Damned "freeze" plugs

[nhyrum]

So I'm doing the freeze plugs in my 4.3 2wd 95 c1500. Before I got it, the two, easy to get to, plugs were replaced. This was a little more than a year ago. A few months ago, I noticed drips of coolant. Yep, another plug, gone bad, this one, thanks to the engineers at gm, right behind the motor mounts. I've got it hooked up to a cherry picker, and got the bad plug out, but at this point, I'm tempted to just yank the damned thing out, and replace the three in the rear (and yes, either way, both plugs behind motor mounts are getting replaced). How difficult is it to disconnect the trans (the oops all neutrals, 4l60e) and pull just the motor, other than "disconnect everything and pull it"? I've never pulled a motor before, but I'm fairly mechanical and methodical, taking pictures, labeling everything removed, etc.

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[Hipster]

It's easier and quicker for me to pull it with the trans and separate them on the floor with 2wd then the alignment issues doing just the engine and the 150 times up, in, and under truck especially if your trying to do this solo. It's a good time to do rear main seal oil pan gasket etc. Maybe a pump.

 

[nhyrum]

I think I'll leave it all in the truck. Hammering on the not leaking freeze plug, it isn't piercing it as easily as the bad one (for now). The ones in the back, getting l being kind of shielded from road grime I hope are in better shape. If they go, then I guess it's time she gets a 350.

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[nhyrum]

Any tips on getting the plugs behind the mounts in? I've not got much room at all, and can't get the frame brackets off to get more room

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[Hipster]

Any tips on getting the plugs behind the mounts in? I've not got much room at all, and can't get the frame brackets off to get more room

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Yeah, take the engine out in 2 hours, clean up, and drive them in nice, or eff around for days hoping the ones you half-arse drive in don't go to leaking..


Sometimes the short cut is the long way to get things done.

 

[nhyrum]

Care to enlighten me on getting it out in two hours? I've not got 4x4(to get in the way) or ac. Just disconnect the few electrical connectors, fuel, cooler lines, pull rad, disconnect shift linkage, pull the ps mounting bracket, and come out the front? I've already got the fan and belt off.

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[Schurkey]

Don't forget torque converter bolts and bellhousing bolts. If you leave the trans connected, you have to put a pretty ferocious tilt on the engine/trans to get it out, and that means the front end of the vehicle needs to be jacked way up. I'd rather leave the trans in the vehicle, supported by a floor jack and block of wood under the trans pan, so it doesn't rip the mount at the rear. Others disagree.

Drain the coolant via the block drains--which means pulling the knock sensor, and maybe breaking the "crust" of deposits with a Philips screwdriver crammed into the open hole.

Replace EVERY core plug, they've all been bathing in the same worn-out, corrosive coolant. There's all sorts of sealers that will work perfectly fine. I've been using 271 "Red Loctite" thread locker. Before that, I used epoxy. Some guys like gasket sealers--Gasgacinch, High Tack, Indian Head, #1, #2, or #3 Permatex, etc. DO NOT use RTV Silicone, or Teflon pipe thread sealer.

Good luck finding "new" rubber motor mounts. They're all Chinese, stamped from THIN sheetmetal. I re-used my 300,000 mile mounts rather than spend money for brand-new defective product.

 

[Hipster]

Care to enlighten me on getting it out in two hours? I've not got 4x4(to get in the way) or ac. Just disconnect the few electrical connectors, fuel, cooler lines, pull rad, disconnect shift linkage, pull the ps mounting bracket, and come out the front? I've already got the fan and belt off.

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Well Shurkey and I differ on how we would do it and that's ok. I pull just the engine on 4wd. I pull with the trans if I can because I can separate the trans/converter and bolt everything back up with minimal fuss and have less then 20 minutes into that part of the job without having to climb in/under the truck. You do need a load leveler on your hoist though. I disconnect everything from the attachment points. Ie hoses@ the rad, Hoses from steering box, disconnect electrical/ grounds/ linkages ets. Pull it out fully dressed, baggy rubber banded on to the tailshaft housing if you don't have the proper plug, with the hoses and trans cooler lines and exhaust manifolds brackets /accessories, everything, and then deal with what I need to for access. Take it with the manifolds. It's easier to tap a thread in the manifold flange then a broken bolt in a head. Yes , you could have it out in about 2 hours and about the same going in, but once out you can do the plugs with minimal fuss and inventing new expletive's. Once it's out, it's all in front of you to work on. You won't be ass-ended over a fender or laying on your back working above your head.

Shurkey is also correct in saying to replace all them. Quite a few times I have seen the rear block core plugs be the first to go. Do it once or ten more times the hard way.

 

[Steve A]

You might consider using the brass core plugs instead of the regular steel ones, should make it even longer before any might need to be replaced again.

 

[nhyrum]

You might consider using the brass core plugs instead of the regular steel ones, should make it even longer before any might need to be replaced again.

I did use brass. I got them in, now I'm just having an issue with getting the bolts on one of the motor mounts to line up. Other than that, it's all back together. Started and ran for a while, no leaks(flushed and all, inside the block was really... Gross and slimy.)

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