You need more than the average service manual to remove this.
You will want to color code every wire and what circuit it impacts before you cut anything.
Cut one thing in the wrong order or cause a short without proper care, can be very expensive.
First thing is Air Bags:
Yellow Sheath protected wires should never be cut or the bag goes boom.
The process for unplugging the airbag system is very strict or you can get very hurt.
It also may require being reset, so it works correctly after it has been messed with or may fail when you need it. When it blows, your seat belt activation system will be blown as well. they are connected.
Let's hope the Yellow Wire Sheaths are not involved whatsoever.
That is not the risk I speak of...
If it is an alarm, and you do not have $3000.00 wheels and tires, I would strongly consider removing the thing before it causes you to get stuck somewhere. (There I said it...)
HOWEVER: If you don't know what you are doing, get somebody to look it over who is excellent with automotive wiring repairs to do it for you. Excellent... not kinda good.
If you do not disconnect power PROPERLY, which may include draining circuit voltage from hidden capacitors, disconnecting the primary and secondary ECM's, (in the correct order), before you cut or interrupt some hack-mod, you could end up with a bigger mess or hurt your computer or your dash gauges diode circuit, with accidental dead short.
None of this is in the Service Manuals. The service manuals do not explain how to remove a hacked electrical system. They can assist with normal repairs, but years of experience is what you want here.
Just unplugging the alarm module could cause a spark across the usually poor designed connector circuit of these hack alarms. These things are famous for damaging electrical systems.
If you accidentally blow your gauge cluster diode, Rock Auto wants $350 for a re-manufactured cluster, with a core charge, last I looked. When the hidden internal diode blows, the battery runs down and ends up dead from parasitic draw every 2 days. It can be very expensive to diagnose for the unfamiliar GM mechanic...
The proper Fluke micro voltage amp meter probe to detect the parasitic drain is not affordable for most home mechanics and the cheap ones do NOT work. The affordable local corner repair shop might not have one for the first $300 diagnostics charges, either... after they buy one, find the diode is bad and replace your cluster, it can easily be $600-$700 OR MORE.
If you are running an AGM battery and you kill it 2-3 times all the way dead, (because the diode is shot), now your AGM is shot too. Some AGM batteries will not tolerate being drained at all. There's another $250.00
The computer is $190 and will require reprogramming if you hit it.
The wiring diagram is your friend and it is not for the feint of heart.
What you have there is a can of worms, if you are not absolutely certain what you are doing.
Sometimes doing nothing, is the best solution, if you do not comprehend the risk with the repair and this is one of those moments. Even a seasoned mechanic can get this wrong, but a shop will have insurance if they blow the cluster or stick you with the added costs of the cluster and a replacement ECM.
You have to plan this carefully is what I'm saying. Trace every circuit and KNOW what it does and where it goes before you screw it up.
Do NOT pull the alarm harness to module connector, with power enabled.
You may have to disconnect the battery for several days before all the residual voltages are properly drained, the way GM designed the circuitry in there.
