Fluids and filtration discussion

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

SAATR

/\___/\___/\___/\___/\
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2010
Messages
2,652
Reaction score
949
Location
Loo E Z an uh
Unless it's so rusted it won't move. This is my problem. Time for new lines or rubber and clamped filter style.


Sent from what is likely a government flagged smartphone. Tyler/T-Unit

Not a problem we have down here. My suggestion would be buying new lines. If you have to go cheap, buy fuel injection rated hose and clamps if you're Vortec, TBI is less critical.

Ego mobili
 

t93k2500

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
96
Reaction score
4
Engine Oil: Amsoil Signature Series 10w-30 (15,000 or 1 yr.)
Oil Filter: Amsoil EAO23

Transmission Fluid: Amsoil Multi- ATF (Dex III) (50,000)
Filter: Wix 58836

Front/ Rear Diffs: Valvoline 80w-90 (50,000)

Power Steering: GM

Coolant: GM

Air Filter: AC Delco A348C (100,000)

Fuel Filter: AC Delco GF652 (50,000)

Gasoline: Mobil 87 (with Techron once annually)

Discussion Topic: I've always run conventional gear lube, as Amsoil states that synthetic gear lube is not compatible with my 14 bolt sf. Why is this?
 

Sampuppy1

Diesel nut
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
10,856
Reaction score
1,223
Location
West MI
Not a problem we have down here. My suggestion would be buying new lines. If you have to go cheap, buy fuel injection rated hose and clamps if you're Vortec, TBI is less critical.

Ego mobili
Vortec here. It's a 97. I need a filter change. I'm thinking its gonna go another year and next winter it will get some attention.
Engine Oil: Amsoil Signature Series 10w-30 (15,000 or 1 yr.)
Oil Filter: Amsoil EAO23

Transmission Fluid: Amsoil Multi- ATF (Dex III) (50,000)
Filter: Wix 58836

Front/ Rear Diffs: Valvoline 80w-90 (50,000)

Power Steering: GM

Coolant: GM

Air Filter: AC Delco A348C (100,000)

Fuel Filter: AC Delco GF652 (50,000)

Gasoline: Mobil 87 (with Techron once annually)

Discussion Topic: I've always run conventional gear lube, as Amsoil states that synthetic gear lube is not compatible with my 14 bolt sf. Why is this?

I switched to synthetic gear oil and my left axle seal started leaking. Not sure if it's coincidence. The right side is perfectly dry. I'm guessing since the rear end was probably low to begin with the seal never had a chance to leak. Now that I refilled and have fresh fluid it's started leaking.

Not sure why it can't go in a 14sf. That's really odd.


Sent from what is likely a government flagged smartphone. Tyler/T-Unit
 

Sampuppy1

Diesel nut
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
10,856
Reaction score
1,223
Location
West MI
Wow. Over a year. Figured I would update this a bit with some findings.

I switched to Valvoline syn power 5w30. Driving force behind this decision was that I literally watched sludge come out of the pan the second oil change I performed on my truck. It was disgusting. I changed it once a week for about a month and it finally ran clean for a full drain interval. After 75,000 miles of having full synthetic in it I tore the engine down to the full short block for some other modifications and found almost no crud in my lifter valley.
You must be registered for see images
I did clean up the lifter keepers and that bolt on plate spring but they had nothing aside from a light brown varnish on them. This engine has 253,000 miles. I also chipped off all the combustion leftovers on top of the pistons. That was a mess. The heads were treated to New valve seals and the truck now burns no oil. Cylinder walls were spotless. Push rods clean. I was sold. So was everyone who saw this engine taken apart. If you don't believe in synthetics on high mileage engines I will be the first to tell you you're crazy.

Also now running a NAPA platinum filter. 10k mile change.

I also finally dropped the volant oiled filter for an AEM dry flow! My volant was.........dirty.
You must be registered for see images




sent from a likely flagged smartphone.
 

