone, not particular on the brand, but they were all together at the parts store so I just got em lol.
Windshield Washer Fluid (what the hell lol): Rain-x 2in1, which works great and once you spray it a few times it's like spraying rain-x on your windshield

I don't know about the transmission fluid or the oil in the transfer case and diffs because I haven't changed any of that yet, but I really need to I know.

 

[Sampuppy1]

Any clue how synthetic holds up to blow by? I'm guessing they didn't index the rings when they installed the pistons in my baby

Can't wait to build my own, that way I'll know EXACTLY what's in it and it'll get full synthetic from the get go. I can get awesome deals on amsoil too... Dunno bout it yet though...

Synthetic has always held up at the very least a little better. An the filter should catch any particulate matter. So a good filter is always the way to go.

Motor Oil: Mobil 1 5w-30
Oil Filter: Mobil 1
Air Filter: K&N with the intake kit. Works great and will be at it's full potential if/when I get a functional cowl hood
Coolant/Antifreeze (switched form Dex-cool to regular), Power Steering Fluid and Brake Fluid: Prestone, not particular on the brand, but they were all together at the parts store so I just got em lol.
Windshield Washer Fluid (what the hell lol): Rain-x 2in1, which works great and once you spray it a few times it's like spraying rain-x on your windshield

I don't know about the transmission fluid or the oil in the transfer case and diffs because I haven't changed any of that yet, but I really need to I know.

I was waiting for washer fluid to come up hahaha

And trans fluid is mainly detergent and a little lubricant 60/40 I believe. So when it starts changing colors it is getting dirty and should be changed in short order. If it gets too dirty it breaks down and trans will heat up more causing further breakdown and excessive wear. Same goes for engine oil. Synthetic resists heat breakdown so it holds up very well for diesel applications where cylinder temps are much higher. Also sticks to metal parts so dry starts are less likely. And detergent levels are greater thus the cleaning of my motor since running it.

I forgot about diffs. They don't have any filters. Just a magnet. And they rarely get checked due to their out of the way locations. Mine went three years unchecked due to a wound in check plug. I finally said screw it and bought an 800 10 bolt cover with a full plug. Painted to match and swapped the fluid. I had been to the dunes all three years and that diff had been submerged more than I'd like to admit to. So when I pulled my old cover I expected the worst. The fluid wasn't bad but my magnet was gone. It was always in the back of my mind and it bothered the hell out of me. Now that I've done it I'm so much happier with the truck. I don't feel bad every time I get in it knowingly ignoring a major issue.
Tyler/T-Unit