Everything hooked up, no wet plug? TBI 350 not vortec

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RHamill

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If you tighten the rockers down too tight you can get to the point where your valves stay open all the time. Compression would be low (if any) and you would not get fuel to those cylinders.

I get the feeling the heads on this engine and the others are over adjusted, someone got crazy when adjusting the lash.
 

lkfldredneck

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How did adjusting the valves out on the driver's side effect fuel getting into a cylinder on the passenger side?
Not sure, but thats what happened.
If you tighten the rockers down too tight you can get to the point where your valves stay open all the time. Compression would be low (if any) and you would not get fuel to those cylinders.
True, but when we backed the rockers off the compression was the same
 

lkfldredneck

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I get the feeling the heads on this engine and the others are over adjusted, someone got crazy when adjusting the lash.

We have a system we go off of. When the push rod grabs (oiled and white greased on push rod top) and is hard to move, but still moveable (as in rotating) we tighten 3/4 of a turn. its been the same on every chevy motor we've done and it should have worked this time. unless somehow this time was different, such as lifter being siezed it wouldnt, but everything was good..
 

SAATR

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If you had a collapsed or stuck lifter it would show up on a compression test, pure and simple, because you would have bad numbers on all cylinders or a wild variation between cylinders. You keep going back to seized lifters, but keep reiterating that you had good compression both before and after you adjusted the driver's side valves out 3/4 of a turn. If the injectors are firing a good pattern and fuel pressure is where it's supposed to be, then all you are left with is spark or spark timing. I say that not only because of the compression test, but because you say it doesn't try to hit at all. If it had strong and well timed spark, coupled with the fuel and compression that you say it has, then you should at least get a backfire, afterfire, pop, or something. When I was a kid, I tried to adjust the valves on the 305 in my '79 Chevy. I DID adjust the piss out of them as Ryan mentioned, and bent nearly every valve in the motor, but it still spit and sputtered and tried to hit on a few cylinders.
 

RHamill

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I cant even remember what the complaint is anymore? does this thing crank and no start?

You dont want soaking wet plugs, thats called 'flooding'.
 

lkfldredneck

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If you had a collapsed or stuck lifter it would show up on a compression test, pure and simple, because you would have bad numbers on all cylinders or a wild variation between cylinders. You keep going back to seized lifters, but keep reiterating that you had good compression both before and after you adjusted the driver's side valves out 3/4 of a turn. If the injectors are firing a good pattern and fuel pressure is where it's supposed to be, then all you are left with is spark or spark timing. I say that not only because of the compression test, but because you say it doesn't try to hit at all. If it had strong and well timed spark, coupled with the fuel and compression that you say it has, then you should at least get a backfire, afterfire, pop, or something. When I was a kid, I tried to adjust the valves on the 305 in my '79 Chevy. I DID adjust the piss out of them as Ryan mentioned, and bent nearly every valve in the motor, but it still spit and sputtered and tried to hit on a few cylinders.

if the timing was off by 180, and sparking after fuel is pushed out of the cylinder, would it even bump, spit or sputter?

Plug wires are correct i know for sure, i got it off the first time by 1, i stuck with the firing order but i was back one and it led to having a short wire at the front and a long wire at the back. i checked the Light truck & van maintenance book, and noticed i was wrong on the plug wires then corrected.
 

lkfldredneck

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I cant even remember what the complaint is anymore? does this thing crank and no start?

You dont want soaking wet plugs, thats called 'flooding'.

It cranks, everything works fine, injectors "inject", plugs spark, but it doesnt spit or sputter. and i know the plugs shouldnt be soaking wet, the problem is they dont smell like gas or anything. just the oil i put on the threads when i installed them
 

SAATR

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It should do something. It should at least try to hit on a cylinder or two, and pop or at least make the sound change while the engine is cranking. You'll usually hear the load on the starter change when it hits at the wrong time, like the engine is speeding up and slowing down. That's why I'm leaning toward the spark not being strong enough to fire the plug under load, because you say it isn't changing.
 

lkfldredneck

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It should do something. It should at least try to hit on a cylinder or two, and pop or at least make the sound change while the engine is cranking. You'll usually hear the load on the starter change when it hits at the wrong time, like the engine is speeding up and slowing down. That's why I'm leaning toward the spark not being strong enough to fire the plug under load, because you say it isn't changing.

this is stumping me and my dad, him being involved in motors for more than 30 somethin years. when the plug is out, it has strong spark, like stronger than the old plugs that used to run it. ill set the gap tomorrow and test, but what i dont get is why non of them smell like gas! :banghead:
 

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^^^ this.

When you stabbed tge distributor you out on tdc of the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke right? It can be easy to get in a hurry and forget that it needs to be on the compression stroke. I did it just the other day.

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