Chris6060

I'm Awesome
Joined
Feb 13, 2011
Messages
330
Reaction score
8
Location
Fort St. John, BC, Canada
Engine: Mobil1 Delvac 0w-40 Full Synthetic Diesel Engine Oil + 1L of Lucas Oil Products Full Synthetic Oil Stabilizer.
Axles: ACDelco 80w-90 synthetic.
Power Steering: Whatever brand was cheapest the last time it needed to be filled.
Brake Fluid: Conventional DOT3.
Transmission: Wolfshead Full Synthetic ATF
Coolant: Turbo Power
Oil Filter: HASTINGS (aka BALDWIN), almost religiously. AMSOIL if I can find them, and a WIX as a last resort.
Air Filter is also currently a HASTINGS.
Aaaand the tranny filter is also a HASTINGS.

This truck used to burn oil. Like bad. No matter what I put in it. It would burn it, at a pretty steady rate. Roughly 1L every 1500kms.

Finally tried the diesel oil with the synthetic oil stabilizer because the combination contained more ZINC (stock flat tappet cam) and I liked the idea of the 0 winter weight for the everyday -30 cold starts up here. Love the oil, and it burns 1L every 5000kms now. Been running this oil for close to 40,000kms now and it doesn't even turn black by the 5000km change intervals.

As far as discussion topics?

The w in your oil rating actually stands for WINTER.

When my truck idles, it sputters out black crap out the exhaust all over my Dad's pavement driveway and he doesn't exactly like that. If you rev it up in park/neutral, it SPRAYS black crap. Is this like crazy bad oil blowby or unburned fuel? Running rich? Truck does get absolutely awful fuel mileage.
 
Last edited:

Chris6060

I'm Awesome
Joined
Feb 13, 2011
Messages
330
Reaction score
8
Location
Fort St. John, BC, Canada
Engine Oil: Amsoil Signature Series 10w-30 (15,000 or 1 yr.)
Oil Filter: Amsoil EAO23

Transmission Fluid: Amsoil Multi- ATF (Dex III) (50,000)
Filter: Wix 58836

Front/ Rear Diffs: Valvoline 80w-90 (50,000)

Power Steering: GM

Coolant: GM

Air Filter: AC Delco A348C (100,000)

Fuel Filter: AC Delco GF652 (50,000)

Gasoline: Mobil 87 (with Techron once annually)

Discussion Topic: I've always run conventional gear lube, as Amsoil states that synthetic gear lube is not compatible with my 14 bolt sf. Why is this?

I ran into this same issue. I was going to use Amsoil's Severe Duty full synthetic axle lubricant in my 14b SF rear diff. Its because it has a G80 locker, and the oil already has the positraction additive in it. So I was told anyway.

There was a TSB in the nineties for a few trucks that got the posi friction modifier additive thrown in by accident. It supposedly causes the rear diff to not lock up when it's supposed to.

I personally run ACDelco full synthetic axle lubricant in my rear diff with no additives.
 

Sampuppy1

Diesel nut
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
10,856
Reaction score
1,223
Location
West MI
Engine: Mobil1 Delvac 0w-40 Full Synthetic Diesel Engine Oil + 1L of Lucas Oil Products Full Synthetic Oil Stabilizer.
Axles: ACDelco 80w-90 synthetic.
Power Steering: Whatever brand was cheapest the last time it needed to be filled.
Brake Fluid: Conventional DOT3.
Transmission: Wolfshead Full Synthetic ATF
Coolant: Turbo Power
Oil Filter: HASTINGS (aka BALDWIN), almost religiously. AMSOIL if I can find them, and a WIX as a last resort.
Air Filter is also currently a HASTINGS.
Aaaand the tranny filter is also a HASTINGS.

This truck used to burn oil. Like bad. No matter what I put in it. It would burn it, at a pretty steady rate. Roughly 1L every 1500kms.

Finally tried the diesel oil with the synthetic oil stabilizer because the combination contained more ZINC (stock flat tappet cam) and I liked the idea of the 0 winter weight for the everyday -30 cold starts up here. Love the oil, and it burns 1L every 5000kms now. Been running this oil for close to 40,000kms now and it doesn't even turn black by the 5000km change intervals.

