Electrical nightmare due to jumper cables

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Did you check your big ground wires/straps, battery to fender, battery to front of engine, engine to frame, back of right head to firewall? It sounds like one or more of those is bad and the only path to ground is through your smaller ground wires.
I replaced all.
Frame to cab , cab to block
And i even added an additional strap (block to frame).

The negative coming from the battery is bolted up to one of the intake manifold studs since the two holes on the block arnt threaded.

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sntrym

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TBI trucks don't have that radiator wire... They have the junction block on the firewall next to the overflow bottle. And they don't have power to the transmission either lol. The only power to manuals is for the reverse switch.

I've had 3 TBI trucks and they all have had the fuse block on the driver's side in front of the firewall. They are all 94-95, so maybe it was originally on the pass side in 88 but I assure you that wire runs across the radiator on at least some TBI trucks.
 

sntrym

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I replaced all.
Frame to cab , cab to block
And i even added an additional strap (block to frame).

The negative coming from the battery is bolted up to one of the intake manifold studs since the two holes on the block arnt threaded.

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Electrons have to go somewhere - the path of least resistance. So I would say you likely have a short somewhere that you can't see due to melted wires. You'll have to dig into that dash wiring in all likelihood.
 
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Electrons have to go somewhere - the path of least resistance. So I would say you likely have a short somewhere that you can't see due to melted wires. You'll have to dig into that dash wiring in all likelihood.
Im going to start in the dash wiring on the driver side. I really thing its in the bulkhead connector or somewhere close

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Twin_Flyer

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Did you have the alternator tested for shorts? might be a long shot but current goes through it. Should have a regulator inside?
 

JeremyNH

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The negative coming from the battery is bolted up to one of the intake manifold studs since the two holes on the block arnt threaded.

That's not a good main ground. The intake manifold gasket and valley seals are rubberized so the only metal contact to block is through the manifold bolts which have thread sealant on them, the majority of which have very high electrical resistance, giving you a resistive main ground. The starting motor is chassis grounded to the block so you need the battery negative to go directly to the block without use of a thread sealant. You likely have a main ground return to battery that is highly resistive so ground return is through the single #10 battery to chassis ground. That won't support the 500 amps the starting motor draws.
 
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That's not a good main ground. The intake manifold gasket and valley seals are rubberized so the only metal contact to block is through the manifold bolts which have thread sealant on them, the majority of which have very high electrical resistance, giving you a resistive main ground. The starting motor is chassis grounded to the block so you need the battery negative to go directly to the block without use of a thread sealant. You likely have a main ground return to battery that is highly resistive so ground return is through the single #10 battery to chassis ground. That won't support the 500 amps the starting motor draws.
That is true. I just got done getting the battery tested. It shows proper volts vut the test failed. Ima get a longer ground to find another hole on the block to ground it to


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Did you have the alternator tested for shorts? might be a long shot but current goes through it. Should have a regulator inside?
Could i ground the battery to the same spot on the passenger side where it grounds with the cab?

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RichLo

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How about ground it to the block and spider web the chassis and frame grounds from that point
 
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