Figuring out Tahoe 2door suspension...

[Moresnowdays]

I'm new to the forum, and I recently purchased a 98 tahoe 2door. Love the truck, but need some advice on setting it up. After I bought it I wanted to get mechanically in order, so I took it to my family mechanic. They replaced a ball joint, tie rod, sway bar connectors, pitman arm, stabilzer arm and a cv shaft. The back sat to low, so I had them install 2.5 inch rear lift blocks (guessing how much I might need). These are some pics of the current set up.

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I need shocks all around and and an alignment, but want to get the suspension set first. I like how it sits, but a bit much rake perhaps? I think I'm almost at 2.5 inch rake, and actually want 2 inch. I was previously measuring ground to bottom of wheel well front and back. I didn't realize the rear wheel well is an inch lower than the front by design of the body, so now I'm adding an inch to the rear measurement. Hope that sounds right. I'm also learning about the torsion bars and I'm not sure if this is to much crank put on by the previous owner?

I'm wondering if I really should un-crank the front end a bit and drop down to 1.5 inch blocks? I like the height now, but don't want to ruin the front end either.

 

[Moresnowdays]

Any thoughts on my rake or suspension angles?

 

[CrustyJunker]

I ran 1.5" blocks and a level crank in my old 2 door Tahoe, had it perfectly level front to back. I would do it all over again. Still rode like stock with good CV angles. My first stepside rode terribly rough with the bars maxed out and 2" blocks, borderline binding CV angles at lock - bad for off road. Current truck also has same rough riding, fair CV angles (not maxed out, but was already cranked up some when purchased). Also note that my Tahoe did not have as much adjustment as my pickup trucks.

 

[Moresnowdays]

Good to know you had correct angles with 1.5 blocks. I want some rake so I assume if I used those blocks or 2" I would think I would be good.

For a frame of reference, can you tell from the pics I posted if the angles on my front end look severe or acceptable?

 

[Moresnowdays]

Looking around the internet and here, I find pics of front ends that look like they have worse angles than my CV shafts.

What I really want to should I leave these alone or lower it some? And either way should I go with the Bilstein 4600 or 5100 shock?

 

[CrustyJunker]

If it rides okay, you can leave it alone. Usually the rough ride coincides with bad ball joint angles, too. The angles don't look bad to me in your pictures. If your CV boots aren't stretched or torn, it's probably fine. I've heard many good things about the 5100 shocks, but I have not run them. Someone else might have to chime in on the 4600's. Nice truck!

 

[Moresnowdays]

Thanks Crustyjunker! I've read good things about 4600 & 5100's. The issue is I've read that I need to use the 4600 because I have a stock front end, only TB cranked. Some have said that because of TB cranked up I need to use a 5100. Looking to hear if some one is using one or the other with the TB Cranked up...

 

[CrustyJunker]

Both should be good choices, Bilstein is a reputable brand. I'm not sure what your truck plans are. I ran stock shocks on my Tahoe with mild wheeling, flat towed 3,000-10,000 lbs. maybe 4 times a year (car hauling, heavier stuff was farm use - off highway).

At stock-ish ride height, I don't think you'll have much to worry about. If you were going substantially taller with a 4"+ lift, or tires larger than a 35, I'd recommend the 5100 for better load control if towing, or better tire control over bumps and stability with increased center of gravity.

The 4600 would be acceptable, too. 2-doors have a reasonably stiff spring rate from the factory for such a short wheelbase vehicle. My reg cab stepside rear suspension with add-a-leafs is still much softer than my 2 door was. I'm not sure if your truck is equipped with a rear sway bar. My '96 was not.

 

[Moresnowdays]

No rear sway bar in mine either. I wish I went with 285's, but I just put these 265/75-16's on. Next time... I would like to do a full frame off restoration in about 5 years, but in the meantime it will stay as is.

Kind of Happy to know the 2 doors had a stiff spring rate. I don't know if mine rides harder than stock with the amount of cranking currently, as I have nothing to compare it with. I thought it was a bit stiff but not bad. I'm guessing lowering it wouldn't change it much then.

 

[Moresnowdays]

So here is my issue now. I installed the rear 5100's, no problem. Got the old shocks out of the front. I took the Bilstein 4600 for my front and put in the top bolt. When I went below to hook up the bottom I found that the shock was fully extended, and only needed to come up maybe a 1/2 inch to fit in the lower bracket. That is with my truck just sitting on the tires, not jacked up or anything.

I'm thinking there is no way I can run these 4600's (part# 24-104050). They will have to top out over just about every bump. What options do I have?