As far as discussion topics?

The w in your oil rating actually stands for WINTER.

When my truck idles, it sputters out black crap out the exhaust all over my Dad's pavement driveway and he doesn't exactly like that. If you rev it up in park/neutral, it SPRAYS black crap. Is this like crazy bad oil blowby or unburned fuel? Running rich? Truck does get absolutely awful fuel mileage.
That's fuel my good man. I have a 97 vortec 350, my exhaust was junk. Cracked in two drivers manifold
You must be registered for see images

I swapped the old manifolds for stainless shorty headers. I had a broken bolt in one of the heads when I bought the truck so I sent them out to have it drilled and I also had the new valve seals installed. This solved my oil burning. I also had rusted out catalytic convertor pipe flanged so they no longer clamped to the manifolds properly and they leaked. This was causing a severe over fueling problem. These trucks saw 16-17mpg in a stock form with my options. I was getting 7.6 or less than half. With the new headers, and new fresh catalytic convertors (high flows) I'm up to almost 14mpg Now with a light foot. 10 if I run hard. The exhaust still needs to be finished. I have a muffler and mid/tail pipes that need to be done. If you have exhaust leaks anywhere before the convertors it's safe to assume the problem can be attributed to that.
I ran into this same issue. I was going to use Amsoil's Severe Duty full synthetic axle lubricant in my 14b SF rear diff. Its because it has a G80 locker, and the oil already has the positraction additive in it. So I was told anyway.

There was a TSB in the nineties for a few trucks that got the posi friction modifier additive thrown in by accident. It supposedly causes the rear diff to not lock up when it's supposed to.

I personally run ACDelco full synthetic axle lubricant in my rear diff with no additives.
I run Amsoil full synthetic in my limited slip with no issues so far. Put over 20k miles on.


sent from a likely flagged smartphone.
 

RyanMerrick

8 Lug
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
1,245
Reaction score
72
Location
CHICAGO
Oil: Mobil 1 5W30 Full Synthetic
- I would also trust Royal Purple or Amsoil, but Mobil 1 is dirt cheap at WalMart

Oil Filter: Royal Purple 30-1218
- I chose Royal Purple based on the build quality and research I've done, they are well made and built strong. Here's an overview video of their manufacturing process and testing here: http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/royal-purple-oil-filters/
- Amsoil also makes a great oil filter, but is more expensive, and virtually identical to the Royal Purple filters in build quality.

Coolant: Prestone Dexcool.

Gasoline: 87 Octane from Shell, Mobil, BP, or Texaco only.

Differential: Will be either a Royal Purple or Amsoil product when it is changed in the Spring.
 

TrailBlazerZ71

I'm Awesome
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
132
Reaction score
14
Location
Las Vegas, NV
All of these are tentative: What i'll run once my truck is... running.. again lol
Oil: Amsoil 10W-30 Signature Synthetic - GM recommends 10W30 in their crate engines, and I've had amazing luck with Amsoil in the past
Coolant: Peak Long-Life
Differentials: Amsoil 75W-90 Severe-Duty Synthetic
Transmission/Transfer Case: Amsoil Signature Synthetic ATF
Power Steering Fluid: Amsoil Synthetic
Brake Fluid: DOT 3 Synthetic
Gasoline: 87 Octane
FILTERS:
Wix Oil Filter
Wix Fuel Filter
Wix Transmission Filter
Volant Air Filter, may swap for K&N universal one
Cardone Power Steering Filter (Not preferred, but I couldn't find anyone else who makes them)
 

Sampuppy1

Diesel nut
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
10,856
Reaction score
1,223
Location
West MI
Anyone else? I'm changing trans fluid over to synthetic and want to change the filter as well but I need to have it flushed to exchange the fluid in the torque converter as well. Should I buy a case of trans fluid, change the filter, top off and bring the rest to the shop to have the flush performed?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
Top