Cooling System Upgrade/Replacement

[TheRedMamba]

Yo! A little expertise please! I've recently been dealing with a busted upper radiator hose connection, so I'm needing to replace the entire radiator. Here's my plan....
I went to the boneyard Saturday and scored a super clean 41" radiator out of a 1 ton Sierra, obviously Babygirl came from the factory with a 36" radiator. From what I can see.... It appears it will be a fairly easy swap. Yes I have the factory tow package therefore I have both transmission and oil cooler lines. As far as this swap, has anyone done it or something similar and have any pointers, advice, or instruction? Is anyone able to confirm this swap as valid and doable? Side note, I've done the Big 3 (5) Upgrade, the 4 Hi Upgrade, and also have a House/Secondary Marine Battery installed on the driver side, where the optional secondary factory battery would have been, using the mounting deck from a 2000 2500 which also allowed me to relocate the charcoal recovery canister (not it's technical name) to sit roughly 10" closer to the firewall as opposed to right behind the radiator. I mention these upgrades because they're all located in the vicinity of installing the bigger radiator..... So it's a reference thing Since I'll have her tore apart installing the radiator I've decided to make the right play here, so I'll also be replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat, water pump (developed a small drip, when parked, a couple of days ago), fan clutch ( I understand only silly ****'s wouldn't replace at the same time as a new water pump), and radiator cap. I've added pic's of the replacement parts I plan to use. So please, specifically, if anyone has any experience using the Duralast Water Pump/Fan Clutch Kit HD (see pics) from AutoZone, I'd appreciate any light you can shed on this part and any opinions as well. Obviously any info on the other chosen parts is appreciated as well. The only other question I think I have is... Currently I believe her cooling system operates at 15 lbs. Pressure, do I need to score a 16 lbs. Cap because of the bigger radiator?? As always, you gentlemen are top notch and your knowledge is unmatched! Side Note: I've posted a few other times, mostly electronics shizz, but never added any solutions.... The most important thing I've learned since rescuing Babygirl is this.... Before you start throwing money and parts at your ride, electrical issues especially, start at the beginning of each circuit, pull the harness and all other connections, inspect, depin, clean and reassemble before anything else, after checking fuses of course and please be patient and thorough. Doing this has saved me a ton of money so far. My headlights would randomly shut off from the switch getting to hot, this includes both new replacements, followed my advice... Fixed! Passenger side taillight went dark.... followed my own advice.... Fixed! Dash Lights haven't worked since I got her, oil pressure and temp gauges were intermittent at best, pulled the cluster, cleaned it real well and made sure all the tabs were secure on connections and motors... Go figure.... Fixed! And all exterior/interior lighting is brighter than ever. So ya, do the shizz no one likes doing and don't be afraid to use that local boneyard as an additional Parts Store. At least if you like saving money! Thanks You and Have a Stellar Day! Cheers

 

[TheRedMamba]

BTW.... 1993 GMC Sierra SLE Z71 Extended Cab 4x4 w/5.7L V8, L460E, 4:10 Rear End

 

[Erik the Awful]

Apparently there's a Powerstroke cooling fan that bolts right onto the fan clutch that moves more air than our fans. If you search the forum for it you can probably find a part number.

 

[TheRedMamba]

Apparently there's a Powerstroke cooling fan that bolts right onto the fan clutch that moves more air than our fans. If you search the forum for it you can probably find a part number.

Thank you for the info, I'll look into it today. Cheers

 

[GoToGuy]

The lower support bushings are moved outboard, you will see another set of holes. Is your new radiator the taller big block model? And some big block radiators , the trans cooler fittings are larger than 1/2 ton and 7200 3/4 ton models. It may need an inverted flare adapter. Good idea to check before tearing it apart. ( Been there)

 

[Schurkey]

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HELL, NO!

Overpriced scam. Get a regular thermostat of the correct temp rating.

Have the used radiator checked-out by a radiator shop. Or just buy a new radiator. Last thing you need is to install someone else's corroded, full-of-hidden-scale radiator in your truck.

Consider replacing the serpentine belt, tensioner, heater hoses and the often-corroded quick-coupler on the intake manifold. The Dorman replacement coupler seems to be MUCH better than the Genuine GM quick-coupler. Inspect the parts you have, replace as needed. Pull the block drainplugs (right side may be the knock sensor which must be re-sealed and torqued to a specified tightness, left side is probably a plain iron/steel hex-head plug. I replace those steel plugs with brass 1/4" pipe plugs, or--on my own vehicles--with a 1/4" pipe thread draincock. I use Loctite/Permatex 592 sealer.) Drain ALL the coolant, along with whatever rust is in the bottom of the water jacket. Install a flush 'n' fill kit, flush the cooling system thoroughly. Find the capacity of your cooling system, buy quality CONCENTRATED anti-freeze, (NOT the rip-off "premix 50/50") and install the anti-freeze into the engine FIRST, (1/2 the cooling system capacity reserving a little for the overflow bottle) then top-off with water.

If the overflow bottle is the usual scummy mess, I've removed the bottle, cleaned them with hot water, a little laundry detergent (powerful but doesn't suds-up) and playground sand. Shake the bottle, let the sand scrub the scum from the inside of the recovery bottle.




When I replaced the radiator on my '97, one of the oil cooler pipes was near-impossible to remove. Had to cut the tube, remove the radiator, and then remove the stub from the radiator "on the bench" 'cause I couldn't do it in the vehicle. I put the tube back together with a brass compression fitting. Worked just fine for ~4 years now. I had to replace an O-ring on each of those oil cooler tubes at the radiator.

Note rounding corners on tube nut. This was NO fun to remove. Seems to me I needed a 20mm tube socket.

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Heavily-corroded threads and tube.

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Tube and tube-nut somewhat cleaned-up with wire wheel on bench-grinder.

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Sorry, no photo of the actual brass compression union. Standard hardware-store item in 1/2".

 

[pgutier1]

Apparently there's a Powerstroke cooling fan that bolts right onto the fan clutch that moves more air than our fans. If you search the forum for it you can probably find a part number.

The '97-'99 plastic 11 blade fan is the better upgrade for our trucks with the metal fan. Bolts right on...

 

[TheRedMamba]

You gentlemen are Bad ***.... I started last night removing the hoses, fan cover, and fan. I also removed the bolts from the old water pump that attach the fan and installed them into the new one using orange loctite. All for lines on the radiator for the tranny and oil cooler came out easily. I will post pics and updates as I go. Side Note... I didn't like the feel/look of the AutoZone set up, plus my fan clutch is super solid, as far as, the wobble etc. test. So I went with the Heavy Duty Water Pump from Advance Auto Parts for now. Also I went with the Duralast Gold thermostat 195°, as well as, the Duralast radiator cap with the pressure release lever on top. The used radiator I'm using has been thoroughly cleaned in the inside. This is an unplanned repair that is definitely on a super tight budget. Thanks for the info on the fan, I'll change that out as soon as I'm mobile again and can get to the boneyard! Cheers

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Make sure to get the fan shroud that came with your replacement radiator. I did not read the entire thread so if this was covered ignore.

 

[TheRedMamba]

Although the water pump started leaking when parked, here's the whole reason for the work needing to be done.