Finally lowered the front 4/6 dropped

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Aarong23

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Never used the Eastwood fender roller.
Only because I've been told to stay the hell away from it. Apparently, it's screwed up more fenders than not.
I've been on here long enough to learn that when the real OG guys (I don't consider myself in that group!) say something's no beuno, they're usually right.
Found that out the few times that I didn't listen to their advice.
For instance, doing a 2/4 drop. They said don't do it. I did anyhow.
...and they were right! Doh!
A proper body hammer & dolly + some patience. Don't try to bend the lip all at once. Took me about 3 runs of hammering in either direction.
Start from the center & work out from there.
Only about 8"-10" (16"-20" total) out from the center is all that needs to be done.
This exactly why I tagged you @sewlow. Lol. I knew you know what to say and to correct me if I was wrong. I can always count on the Canadian friends to line us hillbillies out!
 

96blackswb

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Never used the Eastwood fender roller.
Only because I've been told to stay the hell away from it. Apparently, it's screwed up more fenders than not.
I've been on here long enough to learn that when the real OG guys (I don't consider myself in that group!) say something's no beuno, they're usually right.
Found that out the few times that I didn't listen to their advice.
For instance, doing a 2/4 drop. They said don't do it. I did anyhow.
...and they were right! Doh!
A proper body hammer & dolly + some patience. Don't try to bend the lip all at once. Took me about 3 runs of hammering in either direction.
Start from the center & work out from there.
Only about 8"-10" (16"-20" total) out from the center is all that needs to be done.
Got a question for u bro want to know if u know anything about it I’m wanting to do a 6 lug swap on my truck and I found a 95 2500 2wd truck that’s 6 lug and was wondering will it bolt right up to my truck and will it be the same length and would I have to modify it to bolt it up to my truck for it to work I know the front is just swapping to the 2500 rotors but any info would help I’m wanting to run the newer 6 lug wheels to my truck like the snowflake reps or the Cadillac reps wheels like that
 

sewlow

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Got a question for u bro want to know if u know anything about it I’m wanting to do a 6 lug swap on my truck and I found a 95 2500 2wd truck that’s 6 lug and was wondering will it bolt right up to my truck and will it be the same length and would I have to modify it to bolt it up to my truck for it to work I know the front is just swapping to the 2500 rotors but any info would help I’m wanting to run the newer 6 lug wheels to my truck like the snowflake reps or the Cadillac reps wheels like that

I've never done that, but there are some members here that have.
IIRC from reading what others have posted, 6 lug diffs are wider, spring perches are in the same spot, but you will need a conversion U-joint.
As for actual specifics. part #'s, different wheel offsets, etc. I just don't know.
 

RQ Jay

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Looks great, I have a few questions -
How hard do you think this would have been without removing the bed?
When you replaced the front end, did you replace ball joints/upper control arms? Not that it is required, but figured I would do the work myslef while I was there...

Glad to hear the ride is good, i have the Belltech 4/6 drop kit with the Street Performance shocks as well - looking to install it here in AZ , but really waiting for the temperature to go above 116 first....lol I am just kidding.
\
 

96blackswb

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Looks great, I have a few questions -
How hard do you think this would have been without removing the bed?
When you replaced the front end, did you replace ball joints/upper control arms? Not that it is required, but figured I would do the work myslef while I was there...

Glad to hear the ride is good, i have the Belltech 4/6 drop kit with the Street Performance shocks as well - looking to install it here in AZ , but really waiting for the temperature to go above 116 first....lol I am just kidding.
\
The bed was really easy to remove and I would definitely remove it because it will be ALOT easier to do, it’s only 8 bolts and u unplug the taillights and unbolt the gas filler neck and ground wires which is just two I believe one by the gas filler neck and the other is the wires by the rear bumper, my brother and I picked up the whole bed by ourselves
 

96blackswb

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Looks great, I have a few questions -
How hard do you think this would have been without removing the bed?
When you replaced the front end, did you replace ball joints/upper control arms? Not that it is required, but figured I would do the work myslef while I was there...

Glad to hear the ride is good, i have the Belltech 4/6 drop kit with the Street Performance shocks as well - looking to install it here in AZ , but really waiting for the temperature to go above 116 first....lol I am just kidding.
\
And the front all I replaced was the front seals and bearings and the sway bar links my ball joints are still good for now I am going to buy the front control arms from summit so it helps will the ballpoint angle but the Mcgaughys spindles didn’t push my wheels out any it kept it the same I just hit the stock spindle u get the ball joints out of it And it didn’t ruin the ball joints but I’m going to replace them after I put the new upper control arms for summit on but for now my truck drives and runs the same as if I didn’t lower it at all
 

96blackswb

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I drove around for like 4 months with my bed off but never had the time to put it all back on plus I was waiting for my friend to weld my c notch to my frame I talk to a lot of people that said the cnotch was fine with just the bolts to the cnotch but I wanted it welded on the inside and outer corners and sides for just piece of mind so it wouldn’t stress crack or anything not to say it would but what the hell weld it lol when u go to put the bed back on I strongly recommend taking the read bumper off if your going to man handle it so u don’t end up scratching your paint on the bed when putting it back on or use some covers or something on the cab and bumper when putting it back on but the bed was really easy to remove and I bought new bed bolts from Lowe’s and replaced them with new ones
 

96blackswb

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There are 3 upper control arms I’m looking at the ride tech ones which are 500 something and switch control arms I think they are 300 something and the summit racing control arms and they are 300 something and I think I’m going with the summit racing ones because They look just like the ride tech ones and they are beefy looking and I would like to get the summit racing lower control arms but they are like 600 and I don’t think I want to spend that much just for some control arms but they look better than the stock ones that’s for sure
 

sewlow

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Looks great, I have a few questions -
How hard do you think this would have been without removing the bed?
When you replaced the front end, did you replace ball joints/upper control arms? Not that it is required, but figured I would do the work myslef while I was there...

Glad to hear the ride is good, i have the Belltech 4/6 drop kit with the Street Performance shocks as well - looking to install it here in AZ , but really waiting for the temperature to go above 116 first....lol I am just kidding.
\

I installed UCA & LCA urethane bushings in the stock arms, along with a complete front end rebuild.
The aftermarket arms come with urethane bushings.
I threw in a 454SS Q/R steering box, too.
 
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