Drop opinions--

[Nvr2Low]

The kit comes with a notch, & the extenders. The sway bar bushings ae cheap. Under $20.00 each for the front & rear pairs. If your doing all this work, get a urethane bushing kit. You can install the rear bushings when you do the flip. The body mounts are the easiest. Before I lowered the front of mine, I got some used lower A-arms & had the new bushings put into them. I have to pay for hoist time, so this really sped things up.

Appreciate the info man!

 

[sewlow]

Hey, no problem.
The kit will come with the front bushings for the stock sway bar size. The rears you'll have to buy seperate.
I believe the 'Helwigs' come with the bushings.

 

[DRAGGIN95]

Yeah like mentioned above the flip kit comes with shock extender's and the c- notch's but you could sell the c- notch's on Craigslist or something, and yes you definitly need the carrier bearing spacer, I make my own, I use 2x2 1/4 wall tubing and measure your carrier bearing make the spacer just a little longer and drill 2 holes in the tubing add 2 new grade 8 longer bolt's, I have $6 in mine, and they charge $50-60 for the same thing as I made. When I bought my Belltech sway bar it came with all the new poly bushing's. So you need DJM 2 in drop spring's, DJM 2 in drop spindle's, new front shock's, rear DJM flip kit, new rear shock's, AVS notch, carrier bearing spacer, rear sway bar kit, front sway bar with poly bushing's and poly end link's. I think that's it.

 

[Nvr2Low]

Yeah like mentioned above the flip kit comes with shock extender's and the c- notch's but you could sell the c- notch's on Craigslist or something, and yes you definitly need the carrier bearing spacer, I make my own, I use 2x2 1/4 wall tubing and measure your carrier bearing make the spacer just a little longer and drill 2 holes in the tubing add 2 new grade 8 longer bolt's, I have $6 in mine, and they charge $50-60 for the same thing as I made. When I bought my Belltech sway bar it came with all the new poly bushing's. So you need DJM 2 in drop spring's, DJM 2 in drop spindle's, new front shock's, rear DJM flip kit, new rear shock's, AVS notch, carrier bearing spacer, rear sway bar kit, front sway bar with poly bushing's and poly end link's. I think that's it.

Awesome information man! I really appreciate it. I'm gonna write it all down, and slowly piece everything together that I need for it instead of spending a big chunk of change all at once. lol
--Josh

 

[MOBS]

Not to worry ya any, but I noticed something about "stock sway bar sized bushing". When i went to order new bushings for my work truck(96 ecsb), the sway bar mount bushings came in 3 sizes for 3 different thicknesses of bars. I can't remember the sizes, I know 2 were metric and one english measurement, I had to get the micrometer out and mine ended up using the 30mm size.

Update: The 3 sizes listed are 30mm(1-3/16"), 32mm(1-1/4"), & 33mm(1-5/16").

It might not look like a big difference, but if the bar doesn't fit just right, it can cause a very stiff ride(if too tight), or it can beat the hell outta the new bushings(if too loose). Just something to look out for man. Also, although removing a load leaf does give you drop, it also lessens the control you have over "axle walk". Which is where your axle wants to move before your vehicle does.

 

[sewlow]

There's a whole science involving sway bars. Solid vs. hollow. Front/rear diameters matched for the vehicle & it's useage, etc. All designed on computers.
Too big in the front, & the truck will 'push' in the corners, because the tires are not able to plant themselves through weight transfer.
Too big in the rear, & the truck will get 'tail-happy' over stutter bumps, railroad tracks, & during hard braking.
I am by no means an expert on this stuff. Just what I've learned through trial & error.
I'd use the big sway bar. That's me. It may not be 'right', but keeping the front end from falling over itself, inspires confidence in the corners. Plus, I only have a 6, so it doesn't have the weight of a V8 to make it push as much in the twisties. The lighter 6 is easier to make change direction. It just doesn't have enough balls to pull itself out of 'em with any real authority!
Ultimately, the best choice would be an aftermarket matched set, designed for the vehicle, & what the final usage will be.
I have the largest factory sway bar on the front, & one off of a Suburban on the rear. Only because I'm tend to be a wrecker rat. They were there & the price was right. (read...cheap!)
Even still, with the other suspension mods, I've been able to generate .95 of a 'G'. That's according to my G-Tech Pro. How accurate that is, is debatable. The limiting factors keeping me away from the magical 1'G', are my tires, &, probably, the sway bars.
Fastorange's sway bars are probably the ultimate set-up, but he's back to work, & has a new Babba-Lou, so he hasn't been around for a while to answer any Q's on this. I can't remember what brand his are. Helwig, Belltech, or? Maybe in some of his pix, you can see that set-up.

 

[Nvr2Low]

Thats for the great write-ups guys! Really appreciate all the information! Ready to get this crew sitting closer to mother-Earth!
--Josh

 

[Later Delvin]

I have had different experience then a few of the guys that have posted with lowering OBS trucks. I just sold a 96 Ext cab that was lowered 5/8. I made a custom notch and used Belltech spindles, cut front coils, Belltech flip, Belltech carrier bearing relocator modified to not cut the cab, Belltech shackles, Belltech shock extenders, Belltech front Nitro 2 shocks, Monroe rear shocks and a modified NBS McGaughys helper bag kit. Even with that large amount of drop I did not have to touch the bed floor crossmemeber. Yeah, some times the pumkin hit it but it wasn't worth ruining the bed. I also did not have to relocate any part of the brake lines on the rear end.

Here's a few quick pics to give you an idea of the drop. It is very driver friendly if you know how to drive a lowered vehicle.

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I just picked up a 99 Tahoe and my lowering parts should be in the first of this week, I am excited to get it sitting right. Good luck with your build and I look forward to seeing the progress

 

[MOBS]

Your leafs must've been in excellent shape, I know mine weren't, took 4" lowering to get that low in the rear haha.