Eaton Govloc/Mloc

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Never had a problem with my Eaton posi. Truck is a stick with N2O and I dumped the clutch many times with it. 10 Bolts can live with good parts. Any thing past 600 to the wheels time to get a 9" If you running slicks or a drag radial. I'll be using my 10 bolt for my ls build so I will get the improved main caps / girdle a good Motive gear ring and pinion along with axles.
 

someotherguy

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Fairly certain that in this case, the desired "low" ratio is low numerically--3.08--rather than low-gear/high numerical.
Yeah, I figured since OP stated he wanted to keep 3.08's and my reply is that the "lowest" I've seen in the 9.5" was 3.42, others would understand I meant numerically low. You get it, but the others.. c'mon y'all. :Big Laugh:

Richard
 

Scooterwrench

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Never had a problem with my Eaton posi. Truck is a stick with N2O and I dumped the clutch many times with it. 10 Bolts can live with good parts. Any thing past 600 to the wheels time to get a 9" If you running slicks or a drag radial. I'll be using my 10 bolt for my ls build so I will get the improved main caps / girdle a good Motive gear ring and pinion along with axles.
Thanks for the confidence boost.
Kinda like building rifles using the 93 Mauser action. Everyone says they'll blow up but I've built several high powered rifles with absolutely no issues.
I've been studying reviews on the Auburn Gear diffs and people seem to love 'em.
 

1989GMCSIERRA

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I’ve been running a Auburn in my 89 since about 98. I’ve ran 33s and 35s on it. Absolutely no issue. Still works fine no issues . The Auburn is also rebuildable
 

kennythewelder

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There are 4 basic choices, when it comes to lockers. True positive traction. This mean that when you turn a corner, the other tire will drag, and chirp, BC the wheels are locked together, by ether s posi spool, or welding the spider gears. Then you have what is refered to as lunch box lockers. They replace your original spider gears, with a chunk, that has a gear system, that locks the axels, as needed. Good for off road applications. Then you have true limiter slip. These use clutches to lock the axels for positive traction, as needed. There is also an Eaton truetrac. This is somewhat similar to the clutch base limited slip, but uses helix gears, instead of clutches. Personally, I have an Eaton truetrac in my 97 Silverado, with a Vortec 350, with about 325 HP. I rebuilt the rear end 2 years ago, in February. It does good in the street, but, I accidentally drive off of the end of my driveway, ( this put 1 tire off of the ground, as it was in the ditch, and was touching, nothing) and I couldn't drive the truck out, on its own. I had to pull it out, with my wife's 4runner. And I also have a 1979 Corvette, with the OE positraction limited slip, rear end. Both my truck, and my Vette will burn up both tires, no problem. The Vette is around 400 HP, at the tires, so IDK, maybe 475, at the crank. It's a beast. The reason I choose the truetrac was that, it's not going to need new clutches. That being said, I just rebuilt the rear end, for my Vette, and with 70,000 original miles, the clutches, and springs look fine, so I didn't replace them. If you want the easiest to set up, the lunch box lockers, are the way to go, but they can be noisy. They tend to click as the axel gears pass by the spool gears. My truetrac, does tend to clank, sometimes. Not loud, or anything, but there is a clank, there. I heard the same noise from a friend who has a 1965 GTO. Also a truetrac. LOL, I hear it when I go to Whataburger. Something about the tilt of there drive through, IDK. The Vette makes zero noise. Thrutracs are good for a lot of HP. Have another friend who had 1 in his 68 Mustang, Elenore clone. 865 HP, at the tires. If your under 500 HP, just about any of the limited slip, or lunch box lockers should be fine. Before I bought the truetrac, I looked hard at the powertrax sure grip. My car show buddies, all said the truetrac is the way to go, and for my set up some 373 gears. They were rite. It is the rite choice for me. But, basically, your looking at a rear end rebuild, to do the swap, and you have to get the correct bearings for the truetrac.
 

OutlawDrifter

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OTOH, the 8.5" axle in a full-size truck has a poor reputation. Even the "open" differentials explode.

Mostly all I ever hear is anecdotal 2nd hand "well my buddy blew one up" stories.

I grew up farming/ranching in western Nebraska with mostly 1/2t GM products...and have never had axle issues. This includes towing overloaded, getting through the snow and mud, and being a juvenile delinquent :Big Laugh:

When just flat out abused and neglected, anything becomes a weak link.
 

Scooterwrench

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Thanks guys,
I'm going to stay with my 8.5 and give the Auburn a whirl. I don't intend to be drag racing but I know when I put that 355 in there with the lower first of the 700R4 that the one wheel wonder syndrome is going to be a PITA.
 

Pinger

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Then you have true limiter slip. These use clutches to lock the axels for positive traction, as needed. There is also an Eaton truetrac. This is somewhat similar to the clutch base limited slip, but uses helix gears, instead of clutches.
There is a fundamental difference though between a clutched LSD and the type that use helix gears. The first is speed sensitive (detects difference in wheel speeds and reacts) the second is torque sensitive (has the ability to send a multiple of torque that the wheel with the least traction has to the wheel with better traction - typically in a ratio of three to four).
Four times zero is still zero though ie, if one wheel has zero traction (zero torque) then the other one will be the same. There has to be some traction on the wheel with the least traction for effective drive to the other wheel.


Personally, I have an Eaton truetrac in my 97 Silverado, with a Vortec 350, with about 325 HP. I rebuilt the rear end 2 years ago, in February. It does good in the street, but, I accidentally drive off of the end of my driveway, ( this put 1 tire off of the ground, as it was in the ditch, and was touching, nothing) and I couldn't drive the truck out, on its own. I had to pull it out, with my wife's 4runner.
Which is why you got stuck! when you dropped a wheel in the ditch.
 

1989GMCSIERRA

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Mostly all I ever hear is anecdotal 2nd hand "well my buddy blew one up" stories.

I grew up farming/ranching in western Nebraska with mostly 1/2t GM products...and have never had axle issues. This includes towing overloaded, getting through the snow and mud, and being a juvenile delinquent :Big Laugh:

When just flat out abused and neglected, anything becomes a weak link.


My 89 has the original axle. It’s been rebuilt once because I regeared it. As long as you don’t get stupid those axles are fine. If yiu get stupid y can break anything because everything has a limit.
 
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